Finally got my Taylor 2006 Kit - Cloudy Water - Help

[kne]

After over 10 days of waiting, my kit has finally arrived! Hopefully I will have a clear pool in the near future!

A little background - I have a 18'x48" intex SWG. It had been installed for a month with no problems, no chemicals had ever been added. Left out of town on a hot weekend, forgot to have the pumps run, came home to a dark green pool. I have managed to get the green gone, and most of the milkiness gone, but it is still somewhat cloudy.

What tests should I start with? (This kit is somewhat overwhelming)

 

[Pogueld]

Congratulations on getting a good test kit! It is a great investment. Really to start with you should run all of the tests. Just follow the directions on the lid of the test or there are also videos you can watch. We need to know the following:

FC
CC
PH
CYA

TA and CH are not as important right now, but if it was me, I would go ahead and do them.

Most likely if nothing has ever been added, you don't have any. CYA, or stabilizer, and therefore your chlorine isn't holding. Post the numbers and we will help you step my step.


[emoji176] Lisa P.
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[JVTrain]

If you have not added any stabilizer or solid chlorine products, you can assume your CYA is 0. No use testing and wasting the limited CYA reagent with that kit.

Your pool is small enough that a drain/refill before doing anything might be an option, but California right now... that may not be the most responsible thing.

You'll need to Pool School - SLAM - Shock Level And Maintain for sure. Read through that and ask questions if you don't understand the process.

 

[kne]

Since it's turned green, I have added stuff to get it ungreen and then some other stuff.. Muriatic acid, bleach, stabilizer, etc. I went a little crazy when I found the pool math page.

Luckily we are on a well and as of now the water is free , however I prefer to not drain it. We will be moving the pool in about a month, so I don't want to waste more water then I have to. I would like to float in it until then though. I will post readings when I get home tonight.

 

[kne]

Ok - A couple youtube videos and the extended test kit directions. I think I got it

FC - 2.4
CC .6
PH 8 - brightest pink
CYA 0
TA 460
CH 700

 

[pooldv]

PH needs to be 7.2 to 7.8 at all times
When did you add stabilizer? Was it in a sock? It takes up to a week to fully dissolve and register on the test. So assume that however many ppm you added is in there.
TA of 460 is possible but it is amazingly high and will cause your PH to go up every day, the action of adding muriatic acid to lower PH to 7.2 will slowly lower TA. You can lower it more aggressively following this, Pool School - Lower Total Alkalinity.

Chlorine needs to be maintained based on CYA level and the Chlorine CYA Chart. Keep it at target at all times and never let it drop to minimum to keep your pool sanitized and algae free.

Some light reading and stuff to print out
Pool School - ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry
Pool School - Recommended Levels
Pool School - Recommended Pool Chemicals
Pool School - PoolMath

 

[kne]

I haven't added anything for at least a week to the pool.

I've added M acid thus morning to start reducing the ph/ta, will take new readings when I get home in couple hours.

I've been running the swg for 6 hours in the morning and the filter for about 7. Is this adequate?

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[Texas Splash]

Okay, so you're about ready to officially start your SLAM right? So here's your checklist:
- PH down to 7.2-7.5
- CYA in-progress? (sock soaking stabilizer with a goal of 30 ppm?)

When you start the SLAM, turn your SWG off or down to about 25%. Save the salt and life of your unit. You will SLAM primarily with regular liquid bleach only. The Pool School - Chlorine / CYA Chart shows that for a CYA of 30, your SLAM FC should be "12", so that's your goal. Add enough bleach per the Poolmath calculator to keep your FC at 12 at ALL times until you pass the 3 SLAM criteria of:
1. Water is clear
2. You do not lose any more than 1ppm of FC overnight (that's the OCLT)
3. CC (Combined Chlorine) is <.5
** You MUST meet ALL 3 items above to properly do a SLAM. Simply “spiking" the FC higher than normal isn't SLAMming, therefore there’s a good chance your algae will return.

At the same time, continue to run your pump 24/7. Remove any “muck” and debris, scrub all parts of your pool to expose any algae, and vacuum/clean (or backwash) filter as necessary. You may have to do this several times. It's a lot of babysitting, but with patience and consistency, you will succeed. Good luck!

 

[pooldv]

I've been running the swg for 6 hours in the morning and the filter for about 7. Is this adequate?

Run the SWG long enough to make enough chlorine to stay at or above target level at all times. Chlorine needs to be maintained based on CYA level and the*Chlorine CYA Chart. Keep it at target at all times and never let it drop to minimum to keep your pool sanitized and algae free. Run the filter as long as needed to make chlorine and also keep the pool free of debris.