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It is currently May 19th, 2013, 3:15 am
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thunderkyss
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Post subject: The Dark Side  Posted: May 13th, 2012, 1:11 pm |
Joined: July 24th, 2010, 11:40 am Posts: 156 Location: Pt. Arthur, TX
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I appreciate this forum. I believe in BBB. However, Tri-chlor, Di-chlor, stabalizers, etc.. have been around for years.. decades even. Pool stores have also been around for quite some times as well as pool cleaning services.
Some of these pool stores/cleaning services are & have been fairly "successful." These companies that produce these products are fairly successful as well.
So there has to be another side right?
Does anyone know if there is a forum, like TFP, for the guys who successfully use those products?
_________________ Custom Cloud shaped 19'x35' - Raised Spa 6' diameter Rainbow 320 Inline Chlorinator - Paramount Clear O3 Ozone Generator Hayward C4025 Cartridge Filter (Hayward CX880XRE) - Hayward Tristar 2 speed pump Hayward H400Fdn Heater, Hayward GVA-24 (valve actuators)
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duraleigh
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Post subject: Re: The Dark Side  Posted: May 13th, 2012, 1:15 pm |
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Joined: April 1st, 2007, 8:12 am Posts: 14995 Location: Raleigh, NC
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Member on this forum, including me, successfully use those products season after season. It is testing accurately and knowing the side affects of using those products (and knowing when to quit) that makes you a BBB'r. Too often, BBB is mistaken as some kind of rigid program where you have to only use Clorox, baking soda and wear a tin foil hat.  Nothing could be further from the truth So, to me, the "other side" would be blindly tossing stuff into your pool with no idea of the outcome or consequences. I don't think there is another forum that teaches that. If so, they would have to wear the hats. 
_________________ Dave S. Site Owner TFTestkits owner TFTestkits , Pool Calculator , Pool School
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Beez
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Post subject: Re: The Dark Side  Posted: May 13th, 2012, 3:12 pm |
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Joined: May 19th, 2009, 5:02 pm Posts: 776 Location: Dallas, TX
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duraleigh wrote: Too often, BBB is mistaken as some kind of rigid program where you have to only use Clorox, baking soda and wear a tin foil hat.  Nothing could be further from the truth... speak for yourself, Dave... I think I look rather jaunty in tin foil...
Last edited by Beez on June 16th, 2012, 11:03 am, edited 1 time in total.
_________________ 20K gal IG plaster pool, Manually chlorinated with 6% bleach, 1.5 HP Sta-Rite Dura-Glas II pump, Pentair FNS Plus 48 DE filter, Polaris 280
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Ohm_Boy
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Post subject: Re: The Dark Side  Posted: May 13th, 2012, 4:55 pm |
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Joined: May 1st, 2007, 3:38 pm Posts: 1362 Location: Orlando, FL
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I have a good friend who manages his pool w/ Trichlor tabs and pool store advice. He and I talk about it usually toward the end of each summer, when he has to clear up an algae bloom to get ready for a party. I tell him about why he is having trouble, and I tell him what he can do about it. He makes multiple trips to his local pool store and gets armloads of shock products, algaecides, and snake oil, then ultimately has to drain some water because of the mythical "chlorine lock" beast, or some new "chlorine resistant" algae, and then dumps in more chemicals after the refill. This happens every year. EVERY YEAR. Last year he bought a pump because he had gotten tired of having to rent one each year just to drain most of his water. But he is happy because he only has to drop some tabs in the feeder periodically to take care of his pool.
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stev32k
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Post subject: Re: The Dark Side  Posted: May 13th, 2012, 5:52 pm |
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Joined: March 29th, 2009, 8:47 am Posts: 395 Location: Mobile, Alabama
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Interesting topic. My neighbor across the street has a large tile lined pool (maybe 25X50 not sure) and they have pool man that comes once a week. When he started taking care of their pool about 4 years ago he was 19. He has tried to sell his services to me on several occasions and has told me every time that he has worked in a pool store since he was 15 and "knows everything there is to know about a pool".
