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There's an in-line fuse in this heater (you'll notice a bulge the size of a small fuse in the middle of one of the wires). Track that down and make sure it's not blown. I don't have any info on the wiring to the motor, unfortunately. From the wording in the manual it sounds like a convertible...

The valve closest to the heater is just a bypass that allows excess water to go around the heater. As long as the heater is operating properly then it's fine as is (open), but if you start to get any overheating or waterflow issues with the heater you may want to close that valve. The valve in...

This is a problem with your airflow or the switch itself. Check to make sure the fan is coming on properly and that it's intake/exhaust are not obstructed. Be sure the blower pressure switch tubing is not broken or crimped. When the fan is on you can check for continuity across the blower...

Both Pentair and Zodiac make replacement booster pumps for the Letro and Polaris cleaner lines. The Polaris PB4 is the most common around here but the Halcyon is a little easier to service.

The two valves in connected to the heater outlet look like they control two different return flows to the pool. One is on, one is off. Do you have any water features or a cleaner port in the wall? The valve in front of the pump is a three-way valve. There's a gate on it opposite the handle...

If it's just standing still in the strainer then the issue is hydraulic (vs. an air leak which could cause the pump to lose prime when the suction head was increased). Any chance you could post a picture of your equipment setup?

When you ran it as described did you check the cleaner line to see if you felt suction there? If there's none then the line is dead or plugged and I'd be comfortable capping it off; if you feel strong suction then there's water going somewhere and you'd want to further investigate.

Don't have one on hand but the dimensions I see online have it at 8.8" long. I would have guessed 8" so that seems right to me.

Short of welding there's no great solution, and usually one pinhole means many more to follow so replacement makes more sense at that point.

The odds of that crack just happening to form where it is most vulnerable to external contact are too high. If it wasn't hit with the bolt I imagine someone braced something on top of those cross members. Maybe they were tightening a fitting, cutting a board, hammering something, who knows...

Are you in the US? Perhaps POOLS is just a rebranded product. The skimmer looks a lot like a Sta-Rite U3. The p/n for that weir is 08650-0022. Does your lid look like this one?

Re: Pool Pressure not going down even after getting new cart If you've got in-floor returns the fluctuation is normal. As the valve directs water from zone to zone the pressure can change. Does your pressure gauge go all the way down to zero with the pump off?

Does the pump lose prime and start pulling air when this happens or does the water in the strainer pot just stand still?

You've got a push-pull / slide valve instead of a multiport. It's the vertical tube next to the filter with the handle on top. To backwash you turn off the pump, twist the handle to disengage the lock and then pull it up into the backwash position, then turn the pump back on. Once it runs...

At least he changes it. I've seen horrible things... :(

Hmmm... That breaker looks ok to me. It does look a lot like a single phase double breaker but there's a pin between the switches and it's rated 40A which wouldn't be the case if it was the same phase on both sides. Either way the thing to do would be to test the incoming power termianls at...

That's a strange sound, but audio of bad bearings doesn't always capture very well. Does the sound pulsate like that when you're standing next to it? Bad seals tend to be more high-pitched and have a "faster pace" to them, if you will. Almost to the point of sounding like a constant noise...

Those high limit switches are wired in series so if you pull the two wires from the board that are labeled "High Limit" you should have continuity across them. If the circuit's open then one of the high limits isn't closing.

Take a look at AO Smith's instructions that I wrote down in this post. That's the basic rundown of what's involved. It's not incredibly difficult if you've got a bearing puller, the right bearings, and something to tap the new ones down.

I'd assume the 15v track is the same for both COM ports, but I'm not sure. The more likely problem is the amount of stuff connected. Pentair makes an expansion COM module (PDF) for $50. P/N 520818. I've never needed one but I also don't recall ever trying to double up on one COM port...

Have you tried wiring it to the other COM port? Do you have any other spa controls or COM devices connected? You should be getting 15VDC across the black and red wires (terminals 1 and 4) which should at least give you power/light I'd imagine.

Is the water flow through the heater ok? Make sure you see water circulating in the tub while it's trying to heat (jets off of course). If that's ok check the board, front and back, for corrosion across the terminals for the sensor connections. You should get a sensor error with either of...

D1 has a lot of manuals on their site that have wiring diagrams toward the end. You'll need to know your tub's model year though. If you can't find it, give them a call and tell them the serial number and they should be able to provide you with the year (if not email you the manual/diagram...

You'd need to keep it plugged into the circuit board but leaving the temp sensor exposed to the air and setting the tub to 104 would basically force the heater to stay on until either the high limit tripped or your home automation shut it off. You'd still need to turn it on and off daily to...

Correct. The heater resistance is constant. You could change the incoming power. All 230v heater elements are convertible to 115v, for instance, by wiring them Line + Neutral rather than Line + Line, so it's possible to vary it but your pack isn't made to do it on the fly. Some are...

Rather than being in any kind of sealed chamber, a suction side cartridge is usually just in a "well" for lack of a better word. Sometimes directly under a skimmer basket, but often just behind a weir like you see here. Collapse can be a problem if the filters get clogged up, but no more so in...

Carl, The simplest solution would be to do it the opposite of the way you've laid out. I'd put a contactor in between the heater terminals and the circuit board, powering the coil with your automation. You would then leave the spa temp set to 104 and control the actual temp with automation...

It's hydraulically more difficult for your pump to pull water than push it, so it makes more sense to put large strains like a filter on the pressure side. It's also less finicky as your filter accumulates debris for the same reason. That being said suction side filters are used regularly...

Re: Is this spa behavior normal (difficult heating when cold Is there automation running the system or are you just relying on the heater logic/temp controls?

(edit for safety!) DO THE FOLLOWING WITH THE PUMP OFF! Turn the breaker off to your equipment so the pump cannot come on while you are doing this! (end edit -Lershac, moderator) Removing the top of the valve is pretty simple. Start by removing the handle. There's a plastic retainer screw in...