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Thanks I’ll try the hammer before draining.

The screw to my pool light is fused shut with calcium scale or something. I can’t get it undone to replace the light that’s not working. Normally on a screw above ground I would use wd40 to loosen. Any ideas on how to get loose without having to drain the water below the light? Thx.

Thanks guys. Maybe my system is just a lemon. I’ll start checking out my options to replace this thing.

I’m soooo tired of dealing with the low salt, chlorinator off messages, or the hi salt warnings I’ve gotten over the years. And I’ve spent way too much money on bleach and salt trying to compensate for the times my system isn’t working. What can i expect to pay for a whole new salt automation...

Tried a bunch of different places and no one has the PCB-PRO board in stock. Wondering if there is some other fix I can try? When i opened it back up the fuse was not bad this time. I did find a PCB-MAIN board, but would love to fix temporarily and upgrade to the other board when available. And...

Thanks, you mean like this? Both of my panels have a heater button. Is the Prologic system less prone to this error occurring? Any other advantages to updating to Prologic?

Hello, I've read the whole thread about the Chlorinator Off High Salt/Amps message that appears on Hayward Aqua Logic controllers. I first discovered this thread a couple years ago, and was able to re-solder the K1 unit contact in place, and also replaced the fuse with a 15a as it was blown too...

Alright, good to know. Thank you.

It's 3E18156-205835

Oh, okay. Thanks. No sense in taking it in now then.

Less than 2 years! Yes i use K-1766. Can’t believe how many issues I’ve had with this system. Seriously thinking about looking into another brand.

Allen, i think you helped me when i was having issues with my clock setting and high salt warnings. I fixed those by soldering a couple points on the board. Anyway current readings are as follows: +25.81v +4.99a 80deg 2300ppm -25.64v -5.16a 80deg 2400ppm instant salt reading 2600 tested salt 3600

Has anyone had their cell put thru a diagnostic check at a pool store? What type of results do they give you, is it just whether it’s working or not, or something more detailed? I’m asking because i just cleaned my cell yesterday as it hasn’t been producing chlorine. It’s back to producing for...

Hey, just wanted to follow up on this and thank you guys for the help. I ordered the capacitor that was recommended and installed. While in there i also checked the K1 unit and there indeed was a burn mark on back of board and the solder point looked bad, so i resoldered. In addition the fuse...

Okay, i will once the rain stops.

-40.48V 10.01A 57 degrees 3000 ppm +40.07V +9.90A 57 degrees 3000 ppm

Yeah, i test with the Taylor and it’s within range. 3200. The salt reading on the controller is even saying 3000, but still giving me high salt/amps message.

Oh, thanks for the link. I’ll see if i can replace that capacitor. I also have the high salt/amps error, wonder if connected?

So in the last 2 days I’ve had to adjust the clock time on my Hayward automated controller three times. Not sure what’s going on, but i noticed it was wrong when the pump was running when it shouldn’t have been. It’s wrong on the remote box inside the house and also at the controller out on the...

I have a Zodiac G3 that gets stuck constantly on my suction grate thats on the pool wall. It just gets wedged in there as the grate sticks out from the wall a bit. Usually on the weekends when i see it i have to yank the tubing to release it manually. God knows what’s going on while I'm at work...

The control panel for my system that I have inside my home is frozen. See pic, it just displays Goldline Aqua Logic Display r03.00. None of lights on the buttons are lit up like normal, and when I press any of the buttons nothing happens. The main panel out by the pool is acting fine. Anyone...

Just wanted to follow up on this. I talked to Hayward and they would not extend the warranty on the driver. The authorized tech was able to get their supplier to honor it though, so i ended up only having to pay for labor. So pump is up and running again after 2 weeks of not working. Also found...

Thanks. When it comes to electrical, i don’t feel comfortable messing around, so prefer to let the experts deal with it. I’ll mention it to the tech though.

Thanks everyone, but I've tried turning the power off a few times and still nothing. When this first began happening the screen on the pump was at least lit up, but now it's not even on at all. I'll see where I get with Hayward on Monday.

Yeah, I'm talking about the TriStar VS. Wondering if their drives are compatible with each other? Thanks for the links.