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My bad... I entered your TA wrong into the pool calc. Even with CH that high, your SI is still within range. As long as you swear off the cal-hypo shock and tabs, you should be fine. If you still want to replace some of the water, keep an eye on your CYA level especially if it's going to be...

I hate to say it, but all that cal-hypo you added in the beginning has got your CH super high. IMO, raising the PH with CH levels that high increased your CSI high enough to cause clouding. To put it in perspective, to get your CH to the recommended level, the pool calculator indicates that...

Hopefully, I don't ruffle too many feathers here, but I think your SLAM is over, and you should let your FC levels drift down into normal range, so that you can finish balancing the water (and go swimming with the 2 year old). Here's why... PH is a critical component in determining your...

Shouldn't need the clarifier with a cartridge filter - especially at this point. Vacuum what settles, and stir up anything else that is left afterward. Oh... And don't forget to retest and adjust your PH, TA, and CYA levels after the water is clear and the FC has drifted down to maintenance...

If it's truly a Pro Series, it is made by Polygroup - not Intex. As far as I know, Intex's pro line is called an Ultra Frame. Starlite - parts are readily available for the Polygroup ProSeries pool in the Polygroup Store on their website (www.Polygroupstore.com).

That's awesome! CC of .5 or less is good. Keep in mind that, if your testing at the 10ml mark, you can only test in .5ppm incremements, so what you think is a .5 reading could actually be a little less. Get those leaves outta there, and keep going. You'll be swimming in no time!

Awesome! Keep that FC above SLAM level and brush tomorrow if you get a chance. That will get the cloudy water up off the bottom so that your filter can get to it. Great job!

Steve, That's great news! It appears that the vast majority of the algae is dead, but keep SLAMing until you pass the third test (clear water). If you keep the pump running and continue to clean the cartridge, the water will eventually clear; however, there are a couple of methods to expedite...

PH results cannot be trusted at high FC levels. It will always read high. As long as you adjusted PH within range before the SLAM, don't worry about it. - - - Updated - - - Kim beat me to it... LOL

These morning results aren't bad news - they just indicate that your brother-in-law broke up some algea when he brushed yesterday. That's awesome! CC means the the FC has combined with organics in the water and it in the process of killing them. When the CC drops below .5 ppm, it indicates...

A couple of things... CC of 1ppm is great! You're almost done. When you get it below .5 ppm, you'll have passed one of the three tests that conclude a SLAM. Do you not have a pool cover that you can use while you're away during the day? The fact that you keep letting the FC drop below shock...

I'm sure you already know this, but to test the CC level, perform your regular FC test at the 10ml mark, add 5 drops of your DPD reagent (sample will turn pink if CC is present), then add your FAS reagent again (same one you use for FC testing) swirling after each drop until it gets clear again...

Also, can you test for CC (combined chlorine) today, and post the result? I know it sounds crazy, but test results will give you a better indication of your progress than the water clarity will. With that said, you ARE making progress. Towards the beginning of this thread, you said that the...

Keep the FC levels up... Unless you received 10 inches of rain, there is something still alive in the water using up your FC since, even assuming the maximum allowable overnight FC loss for the test (1 ppm), you still lost an additional 22% of your chlorine. You would have had to received...

What is your CC currently and are you passing the overnight chlorine loss test yet?

Steve, Hang in there. The shock FC levels on the CYA/chlorine chart are the MINIMUM levels that you need to maintain at ALL times during the SLAM. Also, take your test samples at elbow length as far away as possible from where you added the chlorine (opposite side of the pool) after...

I think you're not getting many comments because you're terminology is off just like in the beginning when you were calling chlorine CH (CH generally stands for calcium hardness). What are you calling TC? One would assume that TC would be total chlorine, but there is no way total chlorine can...

13 days for a SLAM is a long time. I've opened four green pools in Georgia this season with the information found on these forums. Your CC of 1ppm indicates that the chlorine is still breaking down organics, so you're definetely not done SLAMing. With that said, if the water is blue or white...

You definitely need to order a FAS-DPD test kit from tftestkits.net. In the meantime, to answer your questions. If your CYA is truly 100 (it could actually be much higher), then yes - your CYA is too high for a manually chlorinated pool (no saltwater chlorinator). That would put your shock...

I was confused when I read your first post and you referred to the TC (total chlorine) as CH (calcium hardness), but I figured it out. You did good by adding CYA - as I recall, the HTH powdered shock is cal-hypo, so it doesn't include any CYA, but will increase calcium hardness (CH). In order...

Thanks for all the feedback! Richard320 - I realized just after I posted that the CYA in the stabilizer/trichlor tabs has probably been lowering my PH. You're comment has confirmed that in my mind. JVTrain - I've read about the muriatic acid, aerate, repeat trick for lowering TA, but since...

Hello everyone! Long time lurker as a guest. I've learned a lot by just reading the posts here for the last month. I've had an AG Intex in the past, but didn't really know what I was doing. Lasted a couple of years, but had a few minor leaks due to rocks underneath because of my lack of...