I think its probably about time I add borates to my pool. Question is am I better using borax or boric acid for salt water pool?
Borax or Boric Acid
- Thread starter arieyellow
- Start date
- Jun 22, 2014
- 47,752
- Pool Size
- 17888
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
Well, please keep in mind the difference of the two products. You may wish to read these two pages to help clarify:
Borates - Why and How
Pool School - Recommended Pool Chemicals
Have a nice day!
Borates - Why and How
Pool School - Recommended Pool Chemicals
Have a nice day!
I used boric acid since I didn't want to mess with MA. Funny 'cuz I use MA twice a month to lower my pH rise due to aireation. Lots of folks use DudaDiesel for their chemicals. I just went to the Dollar General and bought Roach/Ant killer. Not sure if that was the best way to go but it works for me.
- May 23, 2015
- 24,381
- Pool Size
- 16000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Salt water has nothing to do with it. Either method works fine; it's a matter of what is convenient and cheapest for you.
So, what you should do is use PoolMath to figure out how much Borax/MA or Boric Acid you will need to raise your pool water from 0 to 50ppm. Then, you can compare the costs for each procedure. In my pool, ordering from Duda Energy (they are no longer called Duda Diesel) online and using boric acid was about $10 cheaper than using Borax (purchased from Walmart) and MA.
Also, you'll want to follow the procedure as outlined in the link in the previous post. The key is to get your pH and TA adjusted to the point where you'd like it to be and then add the borates. If you choose to go the Borax/MA route, then the additions of the chemicals need to be broken up into 2 or 3 batches with a good deal of brushing and agitation in between. If you use boric acid, you can add it to the water all at once by broadcasting it around the pool and then brushing to mix it in.
If you order boric acid, make sure you order the granular product not the fine powdered form. The fine powder will blow all over the place and float on the water surface before mixing. Granular works best.
So, what you should do is use PoolMath to figure out how much Borax/MA or Boric Acid you will need to raise your pool water from 0 to 50ppm. Then, you can compare the costs for each procedure. In my pool, ordering from Duda Energy (they are no longer called Duda Diesel) online and using boric acid was about $10 cheaper than using Borax (purchased from Walmart) and MA.
Also, you'll want to follow the procedure as outlined in the link in the previous post. The key is to get your pH and TA adjusted to the point where you'd like it to be and then add the borates. If you choose to go the Borax/MA route, then the additions of the chemicals need to be broken up into 2 or 3 batches with a good deal of brushing and agitation in between. If you use boric acid, you can add it to the water all at once by broadcasting it around the pool and then brushing to mix it in.
If you order boric acid, make sure you order the granular product not the fine powdered form. The fine powder will blow all over the place and float on the water surface before mixing. Granular works best.
I've been using the Boric Acid route for a couple years now. Get it from Duda Diesel. Why?
Getting the Boric Acid (grandular) is a little more expensive, but it's pretty much a one shot/one shop deal and don't need to use Muratic Acid. I couldn't get enough borax from one store. Needed to run around or have them special order enough. Then you've got all the boxes to throw away. (I'm lazy.)
Good luck with what ever you decide.
Getting the Boric Acid (grandular) is a little more expensive, but it's pretty much a one shot/one shop deal and don't need to use Muratic Acid. I couldn't get enough borax from one store. Needed to run around or have them special order enough. Then you've got all the boxes to throw away. (I'm lazy.)
Good luck with what ever you decide.
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