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Thread: CYA test results inconclusive

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    CYA test results inconclusive

    Hi everyone- I have the Taylor K-2006 test kit and below are my results. My understanding for the CYA is that the solution is supposed to get cloudy and the dot in the test vile is supposed to disappear when you pour the solution into it, thus getting the ppm results. For some reason my solution never got cloudy and when poured into the vile supplied by Taylor the black dot did not disappear. Does anyone know what this means?? The water was crystal clear when emptied into the vile.

    FC: 1.4
    CC: 0.2
    PH: 8.0
    TA: 100
    CH: 110
    CYA: inconclusive
    40k gal, IG gunite, Pentair Sand filter, hayward superpump, K-2006 Test kit. Hayward T15 40k SWG.

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    Pool Tool's Avatar
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    Re: CYA test results inconclusive

    Yes, once you mix the reagent with your pool water it should cloud and block the dot. It likely means you have 0 CYA. Have you added stabilizer or pucks recently?
    16' x 32' (21100 gal), vinyl, 1.5 hp Hayward SuperPump,
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    Re: CYA test results inconclusive

    The test result isn't inconclusive, it is telling you that you have low or zero CYA (lower than the lowest reading marked on the tube anyway).
    18' x 48" ring top pool (Summer Escapes); 5500 gallons; set up June - October, stored during winter; Intex 2500 gph pump (B size cartridge filter) Hayward 21" sand filter + 1.5 hp single speed Powerflo Matrix pump (upgrade October 2016) *** K-2006 test kit, refills from tftestkits

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    Re: CYA test results inconclusive

    The CYA test is backwards of what you would think When the dot never disapears it meens you have no CYA

    CYA: 0 with 0 CYA your FC will get used fast during the day..

    Your PH is high, try to bring it down...

    I just saw you have a T15 40k SWG, is your 60K gallon water correct or is it liter? If 60K gallon your t15 cell will probably not be able to keep up with fc, you may have to add liquid chlorine/bleach to supplement.. You could try to bring your TA down to 70 and see if your ph will stay at 7.7 or 7.8

    - - - Updated - - -

    also, with a SWG your CYA should be at 70 or 80, I would shoot for 70 to start
    Pool: Intex 16x32 15000 gal, 2 speed 340042, Pentair CC320 Filter, CircuPool SJ45 Salt System, Intermatic PE653RC; Hot Tub: 650 Gal SWG Megachlor
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    Re: CYA test results inconclusive

    Quote Originally Posted by cowboycasey View Post
    The CYA test is backwards of what you would think When the dot never disapears it meens you have no CYA

    CYA: 0 with 0 CYA your FC will get used fast during the day..

    Your PH is high, try to bring it down...

    I just saw you have a T15 40k SWG, is your 60K gallon water correct or is it liter? If 60K gallon your t15 cell will probably not be able to keep up with fc, you may have to add liquid chlorine/bleach to supplement.. You could try to bring your TA down to 70 and see if your ph will stay at 7.7 or 7.8

    - - - Updated - - -

    also, with a SWG your CYA should be at 70 or 80, I would shoot for 70 to start

    Hmm, so it looks like I have 0 CYA than. I opened up my pool in late May and the only chemicals I add on a weekly and biweekly basis is liquid chlorine to bring up FC and muatric acid to bring down PH. I bought a bucket of Calcium Chloride right now for 25 bucks which will increase the CH by about 50 ppm, not much but better than nothing.What do I need to add to bring up the CYA? Its a salt water pool, approximately 60,000 gallons.
    40k gal, IG gunite, Pentair Sand filter, hayward superpump, K-2006 Test kit. Hayward T15 40k SWG.

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    zimm's Avatar
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    Re: CYA test results inconclusive

    You need CYA - Cyanuric Acid. Pool School - ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry
    Basically CYA is sun screen for your chlorine. Too much can be bad as the chlorine can't do it's job, but you need some in there.

    Recommended levels are 60-70 for salt water pools. With 60k gallons, you're looking at 481oz! It comes in 4b bottles of granules. You can fit about 2 pounds in a sock, tie it closed and hang or rest in front of your skimmer. Every day massage the sock so the CYA flows- it's makes a big white cloud. It takes several days to dissolve, so give it a week to test for CYA before you add more. I'd go 4 pounds and see how much it raises your CYA.

