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If you have somewhere to get rid of the old sand and/or it's really dirty, then its usually easier to replace the sand. You do risk breaking the laterals when you replace the sand, but that's an easy fix too. Getting the wet sand out is the only pain in the butt part. Trying to tip it over to...

I ordered a Hayward sand filter off of Amazon when my old one sprung a leak. Multiport on the top. Delivered in 2 or 3 days. All local pool store wanted more and were going to take longer. As for sand just make sure to follow what is in the filter manufactures instructions. Again pool store...

Adding a neutral should not be to difficult. Also make sure the smart switch you decide to use is rated for the watts of your pool lights. If it's an on/off and not a dimmer you should be fine, but always good to check. All the smart switches I have seen that don't require a neutral...

Thinking about your leak and my own past leak experiences. I don't have a warm fuzzy feeling that this is the only leak. For such a small hole and on the suction line I am a bit surprised the water dropped as much as it did in the time you noted. If it were on the return side I think I the...

Moving the filter a bit and maybe changing the orientation of the inlet/outlet. Also there should be a 6" to 12" of straight pipe before the flow switch. A vertical mounting of the cell probably going to help plumbing layout. You might also need to install a post to secure the plumbing to or...

If you have room to add a sand filter, I would add one (plumb it in parallel and not series) using a couple of 3 way valves in so you can choose which filter to use. This would also give you the option to filter to waste. Kind of the best of both worlds. Once the initial opening is cleared up...

I would guess it's just pushed in (not sure from the inside or outside). Below are a couple of images from the manual. 2006 and newer look like the strainer is threaded in. Kind of looks like the back side of the cap can be used to install and remove the strainer.

You have to weigh the difference in cost for replacing or rebuilding. I don't think the cost is that much to replace. But be aware that you might have to mess with the PVC plumbing if it's not easy to swap over. Or time to add some union to make servicing easier in the future.

Kudos for diying this project. I did this on my steel wall in ground pool, I can imagine how much more work it is dealing with concrete. Surprised to see copper, my pool is from a similar era (it's had a couple of sets of black poly line and a couple of sets flexible PVC and I replaced it all...

I would not trust this bucket test. Concrete is like a sponge. If that paver was not saturated before this test was started it's going to absorb water and make it look like the level in the bucket dropped more and make you think you have a lot of evaporation.

Lid on the pump, some threaded connected on the inlet side, the union the inlet is letting in the air. Or maybe a glue joint is failing. If any gasket is stiff, cracked, hard, has marks, etc replace them. Also look over the sealing surfaces, check for cracks, nicks, dirt, etc. Yeah looks...

Looking over your equipment image. Looks like you have somewhat restrictive plumbing. Three 1-1/2" inlet lines and one 1-1/2" return going though a DE filter and a heater. Should not be a contributing factor in loosing the prime. It might be a factor in purging all the air out after it...

The leak would be sucking in air, so not the easiest to find. It's unlikely that you would be able to tell from using soap and bubbles. If you could it would likely be a large leak that you could see or hear easily. When the pump is off is there any signs of water leaking from the pump...

Not filling and loosing prime suggests that there is a leak on the inlet side (sucking in air when the pump is running) of the pump or one of the lines supplying it. Could be at the union, one of the valves on the inlet side or pump. Replacing the seals on the pump is pretty easy and cheap. I...

A VSP would save money. A 2 hp or 3 hp VSP would be fine. The larger ones you will just have to run at a slower speed and you may not need to ever run it at max speed either.

I don't think there are many pool companies that are going to be interested in trying to resurrect a filled in pool. Like mentioned above, try to find out what was does when it was filled. If you're thinking of doing it yourself, still try to figure out what was done to it (to determine if...

Most likely it's a drywell that has finally filled with debris or plugged up with enough debris that it does not drain well anymore. A septic company should be able to pump it out and suck out the debris preventing it from draining well. If you're a bit handy, and don't mind some sweat equity...

A pump not priming usually means a leak on the inlet side of the pump or the pump housing. A rebuild kit for the pump usually comes with all the seals and is cheap and easy. As long as the motor run normal and the bearing are fine a $15 - $20 rebuild seal kit is all that it takes. Photos of...

I go with the theory of the simpler the better. I currently use Wi-Fi smart light switches to control contactors (just to eliminate an inrush issues with motors starting and the smart light switches not being able to handle it). I originally used TP-link Wi-Fi switches but they would loose...

I would bet the cable attached to light is not rated for direct burial and that it needs to be installed in conduit. So there needs to be a run of conduit from the pool wall up to a approved junction box (there is a requirement that the junction box has to be at least a certain distance above...

Also make sure the item that needs to be turned to set the voltage on the pump is completely turned. I had a motor that I thought was set to 125V and when I first started it, it was obvious it was not. It looks like it was set but needed to be turned a bit more. There is a chance of a bad...

Thanks gkw4815. I have plans to use a Wi-Fi controlled relays and/or contactors. Currently using Wi-Fi light switches to control contactors for my single speed pump and Stenner pump. I'll have to see if there is room for a two or three more Wi-Fi light switches. I'd like the ability to...

I am planning on going SWG and changing to a CircuPool, Black & Decker or Calimar VSP. I am aware that normally these pumps are intended to run all day or run most of the day then turn off and start the run sequence again the next day. Generally this would work for me but I would like more...

CYA does not go down by itself. Draining water and replacing is the only practical way to get rid of it. Reverse osmosis can be used, but costly if it's even available. The only other way I have heard of getting rid of it is if the pool basically turns into a swamp the the bacteria or algae...

You should be able to feel suction and pressure with you fingers on the inlet and outlets of the silicone tube after running the pump for a minute or two. Are the rollers spread out and compressing the tube fully? Is the tube old and hard and not able to be compressed enough to pump? Did...

any chance the weight is collapsing the tube or kinking it, blocking it? I'm not sure if you can push the tube in so far that it bottoms out and blocks off the tube. Another guess is that weight is plugged up with salts. Is the tube continuous from the pump to the the weight? Where it goes...