New to pools / First TF-100 testing

Tex96

0
Jun 21, 2015
4
Lynn Haven, FL
Have owned our pool (and house) for 3 weeks now. A friend shocked it for us after it was green a month ago and believe it's now in pretty good shape. He used his TF-100 to test and balance the pool. Since owning it we've replaced the SWG and added some salt to make the SWG happy (good level) and are still running the pump about 18 hrs a day with the SWG at 20%. Bumped it up to 40% w/some heavy rains for one day as Cl dropped to about 2 ppm. Using a basic test Cl has generally been 3+ppm. Have also added a few cups of acid to bring down the pH from 8-8.2 to a consistent 7.8.

Water has remained clear, but still getting some white cloudiness (remaining algae?) when we brush the pool. Had some brown algae on the sides this morning, but it came off fairly easily with the brush.

Just got our TF-100 and did our first tests this morning.

FC-5, CC-0, TC-5
pH-7.8
CH-825
TA-90
CYA-35

1. For CH test after step 2 & TA after step 3, the color was more pink than red. Just wanted to clarify some sort of shade of red is normal/ok?
2. For CYA test I see why you say this test is subjective. The black dot was nearly gone around 40 or even a bit more-had to stare 1-2 seconds to still see it. But completely gone at 35. At what point do I really need to stop? (maybe a dumb question)
3. Do we need to get the CH down to the recommended 250-400 and if so how? I can read up on this too in the forums.
4. How do we get our CYA up to recommended 60-80 ppm? Again, I can do some reading.
5. Any recommendations for pump/SWG usage?

Thanks in advance!
 
Welcome. You need to get your cya in the 70-80 range for the SWG. Not much you can do about CH but keep your PH on the lower end-7.2 or 3. We'd rather see you run the SWG at a lot higher % for a lot shorter time. Have you passed an OCLT with the SWG off?
 
Could someone elaborate for the OP and me why the higher cya and fc levels for a swg pool. I never fully understood. Is it because the swgs are usually undersized and better to err with more cya protection?

- - - Updated - - -

As for question 4 add stabilizer in a stocking in front of a return or in the skimmer. Stabilizer if you read the label should be 95 to 100% cyanuric acid.

And question 2 make sure you are in bright sun with you back to it for best contrast. Dot should be completely gone.

And #5 I'm interested too...I'm new and I've been running mine at 70% with pump on slow for 8 hours at night. That gives me around 8ppm by morning which holds to 5 by evening.
 
Thank you for the welcome and quick response! Just read up a bit on raising CYA, lowering pH and the OCLT before I replied.

As for the CH you aren't recommending to replace the water which I'm good with, but lower pH instead. Will the lower pH reduce the CH over time or is that what is necessary to 'balance it out' because of the high CH levels?

I used the calculator to determine how much stabilizer to add to raise CYA & muriatic acid to add to lower pH. Looks like using the sock method for granular stabilizer is the way to go and run the pump continuously until it has all dissolved.

I have not done the OCLT so will do that tonight before I add the stabilizer tomorrow and keep the pump on to dissolve it.

The SWG power is tied to the pump power. Once I finish the OCLT & dissolve the stabilizer should I try 12 hrs for the pump along w/the SWG at 60%?
Thanks!
 
Pabeader - thanks. I just opened up the SWG (Intellichlor Electronic Chlorine Generator-IECG) user's guide and glad I did. No on/off switch per se, but I can change Cl production to 0%, thus essentially off.

*Of note, the in the Pool Water Chemistry section, it says: "When using the IECG, the cyanuric acid level should be maintained between 30-50ppm." So based on that my CYA is good. But per the TF100 it should be 60-80ppm.
I wonder why that is and what do I do?
 
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