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Thread: When to do initial test

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    When to do initial test

    The pool is filled and we haven't added any chemicals yet. Do we test the water before adding anything? Also, we need to get the PH right before we add any bleach, correct? Can we work on the PH during the day or do we need to wait until evening like with the bleach. Sorry for all the questions. Just want to make sure we're doing things properly.
    5700 gal easy set AGP , 2500 gph intex pump, TF-100.

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    Mod Squad JVTrain's Avatar
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    Re: When to do initial test

    Yes, test the water first after it's circulated with the pump on for at least 30 minutes. Then you'll know what to add. For sure you'll need CYA (stabilizer) because there will be none in fill water. You'll also need bleach/liquid chlorine. You'll need a source of acid like muriatic acid to bring down pH. You may or may not need anything else. Test your water and post the results and we'll get you going.
    Joel - TFP Moderator - Minnesota - **Become a TFP Supporter!** Helpful Links: ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry - SLAM Procedure - Chlorine/CYA Chart
    40x20 Pool: 32K Gallons * Vinyl * Bleach Chlorination * Hayward S270T Sand Filter * Pentair SuperFlo 1 HP * Teledyne/Laars Heater * AquaVac Tigershark * TF-100 w/ SpeedStir
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    Re: When to do initial test

    Welcome! Looking forward to helping you get started the TFP way! You will learn so much here. It is very important to maintain the proper FC (free chlorine) to keep your pool sanitized. The PH is important as well.

    Good luck!
    26,000 IG, pebble tec, flagstone, pentair Triton II TR100 sand filter & VS+SVRS 3hp multi-speed pump, Intellichlor IC-40 SWG, Pentair Booster Cleaner, spillover spa, waterfall, Taylor K-2006 testkit
    [It is better to know how to learn, than to know. - Dr. Seuss[/I]

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    Re: When to do initial test

    PH-7.2
    FC-1
    CC-3
    TA-130?? It looked more pink than red so we weren't real sure. We did it twice and the first time it never looked more than pink after adding more drops.
    5700 gal easy set AGP , 2500 gph intex pump, TF-100.

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    Re: When to do initial test

    CC looks a bit concerning. make sure you get some stabilizer (CYA) in there asap. plug info into pool math and figure out how much CYA is needed to go from 0 to 40. for now get your bleach in there to get your FC up to 3. keep an eye on that CC, you want that to be 0 or 0.5 max.

    don't need to worry about TA right now, and your pH is in range. at the bottom of the range, but with higher TA that will come up from just running the pool.
    Dan
    9,000 gallon in-ground Saltwater pool, plaster, cartridge filer, 1.0 hp pump, Hayward T-15 SWCG, TF-100
    Pool School - Chlorine / CYA Chart; Pool School - Test Kits Compared;

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    Re: When to do initial test

    Concerning that you have a CC of 3 already...was this well water or city water fill? Using pool math select trouble free pool at bottom for setpoint and enter your 5700 gallons at top. Target 30 to 40 for cya and 5 for FC and start adding the amount of CYA and bleach indicated. You can add either anytime...don't know where you read that bleach can only be added at night. You can add anytime.
    18' x 38' Pool, 3' to 8' Depth
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    Mod Squad JVTrain's Avatar
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    Re: When to do initial test

    Looks OK. Not sure where you got that much chlorine (FC and CC) from but some municipal water supplies do have some CC in them. Your new friend is http://www.troublefreepool.com/calc.html. Put in your pool volume on that sheet. Using the sheet, add enough bleach to get to 4-5 ppm FC. Calculate how much CYA you need to get from 0 to 30 ppm. It's a granular product so measure out that weight approximately and put it into a sock. Tie off the sock and hang it in front of a return. Keep the pump running and squeeze the sock occasionally until it all dissolves. Maintain at least 3 ppm of chlorine at all times. Check your pH daily and if it rises above 7.8, again use Pool Math to calculate how much acid is needed. Be sure to input your TA into Pool Math as that will affect pH and how much acid you need to use.
    Joel - TFP Moderator - Minnesota - **Become a TFP Supporter!** Helpful Links: ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry - SLAM Procedure - Chlorine/CYA Chart
    40x20 Pool: 32K Gallons * Vinyl * Bleach Chlorination * Hayward S270T Sand Filter * Pentair SuperFlo 1 HP * Teledyne/Laars Heater * AquaVac Tigershark * TF-100 w/ SpeedStir
    Isolated Spa - 345 Gallons

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    Re: When to do initial test

    Could we have made an error on the test? Once the water becomes clear is it supposed to stay clear before getting the CC reading? We would add drops and it would become clear but then go back to pink super quick.

    - - - Updated - - -

    They just chlorinated our water not long ago.
    5700 gal easy set AGP , 2500 gph intex pump, TF-100.

