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My Hayward 350HDN pool heater is 6 years old. Last fall it started giving me the HS code which means the output water is over heating as I can tell by the boiling water that created rumbling sound then shuts down. I have tested the ohms per the manual on the temperature sensor so the next...

Yesterday my Hayward 350HDN turned off and displayed the HS error code meaning the temperature is too high. I turned off the breaker and restarted it and though I had it fixed after runner fo a few seconds I heard a rumbling sound and it shut off again showing HS. After restarting it again and...

Just to update I replaced the gas valve before the control panel and the gas valve was the fix. I noticed that I could never smell gas when it went through the ignition cycle so I suspected that was the problem. Since i didn’t open the box with the control panel i can send it back.

I had the same problem with my 4 year old 350:Hayward. Start trouble shooting by taking out the igniter and seeing if it glows red when it runs through the start cycle. Then clean the flame sensor. If that doesn’t work you can check and clean the orfices. You need to turn the gas off. There...

I forgot to mention that I tried putting tape over half of the holes on the blower intake grate as suggested in an older post on this forum and that did not work either.

When I installed the heater five years ago I had a new bigger meter put in 1 1/2 inch pipe into the three-quarter inch inlet in the heater so I don’t think it’s a pressure problem when I’ve been cleaning the offices I turned it on and it comes out like crazy but thank you for the reply

I am reaching out before I take the leap on Monday to order $800 worth the parts I may or may not need. After spending hours researching this forum and others on the internet I have tried everything I can think of. The heater is natural gas and is 5 years old and has always fired right up but...

MKNAUSS, you were right, it was the filter! Even though I cleaned it with a garden hose it must have not been sufficient as it had been in the past. I removed the cartridge filter and ran it with no filter and the basket filled up to the top. I bought two new filters and the heater is running...

To am starting to think it is a pump problem maybe a cracked impeller or diffuser or something because I have no air bubbles after the pump starts running coming out of the returns. I plan on taking the pump apart and checking it out I hope I don’t ruin any seals any thoughts ?

Yes, I just cleaned the filter this afternoon. Thank you for your input.

I opened my pool Three weeks ago, turned it on and the pump basket filled all the way up with no air bubbles. Slowly through the last three weeks it’s been getting less and less water in the basket now it’s 2 inches below the top I tried isolating both skimmer lines and just have a half hour...

1) The 1 1/2 inch piece is threaded and allows 1 1/2 inch PVC pipe. 2) The reducer is 1 1/2 glue in on one end and I believe 1 inch female to accept the elbow 3) The male elbow is 1 inch threaded If at all possible, do what I did and go to the local hardware store a mile down the road and just...

Finally figured out how to post the picture, it's on my thread. If you need any further clarification just ask? Sometimes I confuse myself!

Here is a picture of the PVC fitting I used to screw into the return line after removing the winter screw in plugs. As I mentioned above in this post I plugged the hole of the elbow while making the switch from winter plug to this fitting and then quickly removed the plug and pushed on the 6...

See my post on page two of this forum. I am trying to post pictures now.

I remember researching this last year when I was going to open my pool and didn't find an easy answer. I would like to share what I did this year and if its already been posted somewhere I apologize. We all know its easy to stick a shop vac hose in down the skimmer hole because the water...

Thanks a lot everyone for all the replies. It really helped guide me through the fix. Aside from the diffuser issue it seems to have been a shaft seal so I ordered a seal kit and fixed it tonight. No leaks all is good! Thanks again!

It leaks on the underside of the motor between the motor and the seal plate. Is there a gasket between the seal plate and the motor, I don't see one on the drawing in the owners manual so it would have to be a shaft seal or cracked seal plate correct? What do I look for in a bad shaft seal to...

I'm having a lot of problems with my Hayward TriStar leaking more and more every day this summer so I decided to take a look at it after watching YouTube video and the first thing I noticed was the diffuser ring was worn at an angle and appears to have melted into the diffuser itself creating a...

Richard, Thank you! It got me thinking in the right direction. As I stated in the original post, I never run on low speed because I have a faulty intermatic dual switch so when I go to low speed I have to switch two wires around and it's a pain but now I remember switching the wire last fall...

I opened the pool last week and turned on the pump and the basket would only get half full and low pressure. I took apart all unions and the pump lid and drain plugs and inspected and relubricated with no result. After researching this site I suspected the pump lid o ring and ordered one and...

Thanks to all for your help on this. Since the season is over here I just am utilizing the 104 timer. Next spring I think I'll have a Hayward dealer install the automation system so I can run everything with my iPhone.

Sorry it took so long to reply, it finally quit raining so I've been putting my time into framing up the collar of the pool for concrete. Everything works as described in your last post except when the 106 is turned on with the low speed red only hooked up, it does not shut off. - - - Updated...

Yes, all motor leads were off

Ok, I believe I've been misinterpreting the ohm meter. When I touch both leads together it reads 0.00, when no leads are touched it reads 0.L. When I go from any motor lead to ground or motor casing it reads 0.L meaning no continuity correct? So my motor is fine? With the 104 on and the 106...

I'm confused, in an earlier post any reading ohm other than zero was a problem and now you say zero is a problem. I did another check and it is definitely 18 V between one and four. Thank you for your patience with helping me with this I'm just getting frustrated because the motor and pump...

Ohms between motor casing or ground an all three leads is 0, between leads os 22-30. Also when I disconnect black (line1) and red (a) I still get 110v from 1 and 4 on 104 but when I disconnect white( common) in 4,I get 18 volts between 1 and 4. Could it be a bad timer?