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Thread: First Post - High CYA and Free Chlorine

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    First Post - High CYA and Free Chlorine


    -We've had rain for about 3 weeks (Southern Indiana) so little sun, viturally no pool use and tons of rain water into pool
    -Pump Runs 24/7
    -Sand Filter
    -40K Gallon Pool
    -City Water
    -Backwash and rinse weekly
    -We use chlorine pucks from Dohenys or Kem-Tek pucks from Amazon
    -Use liquid shock (haven't put any in in a couple weeks due to raining)
    -Kem-Tek 60-Percent Concentrated Algaecide from Amazon (havent' put any in for a couple weeks due to raining)
    -Pool visuals look fine except still cleaning up leaves and junk from rain

    Today is first sunny hot day in weeks and I tested the water
    I'm using a Taylor K-2006
    Free Chlorine = 14
    Combined Chlorine = 0
    PH = 7.4
    Total Alkalinity = 120
    CYA = >100 (i tried the diluted method and that only got me to the words "CYA" on the scale)

    First and foremost my concern is whether its safe to swim as is.
    What do i do about the high FC and high CYA. (I say high FC because i thought 5 was high but maybe test strips use a differnt scale)
    It strikes me as odd that that the CC came back at Zero.
    I'm shoked PH and TA was OK.

    Thanks in advance

  2. Back To Top    #2
    Mod Squad Texas Splash's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2014
    South-Central Texas, Marion/San Antonio

    Re: First Post - High CYA and Free Chlorine

    Hello and welcome! You are right on track with the Taylor K-2006. Very good test kit! However I fear you are causing problems with some of the products you are putting in your water. Please refer to TFPs Pool School - Recommended Pool Chemicals for an accurate list of basic products that are relatively cheaper and have next to no side effects on your chemistry. I'm sure that's why your CYA is through the roof. Those products do that - chlorine does not.

    Unfortunately, when CYA goes over 100, the only way to lower it is a partial drain. Drain about 50% or so, refill, then check your CYA again. Only after you get the CYA back to earth (50-60) is it somewhat manageable. The only time we recommend a CYA of 70-80 is if someone uses a SWG for chlorine. I didn't see that in your pool specifications.

    So my recommendation right now - do some drains to lower CYA. Also, please add your pool info to your signature by going to the top of the TFP web page (just under the Pool School button) and select "SETTINGS". On the next page look to the left for a menu bar that says, “MY SETTINGS” and go to "EDIT SIGNATURE" to enter your pool and equipment info there. It will help us later.

    Once your CYA is manageable, then you can start managing all the chemistry as required.

    To answer your last question ... it is safe to swim when the water is clear, FC is between the minimum FC and no higher than the SLAM/Shock level as noted on the Pool School - Chlorine / CYA Chart.

    If you have any more questions, please let us know. Have a great day.
    Pat (a.k.a. Texas Splash) ~ My Pool: Viking Fiberglass; 17,888 Gal; Waterway Supreme 2-sp/2-hp pump; Hayward Ctg filter; TF-100 w/ Speed Stir
    If you enjoyed your TFP experience, please consider donating to Support TFP!

  3. Back To Top    #3
    robdac's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2014
    Weston, FL

    Re: First Post - High CYA and Free Chlorine


    14 FC isn't high if the CYA is above 100. In fact, it's probably why your pool isn't green. It's certainly safe to swim in with a CYA level that high. The real problem is the high CYA. You're about double where you want to be. Unfortunately, the only way to get it down is to replace some of the water. Given all the rain you've had lately it was probably even higher. Chlorine pucks are only going to make things worse so stop using them. Start reading Pool School at the top of the page.
    11K gal IG screened-in plaster pool w/ spa
    pentair 150 cartridge filter, Pentair Intelliflow VS pump,
    Aquarite AQR15 SWG, AquaCal Heatwave Heat Pump, TF-100 test kit

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