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    DaninFLA's Avatar
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    Re: When to do initial test

    you stop once you get it to turn clear. then you are done. if you let it sit it will keep turning back to red/pink. you are only worried about the first permanent change.
    Dan
    9,000 gallon in-ground Saltwater pool, plaster, cartridge filer, 1.0 hp pump, Hayward T-15 SWCG, TF-100
    Pool School - Chlorine / CYA Chart; Pool School - Test Kits Compared;

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    Re: When to do initial test

    Sorry I missed your post robertmee. Yes this was a city fill. I've read several things that say the chlorine has to work too hard to fight the sun during the day.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Quote Originally Posted by DaninFLA View Post
    you stop once you get it to turn clear. then you are done. if you let it sit it will keep turning back to red/pink. you are only worried about the first permanent change.
    I think I'll go do it one more time just to be sure
    5700 gal easy set AGP , 2500 gph intex pump, TF-100.

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    DaninFLA's Avatar
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    Re: When to do initial test

    Quote Originally Posted by kmatheson View Post
    I've read several things that say the chlorine has to work too hard to fight the sun during the day.
    that's why you add stabilizer/CYA to your water asap. it helps protect the chlorine and reduces the amount that gets burned off by the sun. The TFP method makes sure your chlorine (FC) is above the minimum needed based on your stabilizer (CYA) level. see the link in my signature.
    Dan
    9,000 gallon in-ground Saltwater pool, plaster, cartridge filer, 1.0 hp pump, Hayward T-15 SWCG, TF-100
    Pool School - Chlorine / CYA Chart; Pool School - Test Kits Compared;

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    Re: When to do initial test

    Quote Originally Posted by kmatheson View Post
    Could we have made an error on the test? Once the water becomes clear is it supposed to stay clear before getting the CC reading? We would add drops and it would become clear but then go back to pink super quick.
    I noticed during my SLAM that my samples would turn pink quickly after becoming clear when CC > FC.

    As DaninFLA mentioned, you're done counting when the sample turns perfectly clear. I usually add one more drop to be sure, then subtract that last drop. Move quickly between the FC and CC test to avoid letting the sample turn too pink. I usually uncap my FC and CC reactants before I start. That way, once I'm done testing FC, I can immediately grab the next bottle and add 5 drops to test for CC.

    Same goes for all the tests: You're done when another drop results in no further color change. It can be difficult to tell at first, but after a week or so you get used to the process.
    25,000 gallon freeform gunnite/plaster, built in the 1970s/80s; Sta-Rite 9463004 575-lb. sand filter; Sta-Rite DuraGlas/Max-E-Glas (P2RA5F-125L) single-speed 1.5 HP pump, manufactured 12/1993 (1M93M).
    Helpful links: TFTestKits; Pool School; ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry; Chlorine/CYA Chart; PoolMath; SLAM - Shock Level And Maintain

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    Re: When to do initial test

    Just retested and it was the same.
    5700 gal easy set AGP , 2500 gph intex pump, TF-100.

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    Re: When to do initial test

    Can someone doublecheck my math to make sure I'm using the calculator properly? I have 34 oz bleach to get to 5 and 23 oz of CYA to get to 30.
    5700 gal easy set AGP , 2500 gph intex pump, TF-100.

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    Mod Squad JVTrain's Avatar
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    Re: When to do initial test

    That looks good as long as your bleach is 8.25%. That's 1/4 of a gallon, just ball park it when you pour. The CYA, try to weigh it on a scale if you have a kitchen scale.
    Joel - TFP Moderator - Minnesota - **Become a TFP Supporter!** Helpful Links: ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry - SLAM Procedure - Chlorine/CYA Chart
    40x20 Pool: 32K Gallons * Vinyl * Bleach Chlorination * Hayward S270T Sand Filter * Pentair SuperFlo 1 HP * Teledyne/Laars Heater * AquaVac Tigershark * TF-100 w/ SpeedStir
    Isolated Spa - 345 Gallons

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    Re: When to do initial test

    8.25 bleach and CYA in the pool! Thanks for all of your help! Do I test again tomorrow or today? Do I do all of the tests again when I test next? Do we leave the pump running?
    5700 gal easy set AGP , 2500 gph intex pump, TF-100.

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    Re: When to do initial test

    Test your chlorine level about 30 minutes after you add it to see if you hit your mark. Don't bother testing for CYA until next week. It takes a while to show up.
    26,000 IG, pebble tec, flagstone, pentair Triton II TR100 sand filter & VS+SVRS 3hp multi-speed pump, Intellichlor IC-40 SWG, Pentair Booster Cleaner, spillover spa, waterfall, Taylor K-2006 testkit
    [It is better to know how to learn, than to know. - Dr. Seuss[/I]

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    Re: When to do initial test

    FC 1.5
    CC 3.5
    5700 gal easy set AGP , 2500 gph intex pump, TF-100.

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    Re: When to do initial test

    I think I've figured out why our CC is so high. Last night our friend that was helping us had way too much to drink and kept throwing the kids into the pool as it was filling. Could this be the problem?
    5700 gal easy set AGP , 2500 gph intex pump, TF-100.

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    Re: When to do initial test

    I think I've figured out why our CC is so high.
    Doubt it. Did you fill with tap water?
    Dave S.
    42k vinyl and concrete pool, 1.5hp pump, 140gpm filter
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