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Also - just to note - there are no "wet" areas or pool equipment that is leaking while the pump/equipment is operating ..... Confused how the filter could be draining if air can't get into the system

Opened up the pool in the last week or so. I noticed today that upon pump start up in the morning there are a ton of air bubbles shooting out of the jets. Then when I shut the pump off this afternoon I heard a bunch of "gurgling " happening - when I went over to the pool equipment if sounds as...

Perfect, I'll perform the overnight test, and run the pool for a few more days Is it worth trying to lower the CH or let it run for a few days before any adjustments ??

Opened the pool a few days ago - overall looked good but just isn't really perfectly clear 15,000 gallon fiberglass with salt water generator Numbers Water Temp 65 FC=12 CC=0 PH=8.2 CH=300 TA =150 CYA= 50 Salt= 3200

Having a fit this year with clarity - latest numbers below. Using brand new test kit, so that is fresh Water just wont become perfectly clear and I am stumped....... numbers seem within range FC-5 CC-0 PH 7.8 CH-300-350 TA160-170 What gives?

Ordered new board, should be here in a couple days...... thanks everyone for your help - appreciate it

Fuse checks out good for continuity - final check was the actual display board. Once I removed it and opened it .... well as you can see...

Here is the snap shot of the panel..... I'm pretty mechanically inclined but I SUCK at electrical ........ Does this picture tell you anything ?? I have checked the wiring connection from the SWG into the heater and those connections look solid.... no mice chewing or any bare wires that I can...

Correct the panel is wired to turn on at the same time as the heater...... I believe the Pool Pump controller will prime / run for 5 minutes THEN sends power to the SWG/ Heater so they can power on. The SWG is powering on and functioning as normal...

and another

Visually everything looks OK it appears but obviously it must not be.....

another one

see pics - it appears the pool pump is powered through the breaker panel then out of the pool pump runs power to the SWG then out to the pool heater ...

Sorry, it worked the following day ..... then I forgot about it but now is not showing any power to the heater at all............ ?????????? It is connected through my Hayward salt water generator...

De-winterizing the pool today and upon start up the Jandy JXI Pool heater ( 400,000 BTU version) - will not turn on and displays the below bessage UIniversal Controller - UI FW Rev: 1.8 I am having no luck in determining what this error code means thanks

Live in NW Indiana - just opened pool this past weekend - results below FC-5 CC-0 CH-350 TA-110 PH- 7.5 Salt 2500 CYA - 0 I would consider these great result - question now is there anything else I need to do other than up my CYA ( have it ordered should be here within another day), add a...

Looks like Jandy is going to switch out pump under warranty - any pump experts that can diagnose this problem or did I just end up with faulty pumps?

Is there any Jandy reps on this board?

I have, no change. Sounds like bearings are shot. This motor is less than 2 years old and is the second motor in 4 years? This doesn't seem right?

Have a Jandy Pro Series 2 HP Variable Speed Pump - Pump began squealing then shut off. The Jandy control panel is showing FAULT Low Power? I have a video just not sure how to embed it into a post. What the heck

Pool looked good over the last few day but this morning not perfectly clear. FC - 8 CC - 1.5 TC- 6.5 PH - 8.0 CYA 80 What do I do to get rid of the cloudiness? How do I get the CC back down to .5 or less?

I struggle with the exact CYA - is the dot completely gone?? Or when you can barely see it?? IS there a more exact test

For some reason I was thinking my FC needed to be around 3-5 ? Is this because CYA is 80-100 range ?