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Thanks.

I added some more borax and acid to increase my borates from 30 to 50. My question is, how long should I wait before swimming again? thanks

I have the Pentair Intellibrite LED light and after having it on for about 10 minutes it starts shutting off and on. What could be the problem? The light is only a year old. thanks, Ken

thanks!

I shocked the pool a couple days ago because of CC level of 1.0. At what level of FC can I let the kids back in the pool? FC 15.0 CC 0 PH 7.6 TA 70 CYA 70 CH 325 Salt 3200 Borates 50 Thanks, Ken

Thanks for the recommendations. I just tested FC and it's at 5.5 and my CC is at 1.0 (just had my niece and 3 of her friends swimming for the week). I don't think the pool looks very green but with the CC, I shocked it tonight.

We've had a lot of rain and it seems to be getting a green tint.....could be my imagination though. The balance of the pool has been real good and haven't shocked the pool since we opened it 3 months ago. So I figured I'd try it for the first time.

Thanks for the replys. I'll do some homework tomorrow.

Thanks, I read pool school but it said to just add Chlorine and I wasn't sure if it was liquid or granuler. Is liquid chlorine cheaper than bleach or are they the same? I talked to the pool store today and they said the liquid chlorine was more expensive than the bags of shock treatment??

Also, I know nothing about chlorine and what types to use. Any recommendations?

I'm going to shock my pool. The Chlorine/CYA chart in Pool School tells me to use shock level of 30 (my cya is 80 and FC is 5.5). However, the pool calculator is saying to shock it at 21. Which one should I use? thanks,

Thanks for the responses. The surface is 2 months old.

Is it safe to use bleach when shocking a pool with a pebbletec surface?

Thanks to all the help on this site, my pool looks great and the numbers look good.......I think. :lol: FC 6 CC 0 PH 7.6 TA 90 CH 300 CYA 80 Borates 50 I'm trouble free!!

Just tested and salt is at 4200. The top of the band for Pentair is 4200 so I guess I'm ok and I'll just let it drift down over time. However, the check salt light is still on?? Go figure.

Thanks for the replies. Well, the guy added more salt to the pool and now I'm probably real high on salt. I'm guessing about 4300ppm but need to retest soon.

I'm using these strips to test my salt levels. The label says to read the top of white peak. Pool guy looking at the SWG today says to read the strip by seeing where the top of the white line is solid all the way across the yellow strip and read it from there, which is a lower reading. So is...

I think I found the problem. The drops from the R-0011L appeared to come out smaller and a bit thick. I shook the bottle up first and then put the 3 drops in and the test showed CH at 325.

Taylor FAS-DPD test kit. When I do the test, the R-0011L drops seem to come out smaller than the other reagents. Is that normal as well?

I don't get it. On top of the initial 5 cups, I added the rest of the bottle which was a total of 5 lbs. of Calcium and my CH is STILL testing at 275. Why is it not moving? I'm just dumping the granular into the skimmer.

I'm attempting to raise CYA from 50 to 80. Added stabilizer today and will retest next week.

I added 5 cups of calcium granular yesterday to increase CH from 275 to 300. Today it's still measuring at 275. Should I wait to restest again or add more? Had same problem with CYA. Added granular stabilizer last week and still no change as of today? FC 7 CC 0 PH 7.6 TA 90 CH 275 CYA 50...

Thank you.

I saw this chart in the Taylor Test Kit guide book that has you use a "Cyanuric Acid Correction to Total Alkalinity" chart to make a correction to your TA reading. Is this chart useful or no?? It drops my TA from 100 to 77 when applying that correction. :shock:

Done.........and again thanks for all the responses.

Thank you! Is CH ok at 300 then with the lower TA?

Keeping the PH at 7.8 and TA at 90 would give me a CSI of -0.1 or even allow me to lower the TA more with the water feature running. Is 7.8 too high though or should I keep it at 7.6?

Same problem with my IC40......"check salt" light on most of the time and salt tests at 3500.

My water temp is about 81F.

Would a higher TA help stop the upward drift of PH with the SWG and waterfall?