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"... -Keep pool balanced under normal ranges (2-4 ppm FC, 7.4-7.6, roughly -PH, etc. etc.,)...." That's a safe bet. Keep your water properly balanced, and you won't get algae. Gee, who'd a thunk it?!

Have them test your CH (Calcium Hardness) level too.

"...and find myself using the small one with the R-0014...." I agree with that, Waterbear. I find the color differences much easier to see. The comparitor for use with R-0014 is the Taylor 9781.

If I can't get the TSP the idea is moot . I'll try to pursue the five gallon test if I can get my hands on some TSP when I travel out of state. Should I expect any difference in results if I use TSP*12H2O versus Anhydrous TSP?

That doesn't sound very practical, and is precisely what I was afraid of - high phosphates at the end. I'm wondering how a five gallon bucket test would turn out. Are the phosphate test strips sufficientl reliable for the purpose? My quick and dirty SWAG hints that I would end up with about...

My CH level has gone from 300 ppm to 500 ppm in a year, with only temporary and insignificant reductions as a result of rainwater additions. I attribute the rise of the CH to fill water concentrated by evaporation. Realizing that it won’t be long before the escalating CH will reach a tipping...

The cat who lets us live here and use her pool drinks from the pool at least once a day. Not large quantities, just sips (its a saltwater pool!) It hasn't seemed to bother her a bit. If I had an animal that drank large quantities from the pool, I'd try keeping a bowl of fresh water out there in...

What a great success story - thanks for posting it!

Small world, huh Gary?! Thanks for the tip on Caracolillo. I'll be sure to check it out. We've been going to Fresh Market in Carrollwood and paying $9.99 for beans of unknown age. It would be nice to have a source here in Spring Hill, but first we need to get a decent bookstore for crying out...

"...are you correlating pH and high CH...." No, Dave - I don't think you're hijacking the thread at all. I don't mean to imply that the increase in CH has made the pH rise. I'm saying that when I observe a little milkiness starting in the water that my pH has risen to 7.8 to 8.2. When I add...

I was spoiled when I lived in Charleston. I could go to Whole Foods and get freshly roasted beans. From where I am now, its a 45 minute drive to get beans of less than mediocre quality. If the Tampa area has a source of good beans, I've not found it. I use a Capresso maker and a Capresso...

My CH level has risen to ~500 over time, and dull water is my signal to check the pH. Invariably the pH has crept up, and a little muriatic acid restores the water clarity. We've been having a rainy spell lately, and I'm going to check the CH level this afternoon in hopes that it has declined some.

I've never noticed any bubbles. I know the SWCG is working properly because it easily maintains the chlorine level. I'm feeling left out....

If 'conditioner' is 'stabilizer' or CYA, be careful about which chlorine tabs you're using. If its 'stabilizer' (CYA) and you're at 100 now you don't want any more. What kind of tabs are you using, and is 'conditioner' stabilizer or CYA?

Buggs, there may have been metals in the water seven years ago. I'd recommend treating the stains as though they were from metal. It won't hurt, and it may work.

Holy mackerel! Is there a rational explanation for that pricing?

Its interesting that his face is so dirty that he feels the need to wash it in your pool, but he doesn't bother to wash his dirty face before he leaves home to go visiting. I don't think his mama raised him right.

Are you using a 'skimmer sock'? Cleaning your cartridge every week or so seems like a lot of cleaning. A 'skimmer sock' looks like a really short woman's knee high hose. It stretches over the skimmer basket, and catches a lot of debris before it gets to your filter. They're about $7.50 per...

I'm with Rangeball. I shock when CC exceeds 0.5 ppm. I've not shocked yet this year (knock on wood). I have a SWCG which is set to maintain FC at 2.0 ppm, and I keep the borate level at 50 ppm.

I've got mine - right here! I think I'll go make another pot....

Lamotte borate test strips can be ordered from: http://www.lambertshomeservices.com/index.html I paid $10.00 for a bottle of 25, plus $2.06 for mailing.

I found the Lamotte borate test strips here: http://www.lambertshomeservices.com They're $10.00 for a bottle of 25, and my shipping was $2.06.

That's a lot of bleach for your pool size, Rob. What strength bleach have you been using? What test method are you using to determine your Cl level?

Dave, how did you measure the borate level? The Aquachek strips are very difficult to read accurately. Dilution is probably the cause of any loss.

The cat who lets us live here drinks the pool water, and it hasn't bothered her.

Pinch-a-Penny charges $13.99 for a 4 lb. bucket. But they charge $9.99 for a 40 lb. bag of salt! So I buy my salt elsewhere.

Jason, I've been running 80 ppm CYA, 2.0 ppm chlorine, and 50 ppm borates for nearly a year with no problems. I did have combined chlorine of 0.5 ppm one time after the first heavy rain of the season, but it went back to 0.0 ppm after a couple of days. Before I added the borates I ran it at 4.0...

Have you added any chlorine in the past 10 days? Have you tested for combined chlorine - what was the result? How does your water look? If you have been adding chlorine, and can't keep up with its consumption, you've got something like algae using it up. I've never noticed a temperature rise...

From an ROI perspective - no. You have to want a pool for other reasons. If those other reasons don't seem to be compelling enough for you to make the investment, and commitment to ongoing maintenance - you're better off doing nothing at this point. You may or may not derive a lot of enjoyment...

"1st- The Actual Cell must be installed higher than the filter." Michael, I'm curious about why you'd say that.