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Thread: A "no go" start to my SLAM

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    A "no go" start to my SLAM

    My pool has been green since around the third. Our filter broke the morning of, and we had to leave on vacation. Upon returning we, obviously, had a green pool, and we bought a new filter and installed and I ordered the TF-100. I've been running our new filter 24/7 since we put it up because that's the only thing I could do! Received the kit today and just finished testing. I've been lurking and reading everything waiting for my kit (trust me, I read almost every article on pool school - even ones that don't pertain to me!)

    FC: 0
    CC: 0
    TA: 220 (High and I wiped the tip after every drop like the instructions said)
    pH: 8.2
    CYA: 0 No reading?, so I assume zero (I tested twice and almost overflowed the tube waiting to not see the dot)

    According to what my numbers are in pool math I need CYA. So, I'm about to go to the store to get the CYA and I'm going to put it in a sock and begin dissolving it in front of the filter return. Then I guess I'll start the SLAM in the AM assuming it is heading toward a CYA: 30 tomorrow (Because I'm not going to even bother checking it so soon, right?) When I look at pool math, my biggest worry is fixing the wrong things in the wrong order.

    I know everyone is always really helpful and I would appreciate throwing some of that encouragement my way! I'm ready to Take Back My Pool!!
    *********
    18' x 48" Summer Escape AGP, 7600 gallons, SandPRO 50 pool filter/pump, TF-100 test kit, filled from Chicago city water

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    Re: A "no go" start to my SLAM

    Welcome to the forum.

    You are on a remarkably correct track. I really can't add a thing other than to say you are obviously managing your own pool.....that's what we want. Buy plenty of bleach......it will not go to waste.

    Take a pic of your p[ool now if you can.....the difference in a few days will be remarkable.

    Keep posting so we can watch your progress but you have done your homework and you are off to a flying start!
    Dave S.
    42k vinyl and concrete pool, 1.5hp pump, 140gpm filter
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    Re: A "no go" start to my SLAM

    I'm new around these parts but I think you need to get the cya in and drop the ph b4 your start the slam. I'll defer to others with more exp.
    Best Regards, Tom

    18,000 IG, vinyl, TA-60 Triton II Sand filter w/DE, WFE-4 1 HP Pentair pump, Frog 5430 (off-line) feeder, Frog Mineral & Bac Pac (99% Trichoro-s-Triazinetrione), Frog BAM Algae @ open, gas heater, auto cover, k2006

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    Re: A "no go" start to my SLAM

    I'd add acid first, then fumble around putting 30 CYA into the water via sock, then recheck pH and if it's good, jugs away. You won't lose any FC to sunlight after dark, so why not get a head start on killing algae while you wait for the CYA to dissolve?
    16K freeform gunite with spa; Pentair 4000 DE filter; Century Whisperflow 1 HP; Pentair Minimax heater.
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    Re: A "no go" start to my SLAM

    Welcome to TFP! You have done what many others fail to do, your homework, Congrats! I completely agree with Richard...the only thing I would add is that you do not need to worry about the TA. We can fix that down the road.
    39YO 13K gallon former SWAMP/MONEY PIT, concrete bottom/Fiberglass Walls, Ecotech VS pump, Hayward Sand Filter, Dolphin DX5 Plus, Loop-Loc safety cover and YES, I have a TFT-100 test kit!

    Shock Level and Maintain - CL/CYA Chart

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    Re: A "no go" start to my SLAM

    Wonderful first post!

    Problem BUT know what the solution is!

    If you are getting your bleach from Walmart watch for their new way of "tricking" us---------the "cleaning" bleach. It is only 6%! The plain bleach is 8% for the same cost! Get as much as your car can carry LOL

    So how green is green? If you have been reading you KNOW we LOVE pics! Pretty please???

    Kim
    TFP Moderator 33x52 round AG 25,600 gals Sand Filter 1.5hp Pump - 2 Speed, SLAM, Pool School, Recommended Levels, Recommended Chemicals, Pool Math, Chlorine/CYA Chart, TF-100 Test Kit

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    Re: A "no go" start to my SLAM

    Thanks everyone! Bought my stabilizer, but per your advice I will be adjusting the pH first. Next question, I already have the following pH decrease in the pool box and would like to use it. I assume it would be considered dry acid. I've hopefully attached a photo. Also, I'll post photos of the green pool as soon as I return home. uploadfromtaptalk1436574281206.jpg

    *********
    18' x 48" Summer Escape AGP, 7600 gallons, SandPRO 50 pool filter/pump, TF-100 test kit, filled from Chicago city water

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    Richard320's Avatar
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    Re: A "no go" start to my SLAM

    Yes, that's dry acid for poolmath purposes. Use it up since you have it.
    16K freeform gunite with spa; Pentair 4000 DE filter; Century Whisperflow 1 HP; Pentair Minimax heater.
    Troublefree does not mean Maintenancefree. It's like brushing your teeth: You can spend a couple minutes a day and pennies a week or go to the dentist once a year and spend several thousand dollars.
    A pool is like a pet - you have to feed it every day, even the days you don't want to play with it!

