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ateam

ateam

0
Jul 8, 2015
43
San Antonio, TX
Pool Size
15000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Liquid Chlorine
Howdy everyone! New to pool ownership as well as to TFP. Been learning a lot looking around, starting to experiment with using bleach now as it seems my CYA levels are creeping up.

I've seen a couple people mention they run higher CYA levels in hot/sunny areas. Is this recommended? I'm in South Texas, so we are as hot and sunny as just about anyone.
 
Welcome to TFP!!:handwave:

When you say creeping up, how high? Do you do your own testing or pool store?

Yes, in sunny/hot climates with full sun on the pool higher CYA levels are often called for. Do you have a feel for your FC consumption per day?
 
tim5055 said:
Welcome to TFP!!:handwave:

When you say creeping up, how high? Do you do your own testing or pool store?

Yes, in sunny/hot climates with full sun on the pool higher CYA levels are often called for. Do you have a feel for your FC consumption per day?
Click to expand...



I've been doing a combination of my own testing and the pool store, but mostly my own.

I currently have one of the very basic tests kits with the chlorine/PH/Acid demand/TA measurements as well as some dip sticks that measure mostly the same things along with CYA. As I'm sure you know the dip sticks are pretty hard to get accurate results so that's why I'm actually kicking around the idea of purchasing a TF-100 test kit based on all the recommendations.

Based on the dip sticks I'm guessing that I'm in the 80ish range on CYA. I have a relatively new plaster pool with a waterfall from the spa to the pool so I am adding MA on about a weekly basis to keep the PH at around 7.5. My TA is usually in the 100-120 range. I had been using pucks for Chlorine, but I started the switch to bleach last night.

With my current test kit I think it would be a little hard to get an accurate daily drop on my chlorine, but since I just switched to bleach last night I was planning to test tonight and see what I can guess. I was down low enough on Chlorine at the end of the day yesterday that I was barely pale yellow on the chlorine test, I'm guessing around 0.5. So I added enough bleach (based on the pool math) to get me up to just over 7.

Hope that answers all your questions, Thanks for helping out!
 
Hello Ateam! Welcome to the neighborhood. Yes, it is hot here in our area, but thankfully so far, not as bad as past years. Still, CYA is important to watch. I keep mine around 50 +/- 10 or so. Once it gets over 80, you are in dangerous territory my friend. Most of that high CYA comes from pucks, tablets, and those pool store "bags-o'shock". Not good. Eventually, the only way to reduce it is by partial drains, so stick with regular bleach only from now on. Definitely get that TF-100. You'll love it, and the accuracy will save you $$ later.
 
Test strips are wildly inaccurate, so if they are showing around 80 you could actually be anywhere from 0 to several hundred. They are that bad.

I would say order a TF100 test kit. That will probably give you enough reagents for a couple of years normal use.

The only other real option for a test kit is a Taylor K-2006. Be careful comparing prices because the K-2006 comes in sizes, designated by a letter. The basic K-2006 has .75oz bottles. You need to get the K-2006-C to get the larger bottles that you want. Even then it is a little short on the reagent & powder for the FAS/DPD test.

I also have the SpeedStir and Sample Sizer. They speed testing and accuracy.
 
The water is clear, but I have noticed the stuff in my skimmer and the bag on my cleaner has a little bit of an odor to it. Not sure if that is normal or not because I'm assuming the odor is coming from the dog hair. I have 2 Golden Retrievers so dog hair is a constant battle. One of them just loves going for a swim and then rolling in the mud and then going for a swim again...

I also noticed that the water in my skimmer sometimes has a little film. I think based on what I've been reading here I have been running my chlorine levels way too low. I had been following the "ideal" marks on my basic test kit without realizing that was a huge mistake.

I started using the bleach the last 2 nights and been trying to push my chlorine levels up to 7-10 as best I can tell with my current test kits. I'm not sure if it's just my imagination or not, but I feel like the water "shines" more than it used to. It's always been clear, but it just seems to have a little more pop now.
 

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ateam said:
I think based on what I've been reading here I have been running my chlorine levels way too low. I had been following the "ideal" marks on my basic test kit without realizing that was a huge mistake.
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HOWDY! and Welcome. This was a major lightbulb for me - at first I was trying to target the mid to lower range of the recommended chlorine level, but soon realized I should balance the pool to the upper limit, so that as chlorine was consumed, by the time I got back to testing & adjusting the next day, I still had an acceptable level of FC in the pool. I lose about 2ppm chlorine at 40 CYA in 24 hours with full-sun & I'm 15-minutes NE of you, if you're San Antonio proper.

