2.5" plumbing or new neverlube valve exterior?

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T

tturkstr

0
Jul 12, 2011
48
London, ON, Canada
I hope this question makes sense.
My pool house plumbing was a mess (and leaking) so I replaced all my 1.5" plumbing with 2" and simplified it. It works great and moves way more water than it did before. The problem is that it now sucks so hard that it's overpowering my MX-8 supply side "robot". I had rearranged the Jandy Neverlube valve (by rotating the top cover so that the inlet is at the side) so that it could draw from my skimmer or my main drain, or both, but I can only partially block my skimmer, not partially block my main drain without also partially blocking my main drain, if you know what I mean. See pic. I want to replumb it to the original way with the bottom part of the T as the inlet, but there is no room on the pipes exiting the valve to replumb. Are there any fittings that go on the outside of the Jandy neverlube valve? Or the ability to just buy the outside piece and put my hardware into? Or do I need to buy a whole new valve?
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Thanks, Tim
 
Thanks, that's just the information I was looking for. Looking at the valve, that's what I had suspected.
Unfortunately, no local pool store sells 2.5" or 3" fittings. How do I know whether I need 2.5" or 3" fittings? The diameter outer seems to be 2.9", which I assume is the outer diameter of a 2.5" pipe, so I would need 2.5" fittings?
Also, any suggestions for which on-line vendor to get the fittings and reducers from?
Thanks!
 
Thanks, I'd love an alternate solution. If you see the 3rd picture above, the pump inlet is on the left of the Neverlube valve. (The cover plate has raised ridges to block the "inlet" of the valve from being turned off. This is usually the center of the T, but I had rotated it to the left in the picture to clean up the plumbing, allowing me to shut off either the skimmer or main drain completely.) Top is main drain and Right port is the skimmer. Inside the valve is a curved rectangle with an o ring that can block 90 degrees of the ports. I usually point "OFF" to the bottom, so everything is open, but I can turn off either the skimmer or the main drain easily, or the pump inlet if I remove the locking screw so that the handle turns past the stops.

I never anticipated wanting to turn off the main drain only partly. I can now turn off the skimmer partly by pointing the "OFF" (opposite the handle) partly to the bottom (in the pic) and partly to the skimmer, but I can't partially block the main drain without partially blocking either the skimmer or the pump inlet.

However, with the 2" plumbing in the rest of the system has so little pressure drop that the pump sucks too hard on the MX-8 if the main drain is shut off completely, but not hard enough if both main drain and skimmer are open. I need to put the valve in the original way, with the inlet on center of the "T" so that I can have the option of everything open, and partially open either the main drain or the skimmer by overlapping the internal valve with the 90 degree section of the valve that has no port. This looks like a picture would have been helpful, but I have no scanner. I'm going to rotate the valve so that the middle of the T goes into the pump and the two lateral ports go to the skimmer and main drain.

Hope that makes sense. Other suggestions welcome.
 
However, with the 2" plumbing in the rest of the system has so little pressure drop that the pump sucks too hard on the MX-8 if the main drain is shut off completely, but not hard enough if both main drain and skimmer are open.
Click to expand...
So, why not adjust the valve to something in-between like the last picture shows? There must be a spot between the MD and skimmer where you get just enough suction for the cleaner.
 
There is nothing wrong with doing it that way. The combined flow is probably still higher than either port alone.
 
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