Modified Cover for Hayward Super Pump for Closing Swimming Pool

[Catanzaro]

I figured that this may be helpful to some members trying to close their pool this season. Even though I am a newbie, I will definitely be closing my swimming pool this year, and in addition helping a few friends close their own pools.

For about $75, (Does not include Cyclone), you can create one of these modified covers to use for closing the pool. I know that other members have done this before, but I could not find any pictures, part #'s, etc. Have to admit. I broke down and purchased the Cyclone for convenience and portability, other than tinkering around with shop vac's, pancake compressors, etc.

Performed a test run. The multi-port valve was in the "closed" position. Kept the main drain and skimmer(s) opened and turned on the cyclone. The process took a few seconds to build up pressure, but both skimmer tops blew right off. Quickly, I shut down the system not to clear water out of the main drain lines.


The good news is that this set up did not require any type of glue, silicone, etc. There may be some minor air gaps, but I do not see any problem.

Here are the links to what I purchased:

Hayward SP1023, 1023G, 1024, 1025, 1039 Return Fitting Parts

(I used the SP-1023)

1.5 x 1.25in Combo Hose Adapter

(This is the top adapter)

Above Ground Swimming Pool Filter Hose Connectors

(I purchased the 6' hose). It is 1 1/2" hose. The picture looks different. SKU: FC156

The Cyclone, Cover and gasket were from:

Pool Supply Unlimited - We Know Swimming Pools

1069 Air Supply Cyclone Liner Vac 3HP 120V 3-Stage | 41281002
43784 HAYWARD SPX1600D STRAINER COVER CLEAR LEXAN
93707 Gasket Strainer Cover | SPX1600S

 

[Catanzaro]

... The only thing I do not know is how my friend drilled the hole down the center (slightly off center) of the strainer cover. I could find out. It was a perfect cut, with no cracks, etc.

How hole was cut

Drilled a hole through the center, enough to place a small saw and carefully cut out the hole. Then sanded down the plastic for a smoother finish.

 

[JVTrain]

Had not seen this yet until you linked it in another thread. Would be cool to try this on a replacement SuperFlo lid. Although because of the structure of the SuperFlow lid it might be more difficult to get it just right for the fitting to pass through and seal well. I'm trying to winterize myself this year as well. We'll see if my shop vacuum can do it, otherwise it may be a quick order of a cyclone...

Thanks for putting up some pics. Really helps explain it.

 

[Catanzaro]

JVTrain:

The idea came to mind when I saw the PB close my pool last year. In turn, I sent out a few e-mails with my idea, (well not really), and the on line pool suppliers helped me put this together. You need not to worry about getting it just right. It is not a perfect fit, that is with the gaskets, but will get the job done.

I Performed a test run. in July. The multi-port valve was in the "closed" position. Kept the main drains and skimmers open and turned on the cyclone. Takes a few seconds to build up pressure, but both skimmer tops blew right off. Quickly, I shut down the system not to clear water out of the main drain lines. The cyclone is well worth it.

I still have not figured out if I will have the Multi-Port on "Recirculate" or "Filter", not sure. Both will work as I can drain the water out of the filter. I will close the suction side completely off and blow out the returns. Ironically, I have enough pictures of the pool construction that I could probably close off the first 3 returns on each line and blow the water out of the last one only and this should work.

If your cover is not super concaved, then you should have no problem. Cutting a perfect circle requires some tool (which someone did for me).

The circle cut out is exactly 2.5", while the fitting is 2 1/4". I just looked at your cover and the circle may be just that side. They may make a smaller adapter, say 1.5" to 2". The hose is 1. 1/4".

 

[JVTrain]

I've seen some replacement covers that have the sub-structure bracing/bridging on the underside of the lid and some that don't. My current lid does not. If anything depending on what arrives or what I order, I could use the older cover to use as the winterizing cover.

 

[Pool-owner]

Hello: This is very helpful. I am also closing my pool for the first time and also getting a cyclone vac. I can figure everything else but I am still stuck at the "hole" cutting part.

Catanzaro , did your friend use a regular circular steel drill? If not, how else can we drill a circle on it? The cover seems to be made of pretty sturdy material. I am interested in knowing how other members might have used to cut it.

If we don't make this modified-cover, how else can we use the cyclone to blow out the water? Through the skimmer? Or is there an adapter we can get for connecting to the pump drain hole?

Thanks,

 

[Catanzaro]

I do not know how he cut the hole. I will find out for you, but it may take a week or so.

Please take some pictures and send over at the equipment pad.