His method is to add 7 pucks and four or five pounds of shock each week. Add pH up or down as needed, add hardness up as needed, and add alkalinity up as needed. Once a quarter he drains and refills the pool by 1/3 and adds chemicals as needed. I can't argue about his results because the pool is always sparkling clear and as far as I know they have never had an algae problem.
The cost for this service is about $500 - $600 per month including his fee and chemicals. I think he has several similar accounts around town.
_________________ 20' x 40' IG with vinyl liner volume approx. 35,000 gal.1.5 H.P. main pump, Polaris 280 cleaner W/ 3/4 H.P. booster pump Hayward sand filter, 3.14 sq ft, 62 gpm. Liquidator chlorine feeder. 1 micron final filter bags (home made and very effective)
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Isaac-1
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Post subject: Re: The Dark Side  Posted: May 13th, 2012, 6:56 pm |
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Joined: May 10th, 2010, 1:12 am Posts: 1515 Location: SW Louisiana
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My experience is like the others mentioned, sure the pool store way works, sort of if you don't mind spending a ton of money, having water that burns eyes, and you don't mind dumping the water. I too played that game for years, did the Baqua thing as an alternative, then ended up here. The thing to rememer about the pool store model is they are in business to sell chemicals, it is not in their best interest for a pool owner to maintain their pool with minimal chemical use, as such they off the perception of easy automated chlorination pucks, etc. then when it all comes tumbling down blame it on chlorine lock, or chlorine resistant algae, but not before selling another car load of chemicals to try to counteract the last batch.
_________________ Indoor 20x40 36,000 gallon vinyl pool with 1.5 HP 2 speed Jandy FloPro pump. Hayward EC75 Perflex DE filter with 11 4x12 Techno-Solis panel roof top solar heat, Dolphin Diagnostic Robot Cleaner. Also LMI metering chlorine dispenser pump and soon to be connected UV Ozonator I use and endorse the TFtestKits TF-100 from http://tftestkits.net
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Beez
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Post subject: Re: The Dark Side  Posted: May 14th, 2012, 11:43 am |
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Joined: May 19th, 2009, 5:02 pm Posts: 776 Location: Dallas, TX
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The key to the "pool industry" method of using stabilized chlorine products exclusively is water replacement, though it is hardly a secret to even a casual reader of this forum. The pool store will disguise it as advice to backwash more often than necessary. The more honest "experts" will simply describe yearly partial drains as routine pool maintenance, as Steve and Isaac mention above.
The bottom line as I see it is that a pool owner wants the most convenient, trouble free and cost effective method of maintaining his pool, whether he is aware of it or not. The problem is that he wants a magic bullet, where none exists.
At first glance, the pool store method might look more convenient with its seemingly "hands off" approach, but the big picture is hardly so. "BBB", at first glance, might be seen as more troublesome by those that don't understand it, but the big picture is exactly the opposite.
What BBB truly offers in contrast to the pool store, is inside track information. For those that take the time, and roll up their sleeves, this is the magic bullet. A forum such as TFP, for "the other side" would be antithetical to their purposes. The pool store wants you to leave the details to the "experts" (them). Your part in the process is that of the bankroll.
That's my $.02 to the discussion...
_________________ 20K gal IG plaster pool, Manually chlorinated with 6% bleach, 1.5 HP Sta-Rite Dura-Glas II pump, Pentair FNS Plus 48 DE filter, Polaris 280
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Smykowski
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Post subject: Re: The Dark Side  Posted: May 14th, 2012, 2:18 pm |
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Joined: September 17th, 2011, 2:46 pm Posts: 688 Location: Gurnee, IL (North Suburban Chi-town)
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Beez wrote: The key to the "pool industry" method of using stabilized chlorine products exclusively is water replacement, though it is hardly a secret to even a casual reader of this forum. The pool store will disguise it as advice to backwash more often than necessary. The more honest "experts" will simply describe yearly partial drains as routine pool maintenance, as Steve and Isaac mention above.
