Converting to TFP/BBB with leftover granulated chlorine

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DustMagnet

DustMagnet

0
Jun 18, 2015
28
Victoria, BC, Canada
Hi Everybody!

You might know me from the thread, "ImPower motor controller not working according to manual" but probably not because I don't think anyone read that thread. :D

Anyway... we inherited our in-ground plaster pool when we bought this house in 2013 and for the last couple of seasons I have been using 7-way test strips and HTH unstabilized granular chlorine along with the HTH + and - products from Walmart. I have not had trouble clearing the pool in the spring and keeping it clean and clear throughout the season - by sheer luck I suppose.

I plan to switch to the TFP method and I have a TF-100 waiting at a receiver across the border (Canadian, so hoops must be jumped through) that I will pick up tomorrow.

My question is this: Since I have 2/3rd of a pail of HTH unstabilized granular chlorine, can I still use this as part of the process? I think from my reading that using this raises the calcium hardness as that is what the chlorine is bound to in the granules? Can I use PoolMath to calculate how much granulated chlorine I would use instead of bleach/liquid chlorine?

Or is this just going to mess up the TFP process?
 
Wait and see what your new test kit tells you about calcium hardness (CH) in the pool water. Since your pool is plaster, you do have to pay attention to calcium levels.

If it turns out you are low in calcium, then cal hypo could be used, so long as CH doesn't go too high. However, if you've been using this type of chlorination for a while, as you say, chances are that you CH is already on the high side. What does the pail of unstabilized granular chlorine say on the label for chemical content?

I hesitate to ask, but what have your test strips been saying about calcium hardness?
 
Hello "DM" up North! :) If that's the product I think it is, (Cal-Hypo) then yes, some folks will use it with the understanding it may raise their CH (hardness) as well. You might want to look at that carefully first since you have a plaster pool. Also, at the bottom of the TFP calculator Poolmath calculator you can add an item (i.e. Cal-Hypo) and it will tell you the effects it will have on other areas. It's a great tool.
 
DustMagnet said:
Hi Everybody!

You might know me from the thread, "ImPower motor controller not working according to manual" but probably not because I don't think anyone read that thread. :D

?
Click to expand...

I am dazzled that nobody replied to that thread as I just now looked it up and saw that 146 people viewed it. Amazing what gets answered and replied to and what doesn't.
 
Honestly, we've had many discussions about replies. Once we "open" or reply to a thread, it stays on the main page(s) for an hour or two depending upon forum traffic, then it gets totally buried. Most viewers will never see it again. So rather than just reply with a generic "hello", we opt to leave it in the "Unanswered" column in hopes that someone who may be familiar with that specific item can see it and answer appropriately. It's a tough call sometimes because we never want someone to feel like they were overlooked. But at the same time we want the post to be answered constructively with a possible solution. There are a few posts that are still waiting for an "expert" reply.
 
The pail says calcium hypochlorite 47%.

The test strip is showing a color between the 250 and 500 ppm blocks on the container for "Total Hardness", which is marked as the "OK" range.

aquachek-7-way-test-strip-color-chart.jpg


I am eager to see what the TF-100 reveals. (Ordered with the speed-stir because toys.)

- - - Updated - - -

otter86753 said:
I am dazzled that nobody replied to that thread as I just now looked it up and saw that 146 people viewed it. Amazing what gets answered and replied to and what doesn't.
Click to expand...

Well to be honest, that was a pretty specific issue on a specific and less-popular model of pump. ;)
 
That's one of the limitations of strips, not to mention that when you look at the TFP chart Pool School - Recommended Levels it recommends between 250-350. That's tough to find on those strips. I would stay on the low end if at all possible in case you find-out later when your TF-100 arrives that it's actually higher. You can always add to increase CH, but lowering ... not so easy. :)
 
Texas Splash said:
Hello "DM" up North! :) If that's the product I think it is, (Cal-Hypo) then yes, some folks will use it with the understanding it may raise their CH (hardness) as well. You might want to look at that carefully first since you have a plaster pool. Also, at the bottom of the TFP calculator Poolmath calculator you can add an item (i.e. Cal-Hypo) and it will tell you the effects it will have on other areas. It's a great tool.
Click to expand...

Yes, I just saw that the calculator can use cal-hypo - I guess I can choose the 48% selection as close enough?
 

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First TF-100 results:

FC=0.5
CC=0.5
TC=1
CH=300
TA=130 (wiping tip after each drop)
CYA=<20 (can still discern pale grey dot when tube is full)
PH=7.4

So... I guess I don't want to use the rest of my cal-hypo since my CH seems to be right (200-400)?

I guess I'll go get some bleach and CYA tomorrow.

Man do I feel like some sort of scientist dropping drops into the speedstir, checking colours and writing down results. :cool:
 
I would use liquid chlorine as your normal chlorine source. But hang on to the cal-hypo and use it when you have those occasions when you do need to raise the CH level. If you drain for winter closing then you'll probably need to raise the CH when you open next season and you can use the cal-hypo then or after backwashing (if you have to add water).

Now that you have a great test kit you will know when your CH level is low enough to use some of the cal-hypo.
 
Went to Walmart to pick up some cyanuric acid and bleach. Acid yes, bleach... one jug of Clorox with Fibreguard(tm) and three small jugs of Clorox concentrated bleach. Neither had a % on the label. Large empty space where all the Great Value bleach would be. Didn't realize there was such a hot market for the stuff.

I could have bought HTH Liquid Shock - aka 10% bleach - but $5.47 for 4L seemed pricey.

I put the acid in socks in front of the returns and squeezed periodically. Will it still take a week when dispersed that way?
 
Yikes! Is that the only store by you? I don't know about Canada and their rules for labeling and I can't seem to find any info on fibre/fiberguard. You need to get lots of chlorine as a SLAM is probably in your future. Very frustrating for you!

Do you have any big box hardware stores where you are? Every store I visit, I check prices, strength, and freshness of product. Maybe a pool store if you have any by you...

It's been a while since you posted. Do you have any current test results? (Don't test CYA...yes, wait a week).
 
Haven't done a full re-test since the 6th, but we've only been in the pool once since then and it's still clear as a bell. As for big-box stores: Home Depot out here only carries Clorox for $5.99 per 3.78L. Rona Home and Garden lists Old Dutch bleach 5L for $3.49, but I'd have to go check the % solution - the MSDS from the manufacturer's site refers to 1%-4.9%, which is pretty low. Haven't been into the Costco in a bit. Also there is a Dollarama in the area I can go check out. No Lowes out here or other BBS.
 

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