Pressure change in pool filter - Stumped!

Jul 12, 2015
2
Highland, CA
Hi there-

New pool owner here. I have the following setup:

Hayward Pro Grid 48" DE Filter
2HP Hayward Pump w AO Smith Motor (Century Centurion)

Recently, my pool filter pressure regulator is reading 30 psi after about 4-5 hours of use. Upon initial startup, I have pressure reading about 20 psi, which according to my local pool store, is about correct. At 30 psi, my pool vacuum stops working due to the high pressure.

I've checked and done the following:
1) Disassembled grids and cleaned them to make sure that is not the problem.
2) Added the correct amount of DE per the manufacturers instructions.
3) Replaced all seals on the pool pump and the plastic assembly which houses the grids.
4) Checked my vacuum hoses to make sure there are no restriction or diaphram issues. Additionally, I've ran the pool pump and experienced the same issues when disconnecting the vacuum hose.
5) Cleaned all baskets in the pool pump and skimmer.
6) Do not appear to have any physical obstructions in the return or supply lines.
7) After reading 30 psi, if I turn the pool pump off, then turn back on, it will operate at about 20 psi for a short period of time before going back to 30 psi.

What else would cause an increase in pressure if everything else is operating correctly? Any suggestions on what else to check?

Any suggestions would greatly be appreciated.

Carlos.
 
Hi Tim, thanks for the suggestion. My chemistry is likely messed up. I was on vacation for 2 weeks and came back to discover this pressure issue along with a algae filled pool floor. Walls seemed to be okay. Cleaned out grids per above and scrubbed walls and applied Algaecide I hopes that it would clear the pool. Anything else I could check ? What's the typical process for removing algae from a pool ?


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I'm sorry to say that algecide is a preventative treatment, not really intended to "clear" algae.

Read the directions on SLAMing your pool in the How To section of Pool School and follow that procedure completely to the end.



  • CC is 0.5 or lower;
  • You pass an OCLT (ie overnight FC loss test shows a loss of 1.0 ppm or less);
  • The water is clear.

When all three are true, you are done SLAMing and can allow the FC to drift down to normal levels.


To do this you need a FAS-DPD test kit. If you don't have one order a TF100 Test Kit and at least include the XL option. That will give you what you need while you are clearing the pool, and probably enough reagents for a couple of years normal use.

The only other real option for a test kit is a Taylor K-2006. Be careful comparing prices because the K-2006 comes in sizes, designated by a letter. The basic K-2006 has .75oz bottles. You need to get the K-2006-C to get the larger bottles that you want. Even then it is a little short on the reagent & powder for the FAS/DPD test.

The kits sold at the pool store generally won't won't cut it, but be careful pool store employees are known to say “it's the same thing”. Generally it's not!

I also have the SpeedStir and Sample Sizer. They speed testing and accuracy.
 
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