Pump/plumbing recommendations:

The Maxflo is more efficient than both the Superpump or SuperFlo (see spreadsheet). Ignore the replacement pump nonsense they site as it is mostly meaningless. Any of those pumps would work fine. But I would choose the MaxFlo over both of those pumps.

Priming should only need to be done when you open the pump basket and the water drains out.
 
Ok. ............

I called pentair about warranties...1yr if i have a contractor do it, and 60 days if i do it! Before i found this place i had a quote of $300 to install one!
They tried to tell me the intelliflo was much more efficient and i said i dont need a pump that big.
Thanks.

Hayward has a standard one-year warranty and extends two or three years on select products when installed by a certified professional.
My SuperPumpVS has a 2 year as my pool repair shop installed it. Funny thing is that not only did I get a rebate from my power company but the installer got $200 from them as well!
 
I will go with the Maxflo pump. Thank you for all of the advice.

Surge protection I will look into as well before I install the pump.

As far as pump replacement...from what I can see everything has to be cut out every time your place something. Kind of glue as you go, no second chance. The pipes coming out of the ground aren't very tall to begin with!

The pump comes with unions.

While I was redoing things I was thinking about putting a 3way valve in place of the existing ball valve. Are all of the 3way valves the same or is there a particular model I should get.

How about anything extra...I've seen some pictures with different features for example a hose bib in the plumping, etc. not sure what it was for, I just have seen some things in pics that I don't have Is there anything I should add to the plumbing to make it more user friendly? Easier maintenance, clean it/up, or that it should just have, etc.

My existing PVC is 2" above the ground and 1.5" below. Keep it 2"?

Some of the PVC is painted grey...what would be the reason for this? Should all of it be painted? Not sure why only part of it is painted, nothing fancy just a spray paint hack job...not sure why someone would do it, it looks horrible the way it was done.

As far as equipment placement. If this was your set up, how would you configure it. I haven't seen many pool equipment set ups, but it looks strange and I've had someone else say it was kind of a hack job.

ANYTHING else you can thing of that I should do while I have the chance, please feel free to let me know.
 

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While I was redoing things I was thinking about putting a 3way valve in place of the existing ball valve. Are all of the 3way valves the same or is there a particular model I should get.
Jandy Neverlube 3-ways are probably the best choice in valves.


My existing PVC is 2" above the ground and 1.5" below. Keep it 2"?
Yes.
 
As I was posting some issues we are having with our cleaner, I thought about something. I was under the impression that If we get the suction port fixed so it can be adjusted, and run the cleaner out of that, and the skimmer by itself. Everything will be good. Skimmer can run to skim, cleaner can run to get the bottom debris.

But...if we set the speeds on the new pump on low to skim, then higher to clean...when the speed is set low for skimming...is it ok for the cleaner to be hooked up as well? It just won't move without enough vacuum, correct? Will it add any un needed strain to the pump?

Can you set times by day... Like Monday set low to skim, then tues set low to skim for 2 hours, them higher to clean for 2 hours, etc...or is it the same schedule everyday? Or do you just set aside X amount of time everyday to clean?
 
Running on low is fine, you will just not get as much suction for the skimmer or the cleaner.

I think the MaxFlo can only be set to come on and run at speed 1 for X amount of time and then it will switch to speed 2 until the timer turns off the pump. Speed 3 is only manually select-able. (I may have the speed #s wrong).

An alternative would be to add an automation system that could turn the suction line on and off and just get a 2-speed pump. So you could run on low from only the skimmer and then on high for the vac and the skimmer.
 
But...if we set the speeds on the new pump on low to skim, then higher to clean...when the speed is set low for skimming...is it ok for the cleaner to be hooked up as well? It just won't move without enough vacuum, correct? Will it add any un needed strain to the pump?
No worries. The cleaner will just not move as much if at all.

Can you set times by day... Like Monday set low to skim, then tues set low to skim for 2 hours, them higher to clean for 2 hours, etc...or is it the same schedule everyday? Or do you just set aside X amount of time everyday to clean?
Not with the MaxFlo. It is time of day based. I think for most pumps you would need a full controller to get that feature.
 
