Tested and ready, which chemicals first?

[ekuldog]

Hi all, I appreciate the information here. I'm a new convert and received my TF-100 test kit this week. Ready to cancel the pool service company after watching them ignore my SWG and salt levels and keep dumping in shock and tri-chlor pucks every week.

Here are my test numbers....

Yesterday 7/6 Today 7/7 (NOTE: pool tech came this morning 7/7 to add all their junk)
FC 1.5 FC 13.5
CC <=0.5 CC <= 0.5
pH >8.0* pH ~8.2* *Off the chart lines, but I'm estimating by the color shade
CH 200 CH 275
TA 135 TA 125
CYA 50 CYA 50
Salt 2200 Salt 2200
Temp 88.0 Temp 87.0

I have my results plugged into PoolMath, but what's the correct order for my situation? I have also taken the 'Water Balance for SWG's' article into account. But what do I attack first and what time frames? I've gathered different posts from others but wanted to ask for myself. Here are my specific questions.

1) After looking at this, what's the first thing I need to address? The pH, the TA, the CYA, the salt levels?? I'm assuming the high pH is most urgent.

2) Should I pull the tri-chlor floater out immediately and start anew with the salt and SWG only? I am not sure the T-15 cell is clean right now and the Aquarite control board may need some re-setting or repairs.

3) Once I get rid of the pool service, what equipment should I clean and check out first? Or is the simple answer "all of it"?

I appreciate in advance the expert tips!

 

[jaduck]

Welcome to TFP! First off I would tell the pool tech to take a long vacation. I think you will be able to handle your pool better than him anyway. I don't see any results??? We need results for cya, pH, CH, TA, FC and CC.

We really need results that are obtained after the pool guy added his stuff.

- - - Updated - - -

What does the water look like? Is it crystal clear?

 

[pooldv]

Lower PH to 7.4 or so, it might take a couple of tries if you are off the scale. Add salt if your SWG says it is low and it isn't making chlorine, probably up to 3400 or so.. TA will lower on its own. I'd leave CH alone for a while. Bump cya up 20 or so. And swim.

 

[jaduck]

I agree with pooldv 100%, if your water is clear...if not then we can make some additional suggestions.

 

[ekuldog]

Water is clear and doesn't seem to be an issue right now. The high PH is where I thought I'd start too. And I need salt, the test strips say 2200 but the Aquarite doesn't. Think it needs some work and maybe I'll check the cell to see if its dirty. The other issue is the scaling, leeching, mineral build up that the tiles, stones, and grout have. This is a new house for me but the pool is 14 yrs old and it obviously hasn't been maintained properly in a while. Any suggestions on that? Muriatic Acid and start scrubbing?

EDIT: Also, have been having to remove some algae build up in some of the grout lines along waterline. Mostly shaded spots (black algae perhaps?)

 

[domct203]

Definatly need to get your pH inline. Just remember that pH readings are not reliable when your FC is 10ppm or above.

Dom

 

[Pogueld]

Welcome! You've come to the right place! If I understand your chart correctly, the PH was 8, but 8.2 after the FC was increased from the pool guy's visit. When using pool math, I would use the 8 number and not the 8.2 since the PH is inaccurate with FC above 10. Use pool math to lower your PH from 8 to 7.2 with muratic acid.

Then over time your PH will rise and you will lower it again. This lowering will also lower your TA. Since your TA is high, your PH is likely to rise quickly.

If you plan to use your SWG, then you'll also want to bring your CYA up to 70 or 80. HOWEVER, before you do this, I would do an OCLT or overnight chlorine loss test to be sure your pool can hold the FC over night with a loss of 1 or less. If it can't, then you will need to SLAM, especially
Since you see some algae growth. If you need to SLAM, you'll want to CYA to be lower to save on bleach usage.

I love my SWG, but you'll want to make sure it is working correctly before you depend on it. It will save you time and give you piece of mind.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[ekuldog]

Welcome! You've come to the right place! If I understand your chart correctly, the PH was 8, but 8.2 after the FC was increased from the pool guy's visit. When using pool math, I would use the 8 number and not the 8.2 since the PH is inaccurate with FC above 10. Use pool math to lower your PH from 8 to 7.2 with muratic acid.

Then over time your PH will rise and you will lower it again. This lowering will also lower your TA. Since your TA is high, your PH is likely to rise quickly.

If you plan to use your SWG, then you'll also want to bring your CYA up to 70 or 80. HOWEVER, before you do this, I would do an OCLT or overnight chlorine loss test to be sure your pool can hold the FC over night with a loss of 1 or less. If it can't, then you will need to SLAM, especially
Since you see some algae growth. If you need to SLAM, you'll want to CYA to be lower to save on bleach usage.

I love my SWG, but you'll want to make sure it is working correctly before you depend on it. It will save you time and give you piece of mind.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yes, but again, I'm estimating since the only test for PH is the vial line that goes to 8.0. It was definitely at least 8.0 yesterday (before pool guy) and perhaps a little above. I'm new at this, and I'm not sure about my vision and accuracy with the color shading. After today, it was definitely above that level. So should I go to PoolMath with a current PH of 8.0? Or wait to test again once FC goes down a bit? Is there no other way to accurately test the PH exactly?

 

[pooldv]

Yes, enter 8.0 in poolmath and 7.2 target and add that. FC will be under 10 in a day or two, test again when it is.

 

[Pogueld]

It's better to under shoot than get your PH too low. It won't take too long for the FC to comedown below 10.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[ekuldog]

Thanks all. Can I just confirm the following steps then?
-Adjust PH down to 7.2, aerate, when it comes up again, adjust down again, aerate, repeat. TA should come down as well.
-Go ahead and add salt and get SWG working.
-Wait on the CYA bump up until I get the PH down and test overnight for FC loss.
Sound right??

 

[jaduck]

Thanks all. Can I just confirm the following steps then?
-Adjust PH down to 7.2, aerate, when it comes up again, adjust down again, aerate, repeat. TA should come down as well.
-Go ahead and add salt and get SWG working.
-Wait on the CYA bump up until I get the PH down and test overnight for FC loss.
Sound right??

Some of the experts may chime in and correct me but I would do the following:

1. Get your pH to 7.2 (for now just get the pH down)
2. Get your FC to around 10 after the the sun goes down.
3. Test your FC before the sun comes up the next morning.
4. If your FC drops 1 or less, then you are good, you have no organics in the pool...you can swim.

As for adding the salt/CYA...I don't use a SWG so I can't advise. Make sure the SWG is off during the test.

 

[Pogueld]

All sounds good, but you can go ahead and test for overnight FC loss. Take a FC count before bed, don't add anything, then test again in the AM before the sun hits the pool.

If your FC more than 1 ppm difference, then you need to begin the SLAM process.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[pooldv]

Yep sounds good.
Add the acid to drop ph from 8 to 7.2
Do go ahead and Perform the Overnight FC Loss Test (OCLT) tonight
Add salt anytime you want, it takes 24 hours to mix with the pump running and a little help from the brush. Do not assume the starting salt level is 0, lots of things add salt to pool water.
Put CYA in a sock and toss it in the skimmer basket anytime, squeeze a few times a day to help dissolve it.
Test PH again and adjust when FC is below 10
Turn on SWG and see if it is happy about the salt level in a few days