You could take the black hose and purchase adapters. The hose goes to the blower and on the other end, you can add the adapter. (They must be 90 degree's) as the hose may no be flexible enough. After removing the cover, place the hose in the suction side and then the return side. I believe they are 1 1/2" and 2". If you go to Lowe's or Home Depot, they have 90 degree white PVC bends that may work. Outside of this, if you have unions at the plumping, you can blow out the line through there. Somehow create the adapter.

You could also work from your skimmers (This should be easy for the adapter's). My skimmers can be isolated. So I would blow air from one skimmer through the system and close off the other skimmer, including the main drain. The main drain and other skimmer being closed, multi-port on Recirculate, I believe the air will bypass the sand filter and go straight to the returns. After this you can close off the multi-port and blow out main drain and other skimmer at the same time (of course skimmer first and main drain last).

Please remember to remove all the drain plugs on filter and pump. Would definitely recommend lowering water below the skimmer. I am not comfortable below the returns.

 

[Pool-owner]

Thanks Catanzaro! I think I will work from the skimmers. It seems to be the easiest way. I am ordering a 6-foot pool hose plus a 1/2 adapter for the skimmer hole.

Here is my equipment pad ( See photos) - 2 valves controlling the suction side ( 2 skimmers and the main drain). 3 returns controlled by 1 valve.


Based on some testing (see the other picture) with different valve settings, I conclude the following (hopefully correct) -
(Note: in the chart - port# means where I am pointing it at - so the opposite port is closed. )

- Top Valve (in photo) port 2 controls the skimmer#2 line
- Top Value port 1 is the main line
- Bottom Value controls the skimmer#1 line



So if I follow your plan. I will blow the skimmer#1 line first because it is on an isolated valve (bottom one). I would close top valve completely (put it at "close") so that no air or water would come thru them at all. Set sand filter multi-port to circulate. So air would blow through the lines to the return lines. I will then plug in the return lines one by one, according to the bubbles and air stream.

Then I assume I will see water and then air bubbles coming back out of skimmer#1 (where I am blow it at? Am I right?) Then I should add antifreeze to the line, and plug it immediately with a gizzmo?

Next, I will close skimmer#1 line (by setting bottom value to port 1. I should not "close" it right as closing will block water/air flow.). This way water/air can only come through the top value (through skimmer#2 line and main drain).

Then I will now blow skimmer#2 hole (b/c skimmer#1 already plugged), I expect water/air will come out through the main drain first (b/c returns and skimmer#1 are already plugged)? Wait a few minutes. Then here is what I am confused - I understand that I need to lock the air so that no water can get back to the pipes. How exactly should I do this? Should I set the top valve to port #1 (thereby closing port #2 - the main drain line).

Then at the end, add antifreeze to skimmer#2 hole and plug it with a gizzmo.


Would this plan work? I am mostly concerned about locking the air so that water doesn't get back to the pool lines.

Does this make sense? All advice and comments are welcome. I would rather be called "stupid" than breaking my lines.
I am most unsure about the valve settings. Thanks!

 

[Catanzaro]

What I would recommend is the following:

Blow air out from your skimmer. Close the multi-port so none of the returns are affected. Keep the main drain and skimmers all open. As you are pushing air through the system, probability says that you will remove the water from the other skimmer first (Would recommend you lower water below the skimmer first). Then plug the skimmer with the Gizmo. Next should be your main drain, an it will start bubbling (wait about 45 - 60 seconds), close the valve and create an air lock. Place a black strap so the valve stays closed for the winter. I would recommend working with a second person. Then shut off pump quickly, not to create any back pressure.

After this, turn multiport to either reciruclate or filter. At the pump, I would close off the suction side with a black plug so as air enters the pump housing it goes straight to the return side and then start closing off each return until you get to the last one. Once you are the last one, quickly shut off pump not to build back pressure.

Because I do not know your plumbing, it would be difficult to follow, but this is what I would do from the skimmer, as you probably do not have enough room to create an adapter at the union. Air is going in one direction and will have to come out the other side. Please remember to close the multi-port valve. You may even want to close off the return side with a plug as well.

Do not be concerned about locking all the air in any of the piping. If over 50% of the water is removed and plugged correctly, even if water expanded, you would not have a problem. Water only expands about 9% at most. I know people who do not winterize their sprinkler lines and never run into a problem. You could also suction water out of your skimmer with a wet vac. Lowering the water below the skimmer is a must and will make your life easier.

I have even though about creating extensions on the returns side that lift over the bottom of the skimmer line with a cap. Think about it. All the water would be removed outside the water line beside the main drain. Kind of those extensions that people purchase and place on one return to create a waterfall. As you push air through the system, everything from skimmers and returns would be 100% free of water, besides the main drain.

