Any emphasize on CSI ?

oldguy70

0
Silver Supporter
Jun 26, 2015
159
Glendale, AZ
I am new wanting to learn and in my mind I have many questions.....any emphasize on CSI ?....as I have a slight positive CSI of .13 should I shoot for a slight negative CSI with the newer plaster?

I have a tendency to balance my water looking at the CSI number I am getting.

I have new plaster from Feb/March this year, I keep high FC because of the high CYA (will drain this winter), I am using about 2 ppm FC daily, my pH drifts up about .2 - .3 ppm daily and adding MA to try to keep pH at 7.4 - 7.6....adding about 2 - 3 lbs of backing soda weekly to keep the TA 75-85

Last Test
FC 14.5
CC 0.0
pH 7.8
TA 85
CH 325
CYA 120
CSI .13
Water Temp 90
 
I see a big problem. If your FC is above 10, your pH reading may be reading falsely high. Look atr the pictures and check out the captions: Accurate pH test during shock levels with R-007?

You might actually be lowering pH and therefore CSI too low which could actually be etching your plaster. At bare minimum shortening its lifespan.

Your CH level is low enough that CSI isn't going to be too much of a worry. When CH heads north 0f 600, then it is a consideration. Your potentially low pH is more of a worry. It can etch plaster and corrode metal components in the filter and heater and possibly in the pop-up controller.

I wouldn't wait to replace water to take CYA down to 90ish at least. Then target FC will be 9 or so and minimum around 7 and you'll know your pH test will be accurate.
 
My philosophy is really very simple and is applicable to 99% of the pools in the US.

Keep your parameters within the guidelines suggested here on TFP and ignore CSI.

You can overthink it a lot more than that if that is interesting but you will lose out on swim time and adult beverage time.
 
I see a big problem. If your FC is above 10, your pH reading may be reading falsely high. Look atr the pictures and check out the captions: Accurate pH test during shock levels with R-007?

I let the FC level get to 10.0 or under for a very brief time to check the pH accurately....then bump the FC, as I have checked FC and know almost to the hour... I know how much FC I am using and when to do the pH test, also how much the pH drifts higher......I am retired and live by the pool.

Also I don't plan to drain for CYA until at least November.....you don't want to be draining pools when it is 110 degrees, I can live with testing/nursing all the time until then.

- - - Updated - - -

My philosophy is really very simple and is applicable to 99% of the pools in the US.

Keep your parameters within the guidelines suggested here on TFP and ignore CSI.

You can overthink it a lot more than that if that is interesting but you will lose out on swim time and adult beverage time.

Thanks, I will do that...
 
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