Search results

look also at the supply houses catering to your local electrical contractors.

Jonas, Sorry to see this setback. Don't toss the liner! Save it for repair pieces if something similar happens again. Glue is fairly inexpensive compared to a complete liner. I'm certain you would be able to think of a way to reinforce the next liner with pieces from this one, now that you...

There are adapters available to convert your pool to either an Intex pump/filter set or a regular pool pump/filter. Check Amazon for these. If you go with the Intex, get the largest they have available. For a regular pool pump/filter set, check your local swap shop/craigslist for deals on used...

Welcome to TFP! You really need one of the recommended test kits. Either the TF-100 or Taylor K-2006. Accept no substitutes. The money spent on the test kit will more than pay itself back in knowing exactly what is going on in your pool. Test strips go bad in only a few months, and pool store...

Drain and refill is usually what a pool store will tell you to do when they are out of ideas on what new chemical potion to sell you, that won't do any more than the rest of the junk they've already gotten you to buy. No need to do it if you are still keeping your pool maintained the way we...

The basic premise to having your own kit is accuracy in testing. We have found that pool store testing is quite frequently off by quite a bit, especially on the CYA test. You can't do a proper Overnight Chlorine Loss Test using pool store testing. The OCLT will tell you if there is a problem...

Welcome to TFP from just up the road! I like your minimalist approach to the hard plumb. Did you use the original Intex holes? I'll add my voice to getting the TF-100. You won't find a better kit anywhere.

Your water can be clear, and still have something growing in it. Do you have one of the recommended test kits? Your use of the word shock makes me wonder. Please post the numbers.

Could it be you have something growing in your pool? Your description suggests this. Can you post a full set of numbers, including an OCLT?

My first best guess would be the capacitor (if it has one) is getting flaky, about to completely quit. Second best guess would be the start/run switch is bad, so you are running on the start windings only. This would cause the pump to overheat, but usually quicker that 10-15 min. Check both...

Welcome to TFP! I've already replied to your pump question. Here you will find a great group of people to help you understand your pool, what it needs, and how to keep it looking good and working well for you.

It would be helpful to know what Intex pump you have. The answer will depend entirely on this info.

Can I add a short post here? Link to a youtube video of one of my 3 dogs: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2osaCD2yYVw

If you haven't already, go ahead and purchase this. Yes, you need a better pump and filter system than what Intex offers. First thing I would do is order the proper seal and O-ring kit for that pump, and look at ordering a spider gasket for the vari-flo valve. Both are easy to install. You...

There is a great little guide in Pool School: http://www.troublefreepool.com/content/129-how-to-lower-lowering-total-alkalinity

Before plugging or draining, I'd suggest start digging following the pipes to the pool. The break may not be close to the pad. The reason I suggest not closing off the returns is it would then be very obvious when you get close to the leak. Hopefully it isn't under concrete!

You can have a look at what I did to my Franken-Intex pool for hard plumbing.

Simplified explanation: The PVC cement used for chemically bonding PVC pipes has certain aggressive modifiers to "break through" the hard outer skin of the pipe, which is not present in PVC pool liners. These modifiers are likely to be too aggressive for a pool liner. Might be worth...

78 this morning, expect about 82 this afternoon, without running my heater.

In a previous post, there is a link to SLAM your pool. Once you have your pH down to around 7.4, slowly add 5 of those 12 gallons to your pool in front of a running return. wait 1/2 hour, test, and add more bleach using pool math to reach your SLAM target. Check again in another 1/2 hour, and...

<--------------------------- With this one, I've probably broken the interwebs.........

Welcome to TFP! I see in your intro thread that you are planning to buy a proper test kit, that is a great first step. Your algae problem is easily fixed. I'm sure you have read a lot of Pool School, so you already have this in mind. Since you are going to be replumbing and doing dirt work...

Have you considered getting a few adapters like these and hard plumbing the extensions you need?

25 gallons of bleach later, I now have FC that is holding. Not hint of green, and no unexplained rise in filter pressure. All I can think of is that I now have no CYA, haven't tested that yet, water is still too cold. This in a pool that hasn't even been refilled from last fall's drain down, so...

I'm a bit late to this thread, but I think you have a good idea, Jonas. I think it would work, and last quite a few years. Since I don't have an SWG in my system (yet --considering it though!) I can't say anything about the metal frame rusting. Yes I know you are not using that, but that was...

Have you tried deep cleaning your sand filter? It could be that it has channeled and/or has a lot of gunk in it that prevents a thorough backwash. In either case, the DE would still do as expected, and raise your pressure. Sand really doesn't need to be replaced. As long as you do a deep clean...

Since you posted pool store results, can we assume that you don't own either a TF-100 or K-2006 test kit? Very strong suggestion: If you don't have one, get one. Like everyone else here that bit the bullet and bought one, you will wonder how you got along without it. Most everyone here knows...

I agree with woody and kim. That looks patchable, if you have material enough to have the first patch at least 4" longer than the hole. Then apply the second patch over that one the same, 4" larger in all directions than the first one. Fun part for you will be to suction all the water from...

Dave's current sensing relay would be a better deal for you. Essentially the microcontroller would be doing the same thing, sensing the motor current for your pump, then adding however long a delay you wanted before turning on the stenner for the time you specify.

Great timing on your post. I'm working on a similar system for my own small pool, using parts on hand. I'll be sure to stay tuned to this thread. Have you considered using a microcontroller to interface with your (her) Intelliflo system? Shