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Checking the salt levels is a good point. We've been pretty happy with the pool economics. We figure our operating cost is roughly $100 a month or $500 a season. Probably $30 electric, $50 tablets, and $20 in other chemicals (DE & Borax). We only need to adjust alkalinity and calcium at the...

So yeah, this is what I'm trying to wrap my head around. If I run a VSP at 150W for 24hrs that's 3.6kW at about 20.5cts per kWH daily rate, which is 74cts a day. If I run the legacy pump at 1600W for 5hs that's 8.0kWh but the overnight rate here is 12cts per KWH or about 96cts a day. So I...

Hi Everyone, So I have a legacy 30,000 gallon pool with 2 skimmers and 1 main drain. All 1.5 inch plumbing with Hayward DE 4820 filter, an old Jandy Lite 2 heater, and a chlorine tablet feeder. Our existing two speed pump seems to be overheating on the high speed windings, probably due to a...

Hi All, So we’ve had this heater for awhile and the past winter a rodent decided to nest inside. It chewed up and pulled down a fair amount of the fiberglass insulation on the inside of the firebox. Has anyone attempted to repair/replace the firebox insulation on one of these units? Looks to...

If you use paste thread sealer, just make sure it's the non-hardening kind and rated for pool chemicals such as chlorine.

This season, I'm going to try and open up a little earlier than usual and see if that makes a difference. I've often seen the TA in my pool drop a good 50ppm over the winter and maybe the pH drop 0.2-0.3. For those reasons, I try to close a little on the high side, pH of 7.5 and TA around...

Yeah, we have a Loop Loc cover that lets the rain/snow fall through into the pool water. Over the winter, it's not unusual to get over a foot of new water getting into the mix. Add to that that the rain/snow here tends to be on the acidic side. I'm sure that's a big part of why the chemistry...

I've heard comments that the Hayward face plates are particularly prone to cracking, especially if extra gaskets are used on top of the liner as well in order to beef up the seal.

Make sure to add some sink and sweep type of filtering aid. There could be alot of suspended dead algae gunk in your water making it appear worse than it is.

I've often wondered about this. Clearly, pool chemistry does not remain stable during the winter months after pool closing. The chlorine breaks down and I've often seen the alkalinity drop significantly as the dissolved carbon dioxide outgasses from the water over time. The pH drops as well...

Probably fine to add after the fact. You could use a bucket and dilute it in portions first, then add to pool with stirring. I suspect the algae doesn't grow at all during the winter in Canada, so the algaecide isn't really a factor until the spring when temps rise enough that the algae starts...

FYI, I discovered a neat little winterizing plug for dealing with the main drain. It's a typical rubber winterizing plug; however, it's also got a Schrader valve going through the plug upon which the wing nut screws. I tighten this plug into the main drain suction line and using a hand...

I have had a similar issue this year closing our pool. When blowing out the return lines and capping the pool side return inlets, I noticed that a small amount of air bubbled out from behind the inlet face plates in a couple of locations while the returns remained under positive air pressure...

Hey all, Wondering if anyone has any ideas on winterizing a booster pump return line for a polaris cleaner. Main issue is that the pump side of the return line has those quick connect fittings that work with the booster pump flexible hoses. I can blow out the line and cap it on the pool side...