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Heater is an older Raypak RP2100. Water Temp in 77F Water Temp out 86F Does this seem right? Thanks.

Thanks for the reply. No, I haven't cleaned the burner and burner chamber. If the burner was clogged and dirty wouldn't there be a consistent temp problem?

All last year the exiting water temp was either warm or barely warm. Some days the heater worked, other days it only put out very mild lukewarm water although the burner was on the whole time. All other aspects of the heater operation is fine. I'm guessing the Unitherm Governor is the problem...

What about ladders? Does using a solar blanket mean your need to remove all ladders?

Thanks a lot!

Hi. Just opened the Hayward S240 filter and took this photo. I am replacing the sand and only found the S244T Hayward manual online which says 300 lb of sand for the S244T. Is the S244T model sand capacity the same as the older S240? If so, then I should buy 300 lb of sand? Does the sand level...

Those $60 single junction pH meters are not reliable or very accurate. Also, you need to buy a standardization buffer solution. Those portable double junction pH meters at for $200 or more at Cole Palmer are better because you can replace the electrode but now you would also want to buy an...

Re: Poolside pH Test Method - Are they all basically the sam Many thanks Jason. That is exactly what I needed to know. This site is the best!

Do all the pH test kits use Phenol Red? If so, I'm guessing the accuracy between suppliers is similar. Is this true? Thanks.

I use a plain old UV spectrophotometer with really good results. I use the method of standard addition. http://www.troublefreepool.com/cya-analysis-by-uv-t15153.html

I'm doing that. Still no cloramine smell. pH 7.6. Thanks Jason and everyone.

Came home to absolutely no chloramine smell. None at all. 12+ hours of sun. Bought a new test kit. pH = 7.5 TC = 5.0 My usual method titrates at 3.5 TC. Pool store says pH = 7.4 FC = 4.0 CC = 0 So, I'm relaxing and confused but not worried.

OK thanks. Problem is I can only measure TC. I have an idea: 1) Adjust pool pH to 7.5 2) Bring water to pool store and check FC. 3) Measure same sample with my TC too. This will give me FC, CC, TC 4) Calculate and raise FC to 15 ppm with fresh bleach. 5) Check TC right away and subtract the CC...

Ok. I have a chloramine problem. Last weekend the pool had very high usage which may have been the start. Another problem may be I actually test for Total Chlorine (TC) not FC.

Thanks a lot. I suspected this. But, oh no. I have a big pool party tomorrow. Cannot shock. Does this increase the possibility of eye irritation? Anything else I should worry about? Big thanks.

FC = 10 ppm pH = 8.0 CYA = 35 TA = 90 CA = 170 Everything was going well then the Cl dropped to 0 on Monday. Tues added 8 ppm Cl Wed 1 ppm Cl, pH 7.8 Thru eve add 10 ppm Cl and 300 ml muriatic (37%) Fri morn still 10 Cl but pH is now 8.0 And, now the pool has a sharp Cl odor, not the usual...

Hi. I had to bypass the underground skimmer line because of an underground leak. I bypassed it using an aboveground pipe. Everything works fine except losing the skimmer now results in too many surface floaties in this area of the pool. I realize I need a skimmer here. Is there an after market...

At least there are lots of unions in your plumbing unlike mine.

During the summer, I had a small green frog that lived in my skimmer. I would remove him and throw him far away in the yard over the fence. He always came back. I plugged up the skimmer lid hole and he'd swim through the skimmer water level door. I run the Cl a little high 8-10 ppm and he slowly...

Had a bunch of rain before the liner went in and the worms at night would crawl in the pool. Now, with the liner on, do the worms crawl under the liner and into the pool when it rains? If so, any tips to block the worms? Thanks.

Wind speed at the water surface also affects the evaporation rate.

Something has changed with with my older Raypak RP2100. The temperture of the return lines into the pool is significantly cooler than before. The return water is heated, but a lot lower. Pump pressure is the same, flow rate at the pool return is the same. The burners look the same. No fault...

It's possible there's some Armohib in there. (Cationic fatty amines) http://www.surface.akzonobel.com/bulletins/Armohib.pdf These additives do suppress HCl fuming a lot although I agree with the other posts about possible dilution and the misleading video trick (he had a bucket of cold water...

I used a pre-treated glass sample bottle and the pH meter has temperture correction anyway. 15 - 20 min commute.

Nope. I just like data and sharing it with people.

Bought at the same busy Walmart with fast bleach turnover. Clorox Reg.- pH 11.98, NaOCl = 6.5% Great Value - pH 12.28, NaOCl = 5.65%

Yes, a test kit is easier but I work in a lab with excellent equipment. I can easily check Cl2 and also measure pH on a research grade pH meter. I know it's overkill but obsessive minds need to know. :wink: I'll check TA weekly and CYA as needed.

I'm using the old standard method. 1 liter water sample Add 10 mL of 20% sulfuric acid to lower pH. Add 10 mL of 10% potassium iodide Titrate with 0.1 N thiosulfate to faint yellow Add starch Continue titrating to colorless. mL of 0.1 N thiosulfate x 3.55 = total chlorine Should I be worried...

Hi. I need a pool cover and I have a Rocky's Eazy Roller. http://www.rockysrollers.com/3a.html I need one for the winter too. Is there a cover that will work as a vacation cover, winter cover, and will the hand roller? I don't need any solar heating. Thanks for any help.

I wonder why schedule 40 PVC piping is used in pool plumbing. If it's buried underground with pressure and possible settling concrete on top of it, doesn't schedule 80 make more sense for long term reliability? I work in the chemical industry and I've only seen sched 80, ever. The only place...