Good Point Dave! How many gallons is your pool and what did you have to set the flow meter to if you don't mind me asking?

It's 13,000 gals and I ran it between 2 & 3.

I'm finding the more bleach in the tank the more FC that goes into the pool no matter how the valve is set. Very hard to get this thing dialed in and regulated. So an example would be with the liquidator filled with bleach set on 3 on the flow meter it would provide more FC then the liquidator half full of bleach and set at 5 on the flow meter. I know they make better valves, but I do not fell the valve is the problem. Please help.

I never saw that happen so I'm not sure what's going on. As long as I didn't have leaves in the skimmer it would maintain the same FC in the pool without ever adjusting the flow once I got it dialed in.

I found the problem. Air in the system/lines. The air keeps causing the flow to change on it own, especially when the pump turns on and off automatically. I have a device called a Vac-Alert. It is used to stop anyone from getting stuck to the deep end drains in the pool. It has always leaked air. If you turn off the main drain no more leaks. So how important is the Vac-Alert? I have 2 drains, so I would need 2 people stuck to that bottom drain at the same time. I'm thinking I have to remove the vac-alert it has one of those 2' Pvc threaded "pool" unions. I would like to know where to order the 2" threaded PVC Unions from, (or does Home depot/ lowes carry them)? I'm thinking I will remove the Vac-Alert and use a threaded union to 2" PVC with a cap on the end. Are any others having problems with these vac-alerts leaking? Is it against code to remove it? Thanks for the help.

With dual main drains the vac-alert shouldn't be required unless your locality specifically requires it. I'd check the local codes before you remove it.

Thanks Dave,
I found that the little red air release lever is allowing air into the system, so I put some plumbers putty around it and it seems to be working. I will let you know how it works out.

Thanks for the video, doublewide6. A picture is worth a thousand words, and a video even more. I am leaning towards a Liquidator and your video made it much easier to visualize my installation. Unfortunately, it looks like I've already missed the summer sale!

Looking forward the the post installation updates.

I have figured out how to regulate my LQ. First of all sealing the air leak at my vac-alert with plumbers putty did the trick to stop the air from entering the system. As air infiltrated into the LQ's lines with each days pump start up is was changing the flow rate. Now that there is not an air leak the flow rate stays the same. I also noticed that I attached my flow meter higher than the top of the LQ tank, to make it easier to read, so I lowered it because I noticed that air was being trapped above the ball on the flow meter. These were the 2 changes that I made to my system and it has corrected the problem.
I contacted Brian from vac-alert and asked why the unit is leaking air and he said a 2HP pump is too much for my 20,000 gallon pool, so now I don't know what to do get a smaller pump, get a new vac-alert, or just leave everything alone and hope that in an emergency my vac-alert will work. I have dual drains, but I also have 2 small children. Any thoughts?

A blanket statement that the pump is too large for your pool isn't good advice. Without some test pressures, or at least a complete list of the plumbing items, sizes and lengths, there's no way to know if the size of the pump is the problem at all. You may have a very high discharge head requirement and therefore need the large pump. Your pump could be an uprated pump which could actually make it smaller than a 1½ hp pump. It just torques me when someone uses a blanket statement like that without even investigating. {soap box mode off}

Where did you seal up the Vac-Alert? If you sealed the screen or orifice you might as well remove it because you defeated the operation of it and you might as well be without it because it won't work even if it needed to. If you have dual main drains you're in compliance even without it unless your locality specifically requires it.

Dave,
Here is the video of my plumbing setup that I gave to Brian at vac-alert. On his behalf, we ran some pressure tests by shutting off different valves and looking at the pressure gauge on the vac alert. See the video that I sent Brian and you can see how I used the plumbers putty. Also we are in the process of testing my vac alert to see if it will function. Note that there is no shut off valve prior to the vac alert, so the only way to test it is to put rubber mats over the main drains and shut off the skimmers. I have to run a test to see if it will work. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lvBn_DIPW2w

Well, I have been up and running for a few weeks now. I like the LQ it seems pretty simple to operate and adjust. My flow meter broke yesterday and caused an air leak. HASA is replacing it for free. In the meantime, I bypassed the flow meter and seem to like it running without the flow meter. I have put some pencil lines on the control valve as to where about it should be, but I still have to adjust it up or down a hair about every 3 days. I'm thinking possibly about using a small engine fuel shutoff valve to dial it in more accurately. Also these valves are all plastic so they won't corrode. But for now, I'm sticking with what I have. For the people that have hayward valves and anything else that is higher end can you set it exact and leave it alone for like 2 weeks +?

I'm getting one of these! What determines going the 3/8" upgrade? Are the clamps large enough for 2" pipe? What is the x-y-z sise of the 8 gallon?

I'd get the 3/8" upgrade regardless.
Yes the clamps are big enough.
It's 14"x14" square x28" tall. The inlet and outlet stick out each side, so you have to account for them.

Alright,
It has been a great season using the BBB. This is my first season switching over, and I am really happy that I bought the LQ to make my job a lot easier. So my question is how do I winterize my LQ? If I remove it do they sell caps that will go on the fittings where the lines are removed from? Or can I just add antifreeze to it? What do you guys do?

You can buy caps or plugs to fit the fittings but if you truly winterize you can just leave the holes open. Just empty the bleach out of it and rinse it out and store it.

Here's another good video that will help with installation.

http://www.hasapool.com/hasa-videos.htm ... 1UMoZHwWjk

I am thinking of installing the liquidator this spring....however, I am unsure of where to locate it or connect the hose connections...reason being.....my pool pump itself is located right next to the pool..but then I have 20 feet of underground pvc pipe that runs to behind my house where the sand filter, and heater are located......Do I locate the liquidator behind the house near the heater and filter..and then run a LONG line of tubing to the pool where the liquidator would connect into the pipe in front of the pool pump?

Thanks for any help
Dan

Your pool is in the size range where I wouldn't recommend a LQ (liquidator). Given that and the layout I'd suggest an injection pump and drum. You only need one line and it's to the pressure side of the system so it could be a short run of tubing. Also, since you have a short run on the suction and a long run on the discharge I figure your suction head is very low and you'll need to modify it to make the LQ work.

Good to know...maybe I'll look more at the "dosing pump" type of setup. Any systems out there that are recommended???