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    Re: A "no go" start to my SLAM

    Last night I began... I put the pH decrease (ended up needing the whole bottle), and waited until the sun went down and then went back out and added stabilizer in the sock and tied it to the pool in front of the return. I also added the LC based on the pool math amount. Here are the numbers from 12 hours later (this morning):

    FC: 12.5
    CC: 1
    TA: 200
    pH: 8.2 (bogus that it stayed the same)
    CYA: Not checking yet (still have a significant amount in the sock)

    In two hours, once the sun has been up for a few hours, I'm going to check the chorine and replenish and begin brushing the sides.

    My next question few questions: More pH decrease now or let it ride for a day (I really want to avoid the pool store again)? Also, I know that leaving the cover off will allow the CC to burn off, but considering I have little CYA now should I keep it covered? Our cover is an oversized bubble wrap solar cover that we C-clamp to the pool poles to keep in place.

    Thanks again guys! Also, the green pool photo has been taken and will be posted soon.
    *********
    18' x 48" Summer Escape AGP, 7600 gallons, SandPRO 50 pool filter/pump, TF-100 test kit, filled from Chicago city water

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    Re: A "no go" start to my SLAM

    No need to wait to test the chlorine, keeping it at SLAM level consistently is the key to a successful SLAM. However, PH reading isn't accurate when FC is above 10. So if you fell below that, check your PH before returning to your SLAm FC.
    26' X 52" Intex Ultra Frame. Intex Sand Filter
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    You can lead a horse to (clear) water, but you can't force him to swim in it!

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    Re: A "no go" start to my SLAM

    Quote Originally Posted by klfreeman1 View Post
    Last night I began... I put the pH decrease (ended up needing the whole bottle), and waited until the sun went down and then went back out and added stabilizer in the sock and tied it to the pool in front of the return. I also added the LC based on the pool math amount. Here are the numbers from 12 hours later (this morning):

    FC: 12.5
    CC: 1
    TA: 200
    pH: 8.2 (bogus that it stayed the same)
    CYA: Not checking yet (still have a significant amount in the sock)

    In two hours, once the sun has been up for a few hours, I'm going to check the chorine and replenish and begin brushing the sides.

    My next question few questions: More pH decrease now or let it ride for a day (I really want to avoid the pool store again)? Also, I know that leaving the cover off will allow the CC to burn off, but considering I have little CYA now should I keep it covered? Our cover is an oversized bubble wrap solar cover that we C-clamp to the pool poles to keep in place.

    Thanks again guys! Also, the green pool photo has been taken and will be posted soon.
    A pH reading of 8.2 means is at the top of the chart so you could have been above that and that is why you didn't "see" a decrease even though it occurred. I would add more of the dry acid if you have it or head out for some muriatic acid and add enough to decrease to 7.5 and check half an hour later .... then add more if needed.

    Make sure you squeeze the sock periodically to help disperse the CYA. Once it is dispersed assume that the level is what you targeted even though it isn't reading since it could take a week to show up on the test.

    Then maintain your SLAM level for whatever CYA you targeted and watch the green go away!
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    Re: A "no go" start to my SLAM

    you are all over it..

    1. dont worry about PH now (unless you are below FC 10 right now)
    2. CYA of 30 you need to stay above FC of 12 at all times, so put 15 in poolmath, that way you will always be above fc 12.. whenever it falls down to 12 bring it back up to 15
    3. check FC every hour or as much as you can at least 4 times a day and most 24 you can sleep though if your going to be gone bring it up to 16
    Pool: Intex 16x32 15000 gal, 2 speed 340042, Pentair CC320 Filter, CircuPool SJ45 Salt System, Intermatic PE653RC; Hot Tub: 650 Gal SWG Megachlor
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    Re: A "no go" start to my SLAM

    Thanks so much, I've changed my pool math to calculate for 15 and I'm brushing and checking the FC every two hours. I'll stop stressing over the pH. Here is the pool last night. I'll take another tonight.

    *********
    18' x 48" Summer Escape AGP, 7600 gallons, SandPRO 50 pool filter/pump, TF-100 test kit, filled from Chicago city water

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    Re: A "no go" start to my SLAM

    Someone may disagree with me but I'm going to put it out there. Since you are just beginning I think you should get the muriatic acid and get your pH down to 7.2. Since 8.2 is as high as the test reads it could be significantly higher. You already added some dry acid to try to drop it and didn't come into range yet (under 8.2) so I think you should...go get some muriatic acid...let your FC go below 10 (shouldn't take long with a green pool) and get the pH down to 7.2.

    If I understand correctly when you use dry acid it requires a lot more in volume to move the pH which is why most people seem to use the muriatic acid instead. (My pH usually hangs out between 7.5 and 7.8 so I've never had to use it.)