As far as controller or automation goes, not sure what the advantages are. With such a basic simple no frills pool, a descent timer would get the pump on and off to work the skimmer and cleaner right?

I think the pools I see on here are awesome with the water features and multiple lights, etc, but we just don't have that. Can you fill me in on what a controller/automation would do for us in terms of our set up? Not opposed to it, just thought it was for the more complex pool systems with multiple features, etc.
 
Exactly what I said above. The controller could automatically change the solar valve position and the pump speed when solar was needed. And run on low speed when solar was not needed. Some of the smaller VS pumps can not be integrated in this manner.
 
No solar and ill just go non automated for now.
Going to be ordering the maxflo pump this weekend and a jandy neverlube 3-way valve. Piping underground is all 1.5" and then is 2" above to all of the plumbing. The pump comes with 2" unions but the valves are listed as 1.5" - 2" or 2" - 2.5". Is there any reason why i should get one vs the other since they will both accomodate 2"? Anything else ill need other than the pvc to redo things?
What cement is recommended? All in one or primer and separate glue?

Anything i should add to my plumbing while its apart?

Gotta order surge protection also.
 

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Perfect! Thanks! As far as the two different versions of the pump...can you use the one capable of external controller as a self controlled unit or must it have a separate controller? (Thinking future capabilities)
 
So I got a few boxes in the last few days. Maxflo VS, Jandy 3-way valve, Phoenix pool cleaner (Hayward's version of "ThePoolCleaner" vacuum) and a new brush.

So now for the installation. I've posted a pic earlier of my pad. I'd really like some opinions on how to redo it or I'd I need to. It seems thrown top getter to me, but you all are the experts. If it can be improved, let me know how. Some things I've noticed are that out of the ground all the way to the pump is 1.5". Out of the pump to the filter, to the heater and to the return, is all 2". Should everything be 2", including from a the ground to the pump?

Next, unions. Are unions a no-no? The old pump is glued. Unions come with the new one. Also, the 1.5" coming out of the ground doesn't have much room before it hits a coupler which doesn't leave much room for future repairs, etc. would unions work at that point to make install and removal of pipe easier in the future? At some point I'll be digging up concrete. Or I put another coupler and add a descent amount of pipe for future cuts, etc.

Lengths of straight pipe. Is there rule if thumb for lengths coming out of or going to each piece of equipment? I know the new pump requires a minimum of 10".

The backwash valve is also glued. So I assume I'd need to replace it? Is the valve shown the one still used by most? I know there is a different style shown in the manual that is available.

The pipe that the backwash comes out of, it's just an open pipe that drains down the sidewalk and gets DE everywhere. Is this the norm?

Oh and mounting the new pump. Right now the old one is bolted to a cut piece of plywood sitting on the concrete. How is the pump normally mounted

I know it's a few questions and honestly if it all looks fine and can't be improved, that's fine too. I'm up for rearranging anything to clean it up a little.

Hopefully I don't have the issues the other post had with the Maxflo...I don't. Have solar so hopefully I don't have those flow issues.

Also....main drain doesn't do anything...not sure if that's related to this plumbing or something else. I had a response before but don't remember. I think I remember it not being a big deal if it's not functioning and kind of normal?
 

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I would probably replace all the visible pipe on the suction side where you can with 2". I would use the included unions.


Lengths of straight pipe. Is there rule if thumb for lengths coming out of or going to each piece of equipment? I know the new pump requires a minimum of 10".
I wouldn't worry too much about that. I don't think it makes a bit of difference.



The backwash valve is also glued. So I assume I'd need to replace it? Is the valve shown the one still used by most? I know there is a different style shown in the manual that is available.
No, just cut the pipe before the backwash valve.


The pipe that the backwash comes out of, it's just an open pipe that drains down the sidewalk and gets DE everywhere. Is this the norm?
It can be although you can use more pipe or a flexible backwash hose to redirect the water to where you want.


Oh and mounting the new pump. Right now the old one is bolted to a cut piece of plywood sitting on the concrete. How is the pump normally mounted
Directly on the concrete.
 
