Marathon RB134 Pump buzzes and spins...then stops.

Jul 15, 2013
54
Germantown, TN
So...went outside yesterday and noticed my pump wasn't running. It's a Marathon RB134 (catalog number) pump. When it switches on the shaft actually spins for a few seconds (i can see it turn by taking the access panel off the back) and the motor hums really loud, then it stops. I can move the shaft freely with a screwdriver and I've replaced the capacitor. Anything else I can try other than getting a new pump?
 
I was about to say "capacitor" but then you checked it. Also without the cap the pump would not even start.
You might have a shorted turn in the winding. I wonder if the pump has internal heat relay or maybe any protection relay that sees the overcurrent and disconnect it.

Does it take some pausing before you can restart it after it stops, or you can do it immediately and the process repeats exactly?

I think you are better off changing motor.
 
I was about to say "capacitor" but then you checked it. Also without the cap the pump would not even start.
You might have a shorted turn in the winding. I wonder if the pump has internal heat relay or maybe any protection relay that sees the overcurrent and disconnect it.

Does it take some pausing before you can restart it after it stops, or you can do it immediately and the process repeats exactly?

I think you are better off changing motor.

Thanks for the reply. There is a two or three minute delay before I can turn it back on...probably some sort of an over-heat safety type thing is my assumption. I was afraid it meant new motor...just wanted to be sure there wasn't something else simple.
 
A turn short makes a winding to heat fast. Could be that.
Wait for someone else maybe to chime in, I am no motor expert (though am an EE), so maybe (5% chance) someone might suggest something I hadn't thought of, but if by tomorrow nothing happens, and the time counts, buy a new one.
 
So....I can get a replacement Marathon pump online for $180. I realize I'd have to install it myself. I'm fairly handy...just replaced our booster pump a few months ago with no issues. Am I missing something here? My local pool stores are telling me $500ish bucks for a new Hayward...$600 installed. $600 vs a $180 replacement?
 
If you are sure this is the same pump, RB134, and you could call the online place and make sure, reading labels and all, go for it.

I was trying to buy a new Hayward in Leslie, but decided to buy online, the same pump was $170 vs store $270. They are brick'n'mortar, they have to. I use them...if it is an emergency, otherwise most poolstores ship for free :)
 
Hey morzh...hope you're still following this thread :). I got my new pump...$200 from a local electric motor place here in town rather than a $500 pool store pump. I got home to wire it in and noticed that I have two orange (identical) wires with no distinguishing marks on them...and a green ground wire. The poles on the pump are labeled L1 and L2. How do I determine which goes where...I'm assuming it matters. Like a true moron, I didn't take a picture of the old motor and mark the wires appropriately.
 
Is it 230V pump or 110V?

For 230V L1/2 can go each to either phase(line), and GND s GND Earth. For 110V....it does not matter either, either can go to either L or N, and again, Green is the Earth (gee I am getting pietic here).


Important:for Hi and Lo voltage there might be a need to reconnect another wire. Manual helps.

In the woist case ask the store you got it from. BTW it shoud have some sort of instructions? No?
Be careful, work with your breaker off.
 
Well, the new pump was installed last night by yours truly and ran all night. I think we're back in business! Pool store wanted $650 installed ($500 for the motor). A trip to an engine shop in a weird part of town, 2 hours of my own time, and I now have a new pump running for $240.
 

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