The bottom line as I see it is that a pool owner wants the most convenient, trouble free and cost effective method of maintaining his pool, whether he is aware of it or not. The problem is that he wants a magic bullet, where none exists.
At first glance, the pool store method might look more convenient with its seemingly "hands off" approach, but the big picture is hardly so. "BBB", at first glance, might be seen as more troublesome by those that don't understand it, but the big picture is exactly the opposite.
What BBB truly offers in contrast to the pool store, is inside track information. For those that take the time, and roll up their sleeves, this is the magic bullet. A forum such as TFP, for "the other side" would be antithetical to their purposes. The pool store wants you to leave the details to the "experts" (them). Your part in the process is that of the bankroll.
That's my $.02 to the discussion... One of the most thoughtful, concise posts I've ever read on the "pool store" vs. "BBB" method discussion. Very well said.
_________________ 33' round, 23,000 gal AG vinyl Doughboy, 1.5HP Hayward PowerFlo Matrix w/ 150# sand filter (X2) "It was a 'Jump to Conclusions' mat. You see, it would be this mat that you would put on the floor... and would have different CONCLUSIONS written on it that you could JUMP TO." Pool Store year 1 - pool open 2 months, $850 Pool Store year 2 - pool open 2 months, $440 BBB year 1 - pool open 4 months, $170
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chem geek
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Post subject: Re: The Dark Side  Posted: May 14th, 2012, 3:38 pm |
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Joined: March 28th, 2007, 2:40 pm Posts: 6728 Location: San Rafael, CA USA
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I just wrote the following in this post that also seems relevant for this thread: One can also get lucky having water low in algae nutrients, particular phosphates. Between that and having some chlorine and possibly shocking on occasion, it's enough to prevent algae growth. The pool store where I buy 12.5% chlorinating liquid has a pool service with around 2000 customers (they are large) and they use Trichlor pucks with a chlorine target of 4.5 ppm and do a partial drain/refill when the CYA level hits 100 ppm in the pools. Even so, some pools still get a little algae and need shocking. Not a surprise to us, of course. Remember that this is a statistical thing. Just because there is a low FC/CYA ratio that does not guarantee algae. It just increases the odds, depending on other factors. In my own pool that was new 9 years ago, I only started having problems with Trichlor tabs when my CYA hit 150 ppm with my FC being 3 ppm, but I was using Polyquat 60 every other week which likely delayed my having problems to my second year.
_________________ 16,000 gallon outdoor in-ground 16'x32' plaster pool; Pentair Intelliflo VF pump; Pentair IntelliTouch i9+3s control system; Jandy CL-340 square foot cartridge filter 12 Fafco solar panels; Purex Triton PowerMax 250 natural gas heater (200,000 BTU/hr output); automatic electric pool safety cover; 4-wheel pressure-side "The Pool Cleaner"
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Beez
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Post subject: Re: The Dark Side  Posted: May 14th, 2012, 3:43 pm |
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Joined: May 19th, 2009, 5:02 pm Posts: 776 Location: Dallas, TX
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Smykowski wrote: One of the most thoughtful, concise posts I've ever read on the "pool store" vs. "BBB" method discussion. Very well said. Thanks! I seem to get better reception with the tin foil. Helps me think clearer... 
