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Thanks. Not sure what percent it is but I’ll check it out!

I’m struggling to find high percentage muriatic acid here in central Illinois. The stuff I find is $15 a gallon and low percentage. Am I better off just buying pH reducer at Walmart or the local pool supply or are there other options that I should consider?

All I can find these days around here is Kleanstrip and it’s really low % acid. There are labels at every store saying that it has a chemical that reacts with chlorine and it shouldn’t be used for pools. What’s up with that? And where’s a good source to get the good stuff?

You’ve been super helpful. Are you ok with me continuing to ping you about specifics this pool year or would you prefer I post to the group? Thanks so much.

K-1766

I followed Pool math for salt add and unfortunately I am now at 4400 ppm. Should I really release 18% of my water? Will this cause problems for my SWG when I start it in a week or two?

So I should just use bleach until my water hits 60 degrees before turning on my SWG? Is that a minimum temp in order to start it without harming it?

Thanks, Texas Splash. One more ignorant question. I assume when I start my system up I should run to waste to get the antifreeze out of the lines? I don't see anything in that article about that specifically. . . .

Can someone please send me to the best thread for this subject? First time this year doing it myself! Thanks!

I have a previously installed timer on my pump that my new SWG is NOT tied into. I notice that if my pump shuts off the SWG stops generating because it flashes the green “no flow” light. My question is whether or not this might harm it over time if I am timing off power for 6 hours every night...

My SWG says 2700 to 3400 ppm for salt level. What should I target? I see tf pool says 100-200 ppm over recommendation but the recommendation is a pretty big range???

I see the K-2006-C but I also see the K-2006 for salt water. Which is the one I want? Or do you recommend the tf100? Also--I have a tf100 kit that is about 3 years old (some of the chemicals were replaced last year but not all). Should I just start over or try and reuse what I have? I'm just...

I assume I need to add all of the salt that my pool guy who installed the system suggests FIRST, then get PH correct, vacuum pool, scrub, and THEN start the SLAM process with liquid chlorine?

Just got my new saltwater generator up and running for our pool opening on a 40k gallon above ground sand filter pool. What's a good timeline for getting everything in order? Pool is green as can be about 3 foot clarity with a 9 foot deep end. What is the best pool test kit for a SW pool?

We put in a new blue liner this season and I noticed that this latest SLAM has started to prematurely bleach an area in our deep end (9 foot) that I also regularly see dirt and debris collecting. So--in short, I will spend longer time pouring liquid chlorine in front of the return moving...

Any thoughts on why my ph climbs so quickly each week and I have to keep lowering with muriatic? Does CH or iron have something to do with that?

CH=430. I'll get iron when I have a chance to hit the pool store. I have less than 3 weeks to swim before it's too cold. I don't have a heater. I'm thinking I should just wait until end of the season and then dump water at the beginning of next year to remove some of the CH. How much do I need...

What would everyone recommend for a good test for iron and CH? If these are high (likely very high) what are my options for correcting? I am filling from a well and even with the filters the water is very hard.

I'm a 5th year TF pool user/fan and am a bit stumped on what's happening with my pool right now. I'll add my current readings below as well as some notes on clarity and other things I believe may be pertinent to my issues. I"m looking for help on what to do next as we have a big pool party...

Pool level has now dropped below my skimmers so that is ruled out as a leak source. Now I'm at the returns. Will it harm my returns for them to be pushing out water if they're not under water? Waiting to see if the leaking stops at the pool light as that is the only other place than the liner...

How do you distribute it into the pool each time?

About a week ago now my pool starting losing ~ 2 inches per day and at the same time my 7+ year old liner starting to wrinkle in various parts on mostly the floor in the shallow and deep ends. Pool is a fiberglass shell and vinyl liner. The liner pattern is nearly completely bleached out due...

Well water is pH 7.2 and TA 360 so very high yes. Does TA really matter?

I have the following readings 4 weeks into startup with addition of high iron hard well water on a weekly basis. Can anyone help me understand if TA is high what I should do differently and if that even matters? CC-.5 FC-2 TA-180 (rose from start of 100) CYA-10 PH-7.6

So I've already added enough CYA to up the amount to 10 (according to bottle directions) but it's still at 0. This is powder form. Regardless, all of my other readings have been in the right range for over 2 weeks straight (including CC below 0.5 and FC around 2-3) by adding about a gallon of...

Sorry 6.5cc

0.5 cc

FC dropped to around 3ppm after 1 hour (I forgot to check it) and I still had some left from the night before (from about 10ppm to 0.5). So, this means ammonia is not an issue? But I do need to add CYA since it's at 0. Is it advisable to do that while I'm SLAMing? I've already started the...

Why have I never heard of needing to deal with ammonia before? I will look for a test kit at the pet store and test first but what if it turns out I have an issue?

Chlorine levels are at 0 TA-130 PH-7.7 CYA-0 I vacuumed to waste, added 15 gallons of 10% bleach and algaecide. Krawler is doing its thing. What is ideal CYA and cheapest route to increase it? Everything else is good. I assume I need to do an overnight chlorine test asap?