New Liquidator Install

[BKJ]

Greetings All,

I am a new member to TFP and this is my first post. I have learned a lot from the community just in the few days I have been a member so, thank you all! This is my first year at attempting to use the BBB method. So far so good. Now on to my question.... I was wondering if someone could take a look to see if I have my liquidator installed correctly. In the PIC, the green arrow represents the inlet side, while the red arrow, represents the outlet side. Everything appears to be working but would like an experts opinion. As a side note, I do have a heater and was curious if this will effect the heater in anyway. I thank you in advance!

 

[laprjns]

Generally the input side to the Liquidator comes of the pressure side after the filter, but this shouldn't make a difference. The only other thing that confuses me is the me is the three way valve that appears to be comming off the pressure side of the pump. If you have this valve selected such that it porting flow from the pump to the circuit to the right of the valve then it would seem to that the Liquidator would not get filled. I'm not sure of the purpose for this setup and can't give an opinion if this is OK or not.

The chlorine concentration injected by the Liquidator is low , so it should not have any effects on the water heater or pump.

 

[BKJ]

Hi Laprjns,

Thanks for the feedback. The 3 way valve [off the pump] you are referring too was previously used for a Polaris vacuum. A few years ago, we purchased a Dolphin pool sweep and ditched the Polaris. That valve is always in that position [closed, aka never used]. Are you suggesting that I move the inlet valve to the pipe that sits right in front of the liquidator in the picture? The reason why I chose its current location was because that was the location where the automatic chlorinator was installed. From what I can tell, the Liquidator appears to be working i.e. filling and dispensing. However, within the first 24 hours I got a bunch of the white stuff [salt] in the flow meter, which made the little ball stick. I hope this can be resolved somehow.

V/r,

Bryan

 

[laprjns]

I believe that some puck chlorinators need the additional pressure that tapping before the filter provides. The Liquidator doesn't need that, and although it still would works, the Liquidator water input, being very close to the pump discharge is close to it's output, being right on the pump intake creating a kind of short circuit loop for the chlorine. It looks to me from your picture that there is an unused saddle fitting on the output side of the heater. I would move it there if its available. If you will have to drill another hole then I would just keep it were it is.
Regarding the white stuff, when my tubes where new they where clear, but they soon became opaque Outside of that it's really never been a problem for me, most likely because I have low CH (100 to 140 ppm). I do get salt but only collects at the bottom of the tank.

 

[f3justusc]

I have had my liquidator for about 6 months now and I do not get much "white stuff. It pieces that are hardly noticeable.

 

[BKJ]

@Laprjns, the other saddle fitting you are referring to [return line to the pool] was for the discharge side of the automatic chlorinator. I originally tried to put the inlet side of the Liquidator there but it didn't work [would not fill the tank so, I moved it to its current position]. Once I have confirmation I am good to go, I am going to have the other fitting cut out. It sounds as though I should be all set. Thanks again for all your help.

@F3justusc, thanks for the information.

Final thought ---- do either of you guys know if adding borates [boric acid] will cut down on the salt? I plan to add them for some of their other benefits, however, with all this pool care reading and trying to gain as much knowledge so quickly, I may be mixing some stuff up.
1) more stable pH
2) Algaestatic properties
3) reduced chlorine usage
4) silkier feeling water--less skin and eye irritation
5) clearer, 'sparkling' water