    Seems like it's best to start off on the right foot. I think having the pH in the proper place also helps the chlorine to be as effective as possible and since you won't be checking it again until after the SLAM I think you should start off knowing exactly where it is.

    Experts, please correct me if I'm wrong on this.

    BTW, I have almost the exact same pool. Mine is the Intex branded one...and very old. lol Looks like you have as much room (meaning none!) in your yard as I do!
    18' x 48" (42" water depth) Intex Metal Frame 6,700 Gallons
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    Re: A "no go" start to my SLAM

    Quote Originally Posted by Beens View Post
    ....
    Experts, please correct me if I'm wrong on this. ...
    The problem is that the FC is above 10 which makes the pH reading suspect, and probably falsely high. Accurate pH test during shock levels with R-007?

    As was stated above, if during one test the FC is below 10, then a pH recheck and adjustment would be good. But letting FC intentionally drop just to mess with pH would cause a loss of momentum in the algae slaughter.
    16K freeform gunite with spa; Pentair 4000 DE filter; Century Whisperflow 1 HP; Pentair Minimax heater.
    Troublefree does not mean Maintenancefree. It's like brushing your teeth: You can spend a couple minutes a day and pennies a week or go to the dentist once a year and spend several thousand dollars.
    A pool is like a pet - you have to feed it every day, even the days you don't want to play with it!

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    Re: A "no go" start to my SLAM

    Ok, there you have it. I only suggested it because the FC 12.5 was reached with the very first chlorine addition aka. beginning of SLAM (before retesting the pH after dry acid addition) so I didn't think there was much algae slaughter momentum to be lost. :P

    So for future, if the FC drops below 10 and OP tests pH as being high, should they add acid to lower and retest pH to see if it's lowered before raising the FC back up to SLAM level (In case it really is still off the charts) or should they just add the acid dose and raise the chlorine back up without making sure the acid got the pH down enough?

    I figure it would be good to know before the time comes...
    18' x 48" (42" water depth) Intex Metal Frame 6,700 Gallons
    Hayward Power-Flo LX 1.0 HP pump
    Hayward Pro Series S166T Sand Filter
    Original Intex Floating Skimmer

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    Re: A "no go" start to my SLAM

    I'm cautiously optimistic now. I can see the green fading around the outer circle of the pool (I assume it's located there mostly due to the current from my return). I haven't dipped below 10.5 with the FC so no stopping to adjust for pH (also no more acid in the pool box!). I've got the 8 CST and the sundown check and then I'm putting it to bed for the night.

    I'm posting a "24 hours in" photo next.
    *********
    18' x 48" Summer Escape AGP, 7600 gallons, SandPRO 50 pool filter/pump, TF-100 test kit, filled from Chicago city water

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    Re: A "no go" start to my SLAM



    *********
    18' x 48" Summer Escape AGP, 7600 gallons, SandPRO 50 pool filter/pump, TF-100 test kit, filled from Chicago city water

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    Re: A "no go" start to my SLAM

    Quote Originally Posted by Beens View Post
    If I understand correctly when you use dry acid it requires a lot more in volume to move the pH which is why most people seem to use the muriatic acid instead. (My pH usually hangs out between 7.5 and 7.8 so I've never had to use it.)
    :
    Experts, please correct me if I'm wrong on this.
    1 cup of full-strength Muriatic Acid (31.45% Hydrochloric Acid) is equivalent to 0.9 cups of dry acid (93.2% sodium bisulfate) or more specifically to 10.76 ounces weight of dry acid. So they are roughly equivalent in volume and intentionally designed in concentration that way. Similarly this is equivalent to 1 cup of 38.5% Sulfuric Acid.

    The reason for using Muriatic Acid is not because of its strength, but because unlike dry acid it does not add sulfates to the water. High levels of sulfates (above 200 ppm, roughly) can be damaging to plaster and concrete surfaces.
    16,000 gallon outdoor in-ground 16'x32' plaster pool; Pentair Intelliflo VF pump; Pentair IntelliTouch i9+3s control system; Jandy CL-340 square foot cartridge filter
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    Mod Squad kimkats's Avatar
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    Re: A "no go" start to my SLAM

    The color is MUCH lighter! Good job!

    If I was reading your post right you said something about your acid in the pool box. Do you have your bleach and muriatic acid in the same box/area/enclosure? If that is so you need to find a new home for the acid. Muriatic acid + bleach=boom!

    Muriatic acid can cause metal to rust so think about that when you are looking for a new home for it.

    Good job getting your pool close to clear!

    Kim
    TFP Moderator 33x52 round AG 25,600 gals Sand Filter 1.5hp Pump - 2 Speed, SLAM, Pool School, Recommended Levels, Recommended Chemicals, Pool Math, Chlorine/CYA Chart, TF-100 Test Kit

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