It was recommended that I test CH, PH, and TA for the fill water that I will be putting in tonight for my pool and post the results for any feedback on chemicals needed for startup. They are shooting the quartz aggregate plaster today. I used my TF-100 and it seemed to go well with very clear instructions. My only question regarding the test was with the CH, it went from red to a slight blue tinge at 240, is that what I was looking for or is it a dark blue? I read it pool school to add sequestrant at startup, what exactly is this and do I just ask for that or a specific name. Thanks alot for any feedback, to see I have learned so much from pool school and everyones posts is a huge understatement, it is funny how empowered you feel when testing your own water...lol....thanks again all !! Oh and the pool is 15x30, with an average depth of 4.2, however I have a sunshelf with 8 inches of water , so I am using a pool size of 14x29 to deduct the reduction in total volume due to the sunshelf, does that probably make sense? With that I get 11400 gallons.

PH 8.1
TA 220
CH 240

What you're looking for on the CH test (as well as TA) is the point at which it stops changing color. If you add 24 drops and it starts changing, add another. If that changes the color more, add another. And so on. Until you add one more drop and the color remains the same. Then you don't count that drop in your total. More details may be found in the "Extended Test Kit Directions" topic.

Your TA is high, which will exacerbate the pH rise from the new plaster. Expect to need LOTS of acid. Having CH 240 is a bit worrisome to me, since the plaster will raise that even higher as I understand it and you could be even higher if you'd kept going with the test.

Beyond that I'll let those more expert than myself address.

Since your pH will be too high going in, buy enough muriatic to lower it down to 7.2 and have it on hand to do so as soon as the pool fills. Secondly, double that amount. Your pH will be rising steadily for a while and it is your job to keep it in the 7's all the time.....don't let it get in the 8's.

Disregard sequestrant unless you know or suspect you have excess metal in your water source.

Once your pool is full and your pH is lowered, do not forget the importance of adequate chlorine and CYA in the pool......Let us know if you need help with those two important parameters.

I would address CH and TA down the road a little. For now, it is really important your pH stay down and that you keep chlorine (and CYA) in the pool.

Well, I suggest you add the sequesterant.

Also, our Pool School New Plaster Start-Up article suggests it be added and the National Plaster Association's Start-up Card also recommends the sequesterant: http://www.npconline.net/StartUp.pdf


Even if the odds of that happening are low, I suggest it is worth a bottle of sequestrant to avoid the small chance of a problem.

You are gonna' need lotsa MA to control the pH. Keep the pH in the 7's. Monitor the TA & CH for now. Don't forget to take pics!

Filled the pool last night. Pool guy came this morning from the builders and fired up the system. They have not installed the SWG till 30 days so he put 3 trichlor pucks in the pump basket and is letting it run for 24 hours. I also saw him put an unknown amount of MA into the pool to reduce the PH. The build came with 6 months free pool service, i told the guy I was planning on doing it myself with the BBB method and he just looked at me like "huh". He did agree that the pool stores suck, but said he would keep it in line with his weekly visits (lol). I told him I will keep it in line, you can just check it and vacuum for me when you come once a week. So basically right now we got 3 pucks, MA, and they will fire up the filter tomorrow. I will test in the morning when I get home and post some results....here we go !!

I agree completely! (now) I have never read that very carefully but it makes very good sense and I was incorrect to tell you to skip it. I'm just not sure if you should redose after doing it once