 

[Kiss4aFrog]

To cut that hole you can pickup a hole saw kit for 10-20 bucks at harbor freight or any big box store. It's main use is for drilling doors for locks and handles but comes in handy for projects like this. If you have a drill press all the better but it can be done with a steady hand.

 

[Catanzaro]

kiss4aFrog:

Nice post! As you read in my post, someone did this for me and with the right tools, should not be that complicated. Recently, I received a brochure from a local pool store (about 15 miles away). Believe it or not, they are somewhat reasonable for a pool store, but I only purchased 12.5% from them and then realized it was degraded (on sale - big deal). Reasonable for a pool store when you are in a hurry, but not for me.

What struck me strange is that they are selling modified covers like this for purchase. No prices, but limited quantities to homeowners. What they are doing is taking the old ones after service calls for pump failures and modifying them, like I have. Hayward should just sell them with holes in them and the adapters and hose are another $10.

Shoot, yesterday I used the Cyclone to unclog the central vacuum hose! Works like a charm. Thanks!

 

[Kiss4aFrog]

Recycling the old covers is a smart move and I'm guessing $$$ in their pocket. I kept my old one for that very reason.
Finally managed to talk my GF into buying a cyclone last year and letting me close the pool. Couldn't' see spending almost $150 each year closing it but was so scared something would go wrong and I'd never hear the end of it. I like to save her money but there is always the danger of something going wrong (I told you so) !!

 

[Catanzaro]

If something goes wrong with a closing, this would have been the same issue with the pool closing company. Except one thing!. The pool company would have blamed you as well. This will be my third season closing my pool. At a rate of $264 with the pool company, or $150 with someone on the side, I am already past breakeven point of around $400. In addition, I have closed my friends pool (3x) and will be doing a few more closings this year. No money taken from friends.

 

[Tomolena]

Great idea! I just found a used TriStar cover for $30 on Amazon. Ordered it today. What is the minimum diameter for the hole I will have to drill?

 

[Catanzaro]

A little bigger than the adapter you are using. I can measure mine tomorrow if you are following same protocol. Are you using a Cyclone as a blower or something else? Are you ordering the same parts as I did? Thanks!

 

[Tomolena]

I bought a Cyclone Blower for last year's closing. In addition to ordering the spare pump cover, I ordered the Hayward SP1023 fitting
Is that the same fitting you used? After posting here, I did more research and it appears that the outer diameter of the threaded part that would go thru the drilled out hole is 2 1/4"
My plan is to use a drill hole bit to make the hole. Hopefully I can find one thats only slightly larger than 2 1/4... say...2 3/8".

 

[Catanzaro]

Tomolena:

Thanks for the measurements as this saves me some time. Be careful when cutting (nice and slow). My friend said he drilled a hole and then used some saw and filed the edges. I actually have an aftermarket that was given to use for the same reason. Today, I am going to Lowes/Home Depot and plumbing store to see if I can find 90* sweeps that attach to the hose and bend in the pump basket. Will work as well. Keep us posted!

Did you close your pool with the Cyclone last year, and if so, how? Considering you have not made the modified cover.

 

[Chemnut]

Not sure why all the bother. Fit your pump with a union that can then be attached to your cyclone. Simple and easy for under $20. Ive made several that fit to my pump union, my ball valves etc.

 

[Tomolena]

Re: Did you close your pool with the Cyclone last year, and if so, how? Considering you have not made the modified cover.

I closed using the Cyclone for the first time last year. Worked beautifully! Worth every penny I spent on the thing in terms of time spent and peace of mind. I disconnected my equipment and blew directly into the pipes from the equipment pad. Half hour start to finish, and my heater, sand filter, and all my plumbing was just short of bone dry.

I had a devil of a time rigging up some adapters to connect the hose to my 1 1/2 pipes. Took me awhile, and my solution included two separate hose adapters and some hose clamps. Along the way I discovered your thread and I realized that you had split the pool closing atom! It allows you to make a single connection using a single adapter and you can blow out everything from the equipment pad.

I have all new equipment and 2" pipes now, so I'm back to the drawing board. I'll post pictures after I put this together.

These are the fittings I have on hand from last year. The black one is what came with the Cyclone. The 3rd one from the left is what I believe you used to screw into your Hayward SP1023 fitting on your modified lid.

 

[Catanzaro]

Hopefully this thread will inspire DIY's to create their own modified cover. The 6' hose (1.5") that attaches to the Cyclone is flexible enough to go into the suction and return port of the pump housing basket, and one can clear out lines this way.

In the end, there is always a place and an adapter that can be used, whether it be from the skimmer, union, or pump basket. The Cyclone is powerful enough where one can work form the skimmers and one of the adapters I purchased fit in the skimmer port and hose. A longer run, but the Cyclone can handle it.