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PB4-60 is installed, and seems to be doing the job. Thanks again for the tips.

Thanks. It's on the way. I was wondering about the difference between InTheSwim on eBay vs. their website. The PB4-60 is $60 more on their Website. Their eBay store seems like a reasonable bet. Yes, I'm a PG&E (Piggy) customer too, so energy efficiency helps. Thanks for the information!

Thanks Allen @ajw22 - that's the direction my logic is taking me ...

My booster pump froze-up (smells burnt too) and I am looking for a drop-in replacement. I currently have a Pentair Boost-Rite LA-MS05 running my Polaris 280 (which replaced a Polaris 480-Pro). I am using the hose kit. I see some info (snipped pasted below from): Booster Pumps - Further...

Thanks. I haven't taken any action yet as the old 480 has been getting the job done, even with the broken upper housing. Where do you buy your rebuild kits?

Thanks for your somewhat biased opinion and background! Much appreciated.

Thanks @1poolman1 Will the 280 perform well when compared with the 480 Pro? I am having trouble finding details on the 480, but can see it has 4 jets and a stainless steel drive chain (vs. gear drive on the 280). My 480 Pro with the now broken upper housing handle is still picking up...

The blue upper housing (48-003) broke off my 13 year old Polaris 480PRO, again. The white lower housing also has a spot worn through (hole) in front of the front wheel, and the tires need replacing. It hasn't wagged its tail in a much for a while, but has managed to keep the debris cleaned up...

New flow sensor installed, salt reading now matches Taylor K-1766 results. Thanks all for the guidance. I just ordered some 10K temp sensors so one step closer to being ready for the "hack" next time.

Thanks. I'm "playing by the rules" this time, but will prep to be a hacker next time! At least now this makes sense. I wish the Pentair documentation would provide more details.

Thanks for all of the info. I cut the white wire, restarted, and the reported salt level went from 2250 to 3150. Water temp is down to 63F. 3150 is still a little lower than I expected (though 4 inches of rain could have diluted things since last week), but the Salt LED is green, which is...

Thanks for the details Jim. Sounds like a good test! I will try it once it stops pouring rain here ;-). -Scott

OK. Thanks for the tips!

Thanks JoyfulNoise. I see a few on Amazon, some with some reported poor quality. Do you have a link to one you can recommend? Yes, the plates had calcium that couldn't be removed with a jet from the garden hose...

Hello, I have been researching the forums regarding Low Salt level readings on IntelliChlor IC-40 units. My IC-40 worked fine through early spring, then I performed the acid wash procedure, and now salt level readings are always low: 2250-2350, and the Low Salt LED on the IC-40 is always...

Our Paramount O3 ozonator is not working again. I suspect the bulb. Does anyone know where to get these ? Google only shows one source, Polytec Pools. The bulb Part Number # 005-402-3834-00. BTW - the manual recommends changing the bulb every 3 years. Mine have been lasting about 9...

Good news. My IC-40 cell was replaced today. :party: I called Pentair on Monday (23 minutes on hold!) and explained the symptoms and actions (Red PWR LED, Green flashing CELL LED, and not generating). The company they contract with in my area called yesterday and they came out today and...

Looks like mine is a V1.9, with a Mfg. date of Jan '08. In addition to the PWR LED being red, the cell light is now blinking and it is not producing anything. I have had the salt level tested twice in the last 10 days, consistently at 3900. Everything else is in balance. And I have...

Thanks for the tips. Yes, I told the Pentair rep that there was disagreement, but didn't get anything definitive on the cause of the red PWR light. Yes, there are other pool stores somewhere, probably 25 mi. away. I should invest in the test kit that does a good job with these measurements as...

Thanks "grumpy". I called the company who installed the Pentair equipment for us and the service person indicated that the red PWR LED is likely the result of the salt level being too high. If I can lower the salt level, it might go back to normal green. (Replacing some water might be a way...

Thanks for the great tips and advice. Yes, I'm frustrated with the TA ... it started at 30 this season and even by starting with 1/2 what was recommended, it got too high too fast. Thanks for the tips on the warranty, I need to have someone come out and look at it. I do have the instructions...

I've just been taking a sample in to Leslie's. FAC 2.5 ppm TAC 2.5 ppm pH 7.6 TA 110 Calcium Hardness 325 CYA 60 Salinity 3200

Thanks ... it's not the salt level light that is the concern right now but rather the PWR light that is Red. How is the unit interpreting this, and is it taking action based on some issue it thinks it has? (I guess salt level indicator could be a problem if the computer inside thinks it is...

81 degrees F (started out today at 74 F).

My IC40 is about a year old and is now displaying a continuous Red PWR light. When I first power the unit on, the PWR light is green, but after the two minutes of cycling through the salt reading LEDs, the PWR light switches to red (when the salt level LEDs stabilize). I performed another acid...