robertscalchi

Ok this is embarrassing. I am in my third year of being a pool owner and homeowner. I thought the hth oto chlorine/bromine window was supposed to indicate a range like 2-4ppm 3-6 ppm and so on for both chlorine and bromine. So yes i am reading it wrong. No wonder i have beginning algae out breaks every mid season. I ususlly shock if it drops below a ch 2. My cya is a few days out of date as mentioned because i ran out of cya reagent. I am pinching pennies at moment so once i can afford a comprehensive test kit. I will update on SLAM/SHOCK. levels.cc I tried the nylons over the return jet and did catch some material while vaccing. It helped a littlr but not much. I think the deposits on floor are algae becausr the floor felt ever so slightly slippery initially. Then.went away after vacuuming,
 
Should i pull the tri chlor pucks and switch to dichlor bleach? Also does dichlor have any affect on cya? Since i cant get an accurate measurement on the cya for now and dont want to raise the cya too high and am not considering using calcium hypochlorite right now for shock since my calcium hardness is high at 450-500. Can i switch to bleach and not have any ill effects?
 
Should i pull the tri chlor pucks and switch to dichlor bleach? Also does dichlor have any affect on cya? Since i cant get an accurate measurement on the cya for now and dont want to raise the cya too high and am not considering using calcium hypochlorite right now for shock since my calcium hardness is high at 450-500. Can i switch to bleach and not have any ill effects?
I have no idea what "dichlor bleach" is.

You should be using nothing but liquid chlorine (aka bleach) to chlorinate your pool as it will add nothing but chlorine and a very small amount of salt.

Both dichlor & trichlor will lower pH & raise CYA, with dichlor raising CYA the most.

http://www.troublefreepool.com/content/142-how-to-chlorinate-your-pool

You really need to spend some time in pool school, as you have been advised numerous times.

Dom
 
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Ok i got it now and understand the cya tri chlor di chlor relationship. For some reason i was under the impression specifically clorox brand bleach was dichlor, realized now its sodium hypochlorite I never realized the cya implications of using trichlor. I exclusively used pucks on my first season sfter opening to a green pool. Previous owner only left leaf cover on pool over winter welcoming all kinds of organics. I started out my 2nd seasonon the bbb method opening last season thanks to the info on this forum and pool calc and then went to the pucks over last season. Fall i drained to skimmer level to install aquador lid shocked and closed with non chlorine shock but also added 4 pucks for over the winter and opened and up until currently using pucks. So i guess all my little vac to waste drains and winter and summer rain and hose refills have kept my cya at mid range. Lord knows how many bottles of floc and algaecide i have used along with clairfiers over the last 3 years. I say at least 5. Dumping the pucks and their side affects and switching back to bleach bbb method. Cant wait to get the tf100 and see what my cya accurately really is. Now to lower the ch. Which i dont understand is so high when ive only used 1-2 shock packets this season. But i get it now and realize k.i.s.s. and just use bbb method and monitor levels diligently and adjust accordingly. Like a dope i just bought a 25 lb pail of pucks from Leslie's. 2 months ago. I still have about 8-10 pucks left from the 1st 25 lb pail i bought 2 years ago. So im sending the new one back.
 
Good plan yo send the pucks back. Test the CH on your tap water, it might be high. All forms of dry chlorine have CYA or calcium in them. Pucks, shock, powder dichlor or trichlor. Sounds like you've got it all figured out now.
 
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