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 Post subject: Starting the Baquacil to Chlorine conversion
PostPosted: May 31st, 2008, 9:52 pm 
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Joined: May 31st, 2008, 9:25 pm
Posts: 2
[Edit to include line breaks:jjparrish]

I've spent some time today, while my pool was draining, reading the posts on the conversion process. I spent the last two summers fighting Baquacil (after about 10 years of good luck with it at another location---I thought my problems were related to a new residence with different water) I am more than ready to change :!:

I just can't deal with the pink stuff in the filter, having to change the sand mid-season, having white, pink or green slime stuff in the pool and spending tons of time and money trying to make it work and, not being able to get in the pool because of the mess.

So...here is where we are at. We closed last fall with no Baquacil added for over a month...we knew we were headed to changing this spring. Have drained the pool to about 6 inches of water and are beginning to add fresh water now. The filter was emptied and thoroughly cleaned last fall, so we are starting with clean sand.

I have some yuck on the floor of the pool...we live in the country we get some dirt that gets through the winter cover. I usually just vacuum this to waste and then add more water and begin with my chemicals.

By reading your posts it looks like this will be okay to do. Then what...I've read about getting my pH at 7.2...I usually do this with muratic acid. If anyone is willing to help me with this I'd be grateful. I've seen posts about a test kit...where can that be purchased? (I bought the strips from my local pool store)

Our pool is 18 ft/48 inches...approx 7500 gals. Thanks in advance for any help. :-D


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: May 31st, 2008, 9:59 pm 
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Welcome to TFP!

By replacing most of your water you are avoiding most of the conversion process, but there is still going to be just a little baquacil in there.

The best test kit is the one sold by TF Test Kits, see the link in my signature. When the pool is full of new water and you have a set of test results you should post them.



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 Post subject:
PostPosted: May 31st, 2008, 10:12 pm 
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Joined: May 31st, 2008, 9:25 pm
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Thanks so much for the reply...I think I will actually sleep a little better tonight. I was beginning to worry that I would have the pea soup looking pool that I saw in some of the pictures. Thanks for the advice on getting the test kit, but I guess I don't have enough computer brains to know what your signature is and how to link to that to order the kit.... :flower:


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: June 1st, 2008, 8:00 am 
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Joined: April 16th, 2007, 9:34 pm
Posts: 1826
Location: Pennsylvania
Hi sunflower!

A signature is in a post below the message seperating the message and siggy by a _________________

Please post pics if you can figure that out...
I usually upload my pics to imageshack and add the url.

Good Luck! 8)



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 Post subject:
PostPosted: June 1st, 2008, 8:17 am 
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Joined: March 28th, 2007, 11:43 am
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Location: Northern KY
test kit link: http://www.tftestkits.com

welcome to TFP!



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18x32 grecian IG vinyl; ~23000 gallons; 250# sand filter, Hayward superpump with AO Smith motor 1HP SF1.0; booster pump for polaris. Handy Links: Jason's Calculator, TF-100 Test Kit, Pool School, CYA-Chlorine Chart
"Shock" is a process, not a product!
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: June 1st, 2008, 1:50 pm 
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Joined: May 30th, 2007, 8:57 pm
Posts: 7674
Location: South Carolina
Hi sunflower and welcome to the forum :lol:

If you add all your pool and equipment info in your signature, it will be helpful for members to give better answers!

You can do that by going to your profile, located at the top of the page in the sub-heading. If you need help, just let us know.

You can also use PhotoBucket.com to load your pix. Free service.

We're glad to have you!



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You're done shocking when:
1)You lose 1ppm or less FC overnight, & 2)You have .5ppm CC's or less, & 3)your water is clear.

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