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Thread: stiggyb

  1. Back To Top    #1

    Join Date
    Jul 2015
    DeWitt, Virginia


    I have an above ground pool that holds 10,000 gallons of water. I have a sand filter. I have had it for 3 years and it stays green most of the summer. We have had lots of rain this summer and very hot, humid weather but I just don't understand why I cannot keep the water clear.
    I had a pool a few years ago and all I ever used was shock it and baking soda. It never turned green and was always sparkling clear. We filled the pool from pond water so it was very yucky for about a week but then cleared up.
    This pool, I filled from my personal well water which was perfectly clear, but it didn't take it long to turn green. The water hardness is always low but I had read that the water hardness did not matter if you had a vinly pool. The total alkalinity is usually low also.
    I have muratic acid, but have always been afraid to use it.
    Help, I want clear water!!!!

  2. Back To Top    #2
    Mod Squad Texas Splash's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2014
    South-Central Texas, Marion/San Antonio

    Re: stiggyb

    Hello and welcome to TFP! A green pool almost always is an indication of algae, however well water also can contain metals which can give similar indications. First thing we would have to ask is for a full set of test results (FC, CC, CYA, PH, TA, and CH). Do you have the proper test kit to do this? The proper test kit (i.e. TF-100 – link below) is the foundation of your pool care. Why this kit? We've learned through personal experience that you cannot reply on pool store testing, test strips, or simple over-the-counter kits. They simply do not read Free Chlorine (FC) or Cyanuric Acid (CYA) levels accurately or to the high levels we need. If you do not have a TF-100 or Taylor K2006 test kit, it should be your #1 priority.

    We also need the equipment you have and what type of pool. Please add your pool info to your signature by going to the top of the TFP web page (just under the Pool School button) and select "SETTINGS". On the next page look to the left for a menu bar that says, “MY SETTINGS” and go to "EDIT SIGNATURE" to enter your pool and equipment info there. It will help us later.

    We can help, but just to have some good information from your first. Also take a few moments to review the Pool School page and/or vital links below to get you up-to-speed on TFP methods. Welcome!
    Pat (a.k.a. Texas Splash) ~ My Pool: Viking Fiberglass; 17,888 Gal; Waterway Supreme 2-sp/2-hp pump; Hayward Ctg filter; TF-100 w/ Speed Stir
    If you enjoyed your TFP experience, please consider donating to Support TFP!

  3. Back To Top    #3
    BoDarville's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    DFW, Texas

    Re: stiggyb

    Welcome to TFP!

    If you don't already have one, you will need a good test kit to properly manage your pool. Here is a comparison of the Recommended Test Kits. I use the TF-100 because it's the best value and they have a freshness guarantee. You can order it here: They ship fast - you should have it in your hands in 2-3 days with normal shipping.

    When you say your water is green, is it a clear green or a cloudy green? Since you are filling with well water, the water can take on a slight, but clear, green tint in the presence of chlorine. Posting test results will give us a better picture of what is going on.

    BTW, here's more info on Metals in the Water and Metal Stains
    Gold Supporter, TFP Lifetime Supporter, 26,680 gal Plaster IGP 3.5 - 10' depth / Attached Waterfall Spa, Manually Chlorinated, Triton Sand Filter, 1.5 HP * 1.1 SF = 1.65 SFHP 1-speed Pentair WhisperFlo WF-26 Pump, 400K BTU NG Teledyne Laars Series One Heater, Polaris 360, Test Kit Comparison, Chlorine/CYA Chart, SLAMing Your Pool, OCLT
    A good test kit is an investment, not an expense.

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