The TF-100 is the key - you'll be so pleased with your pool once you get it set. BTW - in our area best bleach for your buck is a tie between HEB Bravo Regular, Wal-Mart Great Value (both 8.25%) and Lowe's Kemek (10%). They're all coming in at $0.29 / oz of chlorine. I tend to hit HEB because it's easier to get to & is fresher.

Gig 'Em!
 
I've had plenty of lightbulb moments going through all the info on here. So glad I found you guys before I started falling into the pool store trap. It wasn't hard to figure out that the kid working the counter at the pool store closest to me wasn't going to be any help.

I kind of feel guilty now when I walk in there and see people with their arms full of bags of shock. You can't save everyone I guess...

Just got a notice from UPS that my TF-100 should be here on Tuesday. Also, there is a Sam's less than a mile from my house that sells bleach for just under $0.26 / oz. i need to check the costco to see if the price is any better. It's pretty clear that I'm going to need a lot of it.
 
oh, wait... I was just checking my math and I think I was off a little. The bleach is only .025 per ounce, but I guess I need to multiply that by the concentration for an accurate comparison of different types of bleach.

Check my math:
Sam's - 3x 121 oz bottles of 8.25% bleach for $9.39 = $0.31 per oz of chlorine
Leslies - 4x 128 oz bottles of 10% bleach for $16.99 = $0.33 per oz of chlorine

I think I'm doing it right now.
 
You can use the Bleach Price Calculator.

But, I don't know if it takes into consideration that there is a difference in how the percentages are calculated between bleach (8.25% and below) and Chlorinating liquid (generally 10 & 12.5%). Chem Geek says it best

chem geek said:
Chlorinating liquid is normally in Trade % which is a VOLUME % of Available Chlorine. Bleach is normally in WEIGHT % of sodium hypochlorite. 8.25% of bleach is equivalent to 8.64 Trade %. Just note that your 10% source may not be exactly 10%. They usually ship it higher since it will degrade so depending on how fresh it is you could find it higher or lower than 10%. The 8.25% bleach will degrade somewhat more slowly since the degradation rate is roughly proportional to the square of the concentration.
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I have a question about vacuuming. I've never done it, and I'm not sure how or why I would. I normally brush off all my steps and then the pentair racer seems to keep the bottom clean. I have kind of a dark plaster/pebble finish so I think its a little harder to see any dirt on the bottom than it would be with a lighter finish.

Am I missing out on an important maintenance step?
 
ateam said:
I have a question about vacuuming.

Am I missing out on an important maintenance step?
Click to expand...

Vacuuming is not a regular maintenance step unless you are accumulating debris that your pool sweep isn't picking up. What IS a normal maintenance step is brushing the pool. This helps dislodge any algae in the nooks and crannies of plaster and prevents biofilm formation. Circulation flow goes to zero at pool walls and floors and in particular the rougher surface of plaster has plenty of spaces where algae can hide out from chlorine in the water. Brushing forces chlorine into those surfaces and also physically disrupts anything stuck to that plaster.
 
What a great post above. Chem geeks explanation of the importance of brushing should be mandatory reading for all the gunite pool owners on the forum.

BTW, Gig 'em! (sort of). My son graduated in 2015, 4 years in the Corps, commissioned into the Air Force and hopefully on his way to a distinguished military career. The Corps and A&M prepared him for that about as well as it can be done. I didn't go there but he says I can do "gig 'em" in a provisional manner.
 
duraleigh said:
What a great post above. Chem geeks explanation of the importance of brushing should be mandatory reading for all the gunite pool owners on the forum.

BTW, Gig 'em! (sort of). My son graduated in 2015, 4 years in the Corps, commissioned into the Air Force and hopefully on his way to a distinguished military career. The Corps and A&M prepared him for that about as well as it can be done. I didn't go there but he says I can do "gig 'em" in a provisional manner.
Click to expand...

This is a good reminder about brushing. I knew it was important during new plaster startup and was diligent in doing it once a week for several few months after....however, I became more lazy over time. I need to get back to brushing the walls regularly even though the pool is clear and never any CC levels.

While on this topic, I have been reading mixed responses in regards to using a stainless steel or nylon brush on Quartz plaster (specifically Wet Edge Luna Quartz in my case). My pool builder provided a stainless brush but I have read many places stating nylon should only be used on plaster. I switched to nylon but it just feels like it isn't doing anything because it is too soft. Would quartz or pebble finishes be the exception where stainless steel brushes are acceptable?
 

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