_________________ 20K gal IG plaster pool, Manually chlorinated with 6% bleach, 1.5 HP Sta-Rite Dura-Glas II pump, Pentair FNS Plus 48 DE filter, Polaris 280
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mitch08
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Post subject: Re: The Dark Side  Posted: May 15th, 2012, 3:41 pm |
Joined: June 30th, 2008, 7:21 pm Posts: 261
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Honestly, my family and I have always used tabs. We have never had a problem. EVER! I use both now. I use tablets for half the season and then I switch to bleach. I think a key difference that doesn't get discussed much here is location. In the Northeast, the season is short. Over the winter there is a decent amount of water displacement with mesh covers, etc. I think it would be much more rare to have a problem in NY with a 3 to 4 month season than in Florida or California where the season goes for most of the year. In NY, people are extremely successful using 'pucks'. In fact, nobody I know uses bleach. This is a pretty rare thing considering how convenient chlorinators are. At the end of the summer, their pools look nice and blue and clean. Its not like Im going to these people's houses in August and seeing a big swamp 
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linen
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Post subject: Re: The Dark Side  Posted: May 15th, 2012, 4:22 pm |
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Joined: July 30th, 2010, 8:56 am Posts: 5497 Location: Minnesota
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@ mitch08 Here in Minnesota there are many people who use tabs and never have had a problem, but there are also those that do have problems. So I think in short season climates that freeze in the winter, trichlor may well cause less problems then down south. But there are still problems, there are still mid-season water changes, there are still people using pucks in place of testing, and there are still people spending big dollars on pool store miracle cures. I would guess that is true in NY as well. Bottom line, even in these climates, testing is still required and cya at too high levels still causes problems as do other incorrect pool chemistry parameters. The methods on this board are meant to be simple and avoid problems. As pool owners become more aware of the simple chemistry taught on here, then they are more able to deal with the pitfalls of the feeders. mitch08 wrote: Its not like Im going to these people's houses in August and seeing a big swamp  Around here I do. Not all of them are swamps, but I do see some pretty cloudy pools that smell of CC.
_________________ Pool School teaches me the BBB method of pool care while using the TF100 test kit and the Pool Calculator to properly maintain the water in my: Round AGP 11K gal with a deep end, 20" sand filter, Matrix 1hp 2spd, 6 2ftX20ft Sungrabber panels, Intex SWCG (copper bars disconnected), and Borates. Also a Rubadub hot tub and a UDS (Ugly Drum Smoker) poolside. If your water has you worried, follow the Shocking Process until: 1. CC is less than 0.5 ppm, 2. An OCLT shows a loss of 1.0 ppm or less and, 3. The water is crystal clear.
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Isaac-1
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Post subject: Re: The Dark Side  Posted: May 15th, 2012, 4:29 pm |
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Joined: May 10th, 2010, 1:12 am Posts: 1515 Location: SW Louisiana
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mitch08 does have a good point, another big factor is type of filter used, a traditional sand filter will require a lot of water use through backwashing , this of course will lower the CYA level through water replacement due to water lost to the backwash process, Of course in areas where water is expensive or may be rationed cartridge filters that don't require backwashing are much more popular, these areas also tend to have longer swim season which lead to higher concentrations of CYA in the pools.
_________________ Indoor 20x40 36,000 gallon vinyl pool with 1.5 HP 2 speed Jandy FloPro pump. Hayward EC75 Perflex DE filter with 11 4x12 Techno-Solis panel roof top solar heat, Dolphin Diagnostic Robot Cleaner. Also LMI metering chlorine dispenser pump and soon to be connected UV Ozonator I use and endorse the TFtestKits TF-100 from http://tftestkits.net
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chem geek
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Post subject: Re: The Dark Side  Posted: May 16th, 2012, 3:56 am |
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Joined: March 28th, 2007, 2:40 pm Posts: 6728 Location: San Rafael, CA USA
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In fact, what you describe regarding longer swim seasons (7 months, in my case, using solar and gas heating) and using cartridge filters is my situation. In addition, for my first winter season I used a pool cover pump to remove water to a drain rather than overflow and dilute the pool water. So I had virtually no water dilution over two seasons which is why the CYA level built up so quickly in my pool. Now, even though I don't use Trichlor pucks/tabs anymore, I use winter rains for water dilution just to keep salt levels in check and to help refresh the water.
_________________ 16,000 gallon outdoor in-ground 16'x32' plaster pool; Pentair Intelliflo VF pump; Pentair IntelliTouch i9+3s control system; Jandy CL-340 square foot cartridge filter 12 Fafco solar panels; Purex Triton PowerMax 250 natural gas heater (200,000 BTU/hr output); automatic electric pool safety cover; 4-wheel pressure-side "The Pool Cleaner"
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