Search results

Yes, have the FAS-DPD now. When you shock, how many days does it typically take your pool to get in swim range again? Mine seems to (fortunatly/unfortunatly) hold the FC pretty well, and you can't swim above 10-11ppm, right?

Ah, my logic for diluting the sample was backwards then! Thanks for clarifying Yes, I have a SWG. The Pool Calculator says SWG FC could be as low as 4, with Normal at 6 to 11 and shock at 21. You sure about your proposed numbers, or am I doing something wrong with the calculator too?

All has been good for the last 6+ weeks, using DPD powder and keeping CH between 3.5-4.5. After our 4th festivities, it was time to shock the pool as I've been seeing some algea pop up on the stairs and baby pool area. Per the calculator, I added 4 jugs of 182 oz 6% bleach to get it up to...

Wow, thanks for the response Sean! It's the Low Amps/Cell? message I get. I'll check the cell tonight and take pictures of the cell cord. Is there an obvious way to know if I'm wired to 220 or 110? The circuit breaker is right next to all of my equipment. I called your support about it the...

Outside of the AutoPilot problem, this is very low, right? I have the same system and keep mine at 3500ppm

Yeah, I think that is part of my problem. I've got two Taylor kits that are from 2005. The FAS-DPD test is great. Thanks, all, for the suggestion!

I have an AutoPilot SC-48 that is now 4 years old. It's flashed Check Voltage from the first day I had it, but still reliably produced chlorine at an acceptible amount at Level 2, usually between 50 and 75%. This year, it's not keeping up. I'm now up to Level 3 and 100% and it produces some...

When heating I can open/close a valve which would either force all water through the heat pump or allow 50% to bypass it. Is there a clear advantage to forcing all water through it (ie, it heats substantially faster)? I'm assuming the increased pressure is a negative for everythinig else, and...

So you leave them hovering above the water rather than sitting on it?

I've got a kid's birthday party coming up in two weeks and I've failed the last two years to get the pool warm enough (per my wife's specs, not mine!) with our heat pump running 2-3 days in advance. I see the $100 roll in HD every time I'm there grabbing acid, but have never wanted to go down...

Just went and did another DPD and now its showing 5ppm. SWG is off so there is no way it could be going up. I think what I may be seeing is a reduction in the bleaching effect as the Chlorine is coming down, but it's still very high (25+). I'm back where the thread started, but it looks like...

Well, I just found this at the poolforum which is making me question it all again! So, perhaps I was using DPD correctly, but the results were bleached out making me think the chlorine had been used. Still doesnt explain the current results, though, as 5 drops of 1 and 5 drops of 2 give me a...

Agree with this approach now? 1) Take TA down from 80 to 60 2) CYA up to 80 3) Chlorine up to 3 (SWG) 4) Add Borates

Looks like I'm in the clear. For some reason my OTO test keeps suggesting Chlorine is super high (a 5 ml test calling for 5 drops of OTO) in that I can add just one drop to the 5 ml sample and it goes straight to an orangish color which made me believe it was 25+. HOWEVER, the Taylor DPD test...

PH was near 8 which I started bringing down but now cant test for it of course TA 110 CH 380 CYA 10-20 Salt 3550 At this point I'm using the OTO test. 1 drop in 10ml turns orange. I was (incorrectly) using the Taylor kit which uses DPD Regant 1-2-3 (I was testing after 2, not realizing that I...

Argh. I wasn't thinking clearly and tested for chlorine wrong while trying to shock with bleach. I thought my algea problem was so bad it was consuming what I was putting in so I kept putting in more. I finally realize somethings not right and start testing correctly, only to find that I'm...