Did you notice that the words "the manual" in my post were a different color? That often means you can click the word or phrase for more information. Try it now - click on those words in the quoted section of my post above.

There's also this thing called Google. Try Googling the words "Hasa liquidator". That's how I found the manual.

I didn't notice it came with a lifetime warranty until you said that - excellent! And thanks for all the other good feedback.

Thanks for answering all the questions Bama.

4 More questions for anyone:

1. What color should I paint the LQ?
2. Does anyone have a pic of a method to shade the LQ?
3. I also upgraded the control valve to a Hayward needle valve and it makes fine tuning the flow much easier. Do you have a link or pic of this?
4. Do you have to mail back the old part to get your warranty parts?

More information - I noticed that the technical manual said the warranty was one year, but the website link to the warranty said lifetime so I called the 800 number and spoke to a very nice lady at Hasa who told me that the plastic tank itself has a 1 year warranty, but all the moving/internal parts are lifetime warranty.

And then she volunteered the best information - inside the unit there is supposed to be coupons for free bleach and a rebate form! The free bleach coupons are for Hasa's own brand, which obviously can't be shipped, but if your local pool store carries Hasa products, then you can use the coupons there. The rebate is for $50 and runs through the end of this year. She also said, if you don't get the rebate form, just call and she'll e-mail one out.

I told her I was going to post about the rebate and that they'll probably sell a lot of units. So off you go!

It looks like Leslie's Pool Store has it from doing a search of HASA Chlorine. I wonder what other Chains stock HASA Products? Thanks for the info Carl.

Does that take into account the intial purchase and the fact that the cell will need replacement? I think I read 3-5 years - is that accurate?

It was a very rough approximation, but I was taking into account at least part of the initial purchase, and I'd hope ( ) to get more than 5 years out of a cell, since I'd buy one rated 3x my pool volume. (Initial purchase price)/(original cell life), which would certainly be less than $200/yr for the first cell's life and then probably less than $100/year for subsequent cells. This is my first year with a pool, but at $2/gal of bleach and 5 gal/week, I'll spend nearly $200, if not more, on bleach this year!

Don' forget that a SWG doesn't run on sunlight unless you install a solar array to power it. You can find other posts here that suggest the watts burned by a SWG can exceed 300 - which is at least a $15 hit on the monthly bill, if not more depending on rates.

Mine's 450w, 1.5 amps. At my rates, that's dead-on $15 a month.

I admit I was not considering the power cost, but I'm pretty sure I'd still have a net savings at my current current cost of $10/wk on bleach.

Can you give some specifics on what to use for your suggested connection method? That sounds like a great idea.

I got "1/4" npt to 3/8" tubing" speedfit adapters from Lowes and that screws right into the drain plug on the pump basket. They have several different sizes and configurations so you can find what you need.

I got my quick disconnect fittings at Home Depot. Watts PL-3025 or PL-3028.

I got my liquidator today, and it looks like I can just remove the Automatic Chlorinator and plug in the liquidator using the same saddle valves and holes. By looking at my video would the hole locations be acceptable? I know the one hose is supposed to go before the pump, but if I use the preexisting holes it will be right after them pump. Please check out the video to see the location of the saddle valves will work out. Thanks http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j4j_6Qw0wXM

The outlet of the LQ has to go on the suction of the pump. It won't work if the LQ outlet is on the discharge side of the pump. You can use one of the tablet feeder holes for the inlet of the LQ and the pump strainer basket drain plug hole for the outlet.

It looks like you could reuse one of the holes but the other would need to be new. Why pull the chlorinator out? Someday you may sell the place and people may want one...

Thanks for all the help on getting my liquidator up and running. I made a video for the people on the forum to give them a better idea of what all is involved in installing a LQ. I do not claim to know a whole lot of anything about liquidators, and I am sure there are better ways to attach the plumbing, but this video is how I did it, and it is working well. Please enjoy and I hope this my help out other forum members. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PcCTgLOgJQI

So, I'm up and running using 6% bleach in my LQ, but it seems like I'm going to need it set at 4.5 on the flow meter to keep the FC up to 6 ppm
I am figuring that I am losing about 3ppm FC per day in the sun and about 1ppm FC at night and I am running the pump for 8 hours. The manual states that I should not have to run above 4 on the flow meter is this because the manual is assuming that I am using 12% bleach?

Who knows what they assumed. It surly wasn't based on real life situations. If it takes 4.5 that's what it takes.