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 Post subject: Should I mess with TA/FC or not after hurricane
PostPosted: August 10th, 2011, 4:18 pm 
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Location: Northern Maryland (near Delaware)
I have replaced probably 1/3 of my water and CYA is still high, maybe it was really high. Anyway test kit says TA should be between 100-120 but Pool Calculator says 80-120 for traditional pool.

Here are my #'s

FC 3
CC 0
PH 7.4
TA 80
CH 230 turned light blue/violet
CYA 90

Now Pool Calc says to add 47 oz Baking soda to get me to 100 which TF-100 reccomends. I am afraid if I do that I will mess with my PH. Should I just work on bringing the chlorine up at this time and lowering the CYA?


Last edited by rjg202 on August 29th, 2011, 5:33 pm, edited 1 time in total.


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 Post subject: Re: Should I mess with TA or not
PostPosted: August 10th, 2011, 4:34 pm 
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Joined: July 16th, 2010, 4:22 am
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Location: Portland, Oregon
Change your goals in the pool calculator to Trouble Free Pool.

I can't comment on the TF100 recommending TA at 100 but 70-90 is what is usually recommended around here. It is also what will show in the pool calculator goals when you switch from traditional pool to TFP goal settings.

I'd leave TA alone right now. Deal with chlorine and CYA, correct.



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I use http://www.poolcalculator.com for minimum/maximum and shocking chlorine levels
Don't waste time and energy looking for a better value on test kits, the TF100 is the best deal around http://www.tftestkits.net
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 Post subject: Re: Should I mess with TA or not
PostPosted: August 10th, 2011, 5:06 pm 
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Joined: May 30th, 2007, 8:57 pm
Posts: 6656
Location: South Carolina
Your TA is just fine at 80.

Here's the range of Recommended Levels from Pool School:
pool-school/recommended_levels



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You're done shocking when:
1)You lose 1ppm or less FC overnight, & 2)You have .5ppm CC's or less, & 3)your water is clear.

18K IG White Plaster - 1.5 HP Pump - Hayward S-240 High Rate 300# Sand Filter, TF100 Test Kit
"The person who says it cannot be done should not interrupt the person doing it." Chinese Proverb
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 Post subject: Re: Should I mess with TA or not
PostPosted: August 11th, 2011, 4:24 pm 
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Joined: July 23rd, 2010, 6:38 am
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Location: Metro Atlanta, Georgia
Yea, don't mess with the TA unless you're having a problem with your pH drifting.



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 Post subject: My Numbers after the hurricane, should I shock more
PostPosted: August 29th, 2011, 5:27 pm 
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Joined: June 1st, 2011, 9:13 pm
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Location: Northern Maryland (near Delaware)
So I dumped about 12 -15 inches of water out after the hurricane. I shocked pretty heavy before the storm and after. Water is clear and Pool Rover cleaned the bottom really well yesterday, though his bag had a green tint. My water stayed clear, and is still clear but the slight green scares me, I also added PolyQ 60 before the storm. I am considering closing in a few weeks and don't want to lose the pool now. Today I had more **** on the bottom, I guess it was stuff just suspended.

Here are my #'s today, don't understand why my CYA stays high if I am just on bleach and have been dumping water.

FC 8.5
C/C 0
PH 7.5
TA 80
CH 180 it turned not blue but a violet at 18'th drop, I added 5 more drops and stayed same color so I assume violet is blue. If 18'th drop turned it blue is CH 180 or 170?

CYA 90 (before I tested 90 as well, but pool store tested 140, up from their previous 120)

I am going to let it run like this and just brush some more. Filter is running 18 hours up from normal 6-7 after the storm. All is well



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15'X30'X52" AGP AquaSports Grande Buttress Free (10,620 Gallons), Chlorine Feeder, Hayward Dreamline S190 W Zeobrite, 1.5 HP Hayward PowerFlo LX, AquaLuminator Light+ fountain attachment, Pool Rover, Tf-100 test kit.
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 Post subject: Re: My Numbers after the hurricane, should I shock more
PostPosted: August 29th, 2011, 5:46 pm 
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Joined: July 30th, 2010, 8:56 am
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rjg202 wrote:
don't understand why my CYA stays high if I am just on bleach and have been dumping water.
Since your CYA is high, it is more difficult to get an accurate reading. Generally speaking +/- 15 ppm is the accuracy of the CYA test up to 90 ppm, above that and the accuracy goes to +/- 30 ppm ( 100 to 200 ppm). It could explain dumping water and still reading high, i.e. maybe your were higher than 90 before, and now maybe you really are at 90. Take a look at the extended directions for CYA testing if you haven't already. Maybe that will shed some light. http://www.troublefreepool.com/extended-test-kit-directions-t25081.html#p206397



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Going to Pool School and learning the BBB method of pool care with a TF100 test kit that helps me use the Pool Calculator to properly maintain the water in my: Round AGP 11K gal (free on CL) with a deep end, Meteor 20" sand filter, Matrix 1hp 2spd, 4 2ftX20ft Sungrabber panels, Intex SWCG (copper bars removed), and Borates. Also a Rubadub hot tub and a UDS (Ugly Drum Smoker) poolside.
If your water has you worried, do an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test (OCLT), and if you fail, then follow the Shocking Process until:
1. CC is less than 0.5 ppm, 2. An OCLT shows a loss of 1.0 ppm or less and, 3. The water is crystal clear.
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