    You can buy it at walmart Clorox Pool and Spa Chlorine Stabilizer, 4 lbs - Walmart.com
    45'x12' 17k gal, IG plaster, Pool Pilot Nano+ SWG, 1/2hp Whisperflo pump, PAC-FAB TA-60D sand filter, Raypak 266 heater
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    Mod Squad tim5055's Avatar
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    Re: CYA test results inconclusive

    Pick up CYA where you can, Big Box stores it they have it in Canada or the pool store if you must. A hair over 300 ounces will take you to 40 and a little over 550 ounces is 70.

    Add it in at least two stages, testing and verifying the new level before you add more. You do not want to add to much.

    CYA should be placed in a tight weave sock so it doesn't spill out and hung in the water in front of a return. Once the sock is empty (give it a squeeze every once in a while to speed up dissolving) wait one week to test to see what level has been obtained.
    TFP Moderator 39 X 18 23,000(ish) freeform gunite; built 2007ish; Pentair Triton II TR100 600lb Sand filter; 2 HP Pentair pump with 2.2 HP AO Smith single speed motor; 2 skimmers, 1 main drain, 4 returns w/waterfall, Stenner 45MHP2 3GPD running@ 60% - 15 gal Tank; heated by the sun CYA 200+ when I started - 50 now. Dolphin Supreme M5 Pool Cleaner. Hot Springs SX Spa, 285 gallon

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    Re: CYA test results inconclusive

    Please make sure about the gallons vs. liters issue before adding the CYA. You don't want to overdose by a factor of almost 4.
    18' x 48" ring top pool (Summer Escapes); 5500 gallons; set up June - October, stored during winter; Intex 2500 gph pump (B size cartridge filter) Hayward 21" sand filter + 1.5 hp single speed Powerflo Matrix pump (upgrade October 2016) *** K-2006 test kit, refills from tftestkits

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    Re: CYA test results inconclusive

    Quote Originally Posted by singingpond View Post
    Please make sure about the gallons vs. liters issue before adding the CYA. You don't want to overdose by a factor of almost 4.
    It should be 150,000 Liters so its just about 40,000 gal. I dont know the exact measurement of the pool nor the capacity since its not rectangular all the way around and the previous owners left no literature.

    When I went to the store to buy the Calcium Chloride the lady said that unless the pool is brand new or just refinished there is no point of bringing up the CH level, any thoughts on this? I dug around on the site and it does not seem like good advice to ignore the CH levels.
    40k gal, IG gunite, Pentair Sand filter, hayward superpump, K-2006 Test kit. Hayward T15 40k SWG.

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    Mod Squad tim5055's Avatar
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    Re: CYA test results inconclusive

    Quote Originally Posted by cookstar View Post
    When I went to the store to buy the Calcium Chloride the lady said that unless the pool is brand new or just refinished there is no point of bringing up the CH level, any thoughts on this? I dug around on the site and it does not seem like good advice to ignore the CH levels.
    She is wrong. Strange, because she could have made a sale. Yes, you want the CH between 250 & 350.

    Check out the Recommended Levels Chart
    TFP Moderator 39 X 18 23,000(ish) freeform gunite; built 2007ish; Pentair Triton II TR100 600lb Sand filter; 2 HP Pentair pump with 2.2 HP AO Smith single speed motor; 2 skimmers, 1 main drain, 4 returns w/waterfall, Stenner 45MHP2 3GPD running@ 60% - 15 gal Tank; heated by the sun CYA 200+ when I started - 50 now. Dolphin Supreme M5 Pool Cleaner. Hot Springs SX Spa, 285 gallon

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    Re: CYA test results inconclusive

    You have a gunite/plaster pool. Of course you need calcium in it because saturating the water with calcium carbonate is how you prevent calcium carbonate from dissolving from the gunite/plaster surface.

    What they seem to be saying is that calcium is only needed in a freshly plastered pool but after the plaster has hardened there is no need for calcium. That is ridiculous. It may not happen quickly unless the pH is low, but calcium carbonate will dissolve from plaster over time if the water is not close to saturation with calcium carbonate. See this post that refers to some experiments that indicate that you would slowly degrade the plaster surface over years if you were to have a low Calcite Saturation Index, such as by not having much CH in the water.

    Now in your case you don't have zero or extremely low CH so with 110 ppm CH you'd have to have your pH down at 7.4 and TA down at 70 ppm or so for your CSI to get below -0.6 where the experiments showed CH rising in the pool water which meant the calcium carbonate was dissolving from the plaster. So it's not a disastrous situation needing any sort of immediate attention in your case, but nevertheless the pool store is wrong in asserting that calcium isn't needed except for new plaster.
    16,000 gallon outdoor in-ground 16'x32' plaster pool; Pentair Intelliflo VF pump; Pentair IntelliTouch i9+3s control system; Jandy CL-340 square foot cartridge filter
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