So I got a few boxes in the last few days. Maxflo VS, Jandy 3-way valve, Phoenix pool cleaner (Hayward's version of "ThePoolCleaner" vacuum) and a new brush.

So now for the installation. I've posted a pic earlier of my pad. I'd really like some opinions on how to redo it or I'd I need to. It seems thrown top getter to me, but you all are the experts. If it can be improved, let me know how. Some things I've noticed are that out of the ground all the way to the pump is 1.5". Out of the pump to the filter, to the heater and to the return, is all 2". Should everything be 2", including from a the ground to the pump? I'D GO 2" AS MUCH AS POSSIBLE EVERYWHERE.

Next, unions. Are unions a no-no? The old pump is glued. Unions come with the new one. Also, the 1.5" coming out of the ground doesn't have much room before it hits a coupler which doesn't leave much room for future repairs, etc. would unions work at that point to make install and removal of pipe easier in the future? At some point I'll be digging up concrete. Or I put another coupler and add a descent amount of pipe for future cuts, etc. USE THE UNIONS.

Lengths of straight pipe. Is there rule if thumb for lengths coming out of or going to each piece of equipment? I know the new pump requires a minimum of 10". SOME MANUALS ASK FOR 10X THE DIAMETER OF THE PIPE TO BE STRAIGHT PIPE INTO THE PUMP. I HAVE NO PROOF OTHER THAN MY OWN SETUP BUT MY INTELLIFLO PRIMES IN UNDER 10 SECONDS AND I FOLLOWED THAT RECOMMENDATION. A TECH AT PENTAIR EVEN SUGGESTED I GO LARGER (2.5" PIPE) CLAIMING I WOULD PRIME FASTER THUS MAKE THE PUMP LAST LONGER AND RUN QUIETER. I DUNNO...I WENT 12" OF 2.5" PIPE.

The backwash valve is also glued. So I assume I'd need to replace it? Is the valve shown the one still used by most? I know there is a different style shown in the manual that is available.

The pipe that the backwash comes out of, it's just an open pipe that drains down the sidewalk and gets DE everywhere. Is this the norm?

Oh and mounting the new pump. Right now the old one is bolted to a cut piece of plywood sitting on the concrete. How is the pump normally mounted? MINE JUST SITS ON THE PAD 'HELD' IN PLACE WITH THE PLUMBING. :)

I know it's a few questions and honestly if it all looks fine and can't be improved, that's fine too. I'm up for rearranging anything to clean it up a little.

Hopefully I don't have the issues the other post had with the Maxflo...I don't. Have solar so hopefully I don't have those flow issues.

Also....main drain doesn't do anything...not sure if that's related to this plumbing or something else. I had a response before but don't remember. I think I remember it not being a big deal if it's not functioning and kind of normal?

As to the MD...check the link in my sig: Fake Main Drain.
 
Thank you for the replies. Sorry for the delay, i work a ton of hours and am hopeing to finally get this done this weekend if i am off!

So i need to pick up unions for everything coming out of the ground and use the ones that came with the pump also. Im assuming they make union adapters to go from 1.5" to 2"? Are these anything special? Or can i just pick them up at Lowes?

Why dont more installs just use unions? Makes for much easier replacement of equipment.


Pump can sit on concrete, no pad necessary. Sounds easy enough!

Backwash valve....do you all have it drain into your planters or? Planters or sidewalk this makes a powdery mess, lol. Is it even ok to go in the gutter? May have to check with the locals. Can this stuff go down the drain? I have a cleanout for the house about 10ft away....would be easy to run a hose to that when the time comes.

Main drain, ill check out your link in you sig. Thank you.
 
m assuming they make union adapters to go from 1.5" to 2"?
No but they make pipe adapters that do. They are called bushings.

Why dont more installs just use unions?
If they come with the equipment, then I think they do. My pump, filter and heater all came with unions. You really only need unions for the major equipment so I wouldn't over do it. Also, you can't usually get unions at the local hardware store so you will need to get them online or maybe a pool store.
 

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