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Yep, that's what I've been using (8.25%) and it works great. My wife just brought home a gallon jug of plain bleach, a no-name brand, so I'm guessing it's half strength, which is why I went looking for Chlorox, regular, concentrated. Now I'm back to using Dichlor until I get the CYA level up...

I figured 'Splash-Less' meant an improved bottle, but the bleach is like a syrup, and causes major foaming in the spa. The label otherwise looks just like the other Chloroxs, says "regular" and "concentrated". When I finally looked, the ingredients say Sodium Hypochlorite and Sodium Hydroxide...

Thanks Jason that helps a lot. I just assumed +/-pH 7.5 was the goal. BTW I find the PoolMath a very clever and useful program, as I learn a few of it's 'secrets'. I enjoy running "what if.." scenarios with fictitious numbers, to see how the variables interact.

I've learned how to lower TA by adding acid, then aerating to bring the pH back up. I understand that with normal use the pH will rise naturally so I've needed to add a little muriatic acid almost daily keeping pH close to 7.5 (or slightly below at times). I recently finished using Dichlor...

Mine is set to filter twice a day too and I can control how long each cycle lasts (you probably can too). I realized I could use the circuit breaker to alter the filtering start time but didn't know if the cycle would necessarily begin when I first power up, which makes sense. Despite the very...

Our tub has spray on foam insulation, directly adherent to the tub itself. Great stuff. It's probably the industry standard for quality tubs. There is also a plastic curtain around the tub, enclosing all the guts, which helps keep wind drafts out, but has no 'R' value per se. I think it...

I see. So even holding it at 85deg is worse than say 80 (the lowest the spa will go I think), to avoid any maintenance heating. My spa in on an automatic twice a day filtering schedule. I can set each cycle to last from 2 to 12 hours but not the time of day (as far as I know) currently set at...

I'm wondering how regular users of hot tubs, kept outdoors in winter up North, manage their heat/cool down cycle most efficiently. Our tub is new, a basic model but spray insulated to current industry standards (or to Nordic's standards) with a nice fitting cover. My wife and I soak most days...

Thanks for all the advice C.G. It's all falling together nicely. I feel like I finally have a good handle on the overall process, or at least ready graduate from first grade (not bad for an MD with a masters degree in biochem). The more I use the 'pool calculator' the more I'm impressed with...

Thanks Chem Geek. Would you please send me a Dichlor reminder in a month? ;-) After reading more about it on TFP I took the borax plunge (we keep 20 Mule Team on hand). I added 12 oz and enough muriatic acid to bring pH back down to 7.5. I think the pool calculator called for 15 oz for me...

If it's of any interest, one tablespoon of dichlor (SpaGuard brand, 99%) weighed 16.5 grams. At 28 grams to the ounce one tablespoon equals about 0.6 ounces (0.2/tsp). I'm shooting for a CYA of 30 by adding 2 ounces of Dichlor (by pool calculator), so I guess I'll continue using the Dichlor as...

Having refilled my tub with fresh water, and using muriatic acid to lower my high TA (250ppm) I am adding Dichlor as a source of CYA, as recommended. The Dichlor instructions recommended 1 tsp per 100 gal daily, so I have added 1 1/4 tsp per day twice now with an expected FC rise to 3 which...

Sorry, I got confused as to which forum I was posting to and couldn't find the one I thought I had sent, so I figured it failed. Also, contrary to my earlier statement, my pH tester does go down to 6.8, I was wrong. My fill water is pH 7.5 (what I meant by neutral) with TA of 250ppm. I've...

I just refilled my 250 gal hot tub, our water is quite high in TA (tests about 220ppm) but neutral. I understand the logic behind lowering the pH to 7.2 to lower TA but 'aeration' is not an option to help raise the pH back up. (It's too cold here to run the tub with the cover off.) Should I...

Thanks Chem geek, that answers a lot of questions. I just refilled the hot tub but I won't be able to add the CYA (via dichlor) till tomorrow. I don't suppose there is any alternate product sold at supermarket/hardware store that could be used to add CYA is there (the pool store is an hour away)?

The pool store clerk claims they have a computer that reads their dip strip, including CYA, which she call CIA. She also strongly warned me to avoid using household bleach, including Clorox, which she claims contain animal products.(!) I'm looking forward to the restart. Chem geek, I see what...

Right, I see your point. I hadn't noticed the 'Effects of Adding Chemicals' in PoolMath. pretty nice. Guess I'll dump and do over as you suggest, next time we're above 32 degrees for a day. Not many things in life allow such an easy do over. Of course I still won't know the CYA level in my...

Thanks Jason, makes sense. The goal FC is a 'range' (e.g. 2-4, 3-5) with a fair degree of overlap between the recommended range for high vs low CYA, right? Seems like in a small tub like mine, the effect due to my actual CYA level (a higher or lower goal FC range) would probably translate to a...

I'm switching over from Pristine Blue (copper) and after-use shock with Dichlor to the TFP system with BBB for my 250 gal hot tub. The tub is currently quite clear and clean, getting almost daily use. I've been reviewing 'Pool School' recommendations. Playing with the 'pool calculator' by...

Yes, I did notice the phrase "Nonpublic Health Bacteria" and wondered about that. I guess I'll stick with the chlorine product for shocking the water after use. It might be that copper inhibits the proliferation of the bacteria rather than killing them. I know of copper based paints being...

I should correct my statement about the Pristine Blue system relying on chlorine (sodium dichloro.....) to shock the system. Actually they use that as a backup 'extra' for heavy use, whatever that is. Their main compound for shocking the spa is potassium peroxymonosulfate ('PristinePower')...

I hear you Jason. They gave me the full kit (and kaboodle) for 'free' when I bought the spa. A $200 value they claimed.

Thanks for the advice. I reviewed the interesting links you offered. The Pristine blue system does use three other agents, one to stabilize the copper, the other to clarify. The third is a chlorine based shock, to be applied after each use. (and my hot tub has an ozonator too, FWIW) They...

Unfortunately I've already added the Pristine blue chemicals as directed, before reading your post. Now that it's in what would you recommend? Luckily I'm bald, but my wife isn't. What is your favorite sanitizing system for small spas? I'd hate to have to drain the hot tub and start over, but...

Thanks. I put in 1/2 oz of muriatic acid and both TA and pH fell to the normal range. Guess I can now proceed with the sanitation steps. They gave me Pristine Blue system to use so I'll try that. I was never a fan of chlorine.

Thanks, I agree and will order a test kit. It would be good to have a quantitative measure of the water's solutes rather than these qualitative colorimetric strips. I would take a water sample in to the dealer for testing but it's over an hour's drive away. Meanwhile I'd like to try the one...

I'm doing the testing myself using instant read test strips from the dealer. I have experience with pH test strips previously so I think I know how to read these strips. The pH reducer they gave me to use is sodium bisulfate but as I said multiple applications haven't budged the level of...

Hi. I just bought a 250gal hot tub and filled it with my hard but very good well water. Using 'Instatest strips' the alkalinity is in the 180+ range. As directed I've been adding pH decreaser (sodium bisulfate, " Proteam Spa pH Decreaser") by the tablespoon dissolved in water for two days...