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My pool looks fine and I don't have any algae anywhere (cleaned out lights and ladders recently) but I tend to do the OCLT weekly and I've noticed the past 2 weeks I have a loss of 1FC in 6 hours overnight. Can bugs and leaves getting into the pool during the night be enough to fail the OCLT...

Given you have no CYA you should use pool math to calculate how much bleach you need to get to 10FC and add it to the pool, retest FC 30 minutes later to ensure it held FC and you don't have ammonia. If it holds chlorine then you need to use pool math and figure out how much CYA you need to add...

Although not 40 vs 50 cya and I have a salt water pool... My recent experience with raising my CYA from 50 to 70 2 weeks ago on my salt water pool (pool temp 87 with about 8 hours a day of sun) allowed me to reduce the SWG % from 50% running for 8 hours a day to 10% running for 8 hours a day...

In use bubble covers are code per the NEC for any receptacle exposed to the weather.

With 0 CYA (I know you are currently adding) keep an close eye on the FC in the sunlight - it will disappear quickly... I had that happen to me when I filled my pool and it quickly turned into a swamp in a matter of 3 hours.

For it to be in use while raining it will require a "bubble cover" similar to this one (if you don't have one already): Bubble cover That will prevent the rain from getting into the GFCI while plugged in.

Hi Stacey and welcome! There are many experts on here that will have some better answers for you than I do but I'll put in my $0.02... #1 I don't have an above ground pool so I'm not sure of the best option on a better ladder but I have seen ones that you don't need to remove where the steps...

If you have a manual transfer switch then you can switch it to the generator setting which would disconnect both L1/L2 and the neutral, if it's an automatic transfer switch there may be no way to do it... Looking at my Generac ATS I don't think it will switch over if the generator is set to off...

I'm not a pump expert but I'll contribute my $0.02.. You may want to verify there is no debris preventing the shaft/impeller from turning or that the shaft is not seized in place due to corrosion. If you're already replaced the start/run capacitor(s) and the shaft spins easily then you may have...

I would avoid the pucks as they will continue to make the CYA issue worse, using liquid bleach/chlorine has no adverse effects on the overall water chemistry and will generally provide the least cost method for getting chlorine in the pool. You may want to consider a partial drain and refill to...

The likely source of what you are measuring is from harmonics on the ground/neutral wire from the electric company. When you cut the main breaker off it disconnects the "hot" wires but not the neutral wire which still remains connected to the electric grid. Depending on the type of generator...

Do your ladder anchors have locking bolts in them? Are they clean and tight?

The more often you can dose the pool with bleach to keep it above 16 FC the better. Below 16 you're not killing algae as effectively and the SLAM will take longer. You can dose the pool a bit higher than 16 to maintain 16 FC when you are not there but the higher you go over 16 the faster it...

Do you have drains in the deep end of the pool? Could be an issue with lack or low circulation down there.

The power company will probably tell you it's an issue with your pool, they'll never admit to anything ;) There has been debate about the connection of the bonding grid to the equipment grounding conductors in various forms going on. Usually the connection between the 2 is inadvertent and...

Stray voltage can come from many sources, it may not be your house, it could be something in a neighbor's yard or even a larger issue related to the power grid and undersized neutral wiring they used for years that can not handle harmonics produced by switching power supplies used today - in...

I am not a pool builder, EE and electrician in NJ... the pictures are of my pool remodel, I had to replace the old one which had steel walls that had collapsed inward due to age and the previous owner not keeping water in the pool.

Article 680.26(B)(7)(C) Pool Water - an intentional bond of a minimum conductive surface area of 5800 sq mm (9 sq in) shall be installed in contact with the pool water. This bond shall be permitted to consist of parts that required to be bonded in 680.26(B) Some wet niche light shells have a...

Wiring from the house would go to the LINE side. The connection to the hot tub would be on the LOAD side. Yes disconnect the heater and test again. The GFCI is now working as it should because there is a low impedance (low resistance) path to ground through the water bond. Before the only...

Depending on how corroded they are you may need something more aggressive like a sandpaper cart on a drill. If you use a wire wheel just watch where any wire wiskers that break off may go, you don't want them in the pool.

Two more pictures from the same pool install showing the rebar grid (one side) and the bonding connection (there are 4 total equally spaced around the deck)

Only the bonding ring is required to be bare for contact with the earth, in this case the rebar is acting as the bonding grid. If there was no rebar in the pool deck then yes it would need to be bare and buried 4-6" below grade. NEC Article 680.26(B) The parts specified in 680.26(B)(1) through...

Here are some pictures of a bonding wire attached to the anchors for a ladder and handrail before the pool deck was placed. All of the rebar was also bonded to the same continuous bonding ring. I would also say you can look up article 680 of the NEC, specifically section 680.26.

You are not wrong, the only connection to a grounding electrode should be made in at the "service equipment" which in general would be wherever the main disconnect for your house is located. In no case would it be connected to a remote sub panel neutral bar such as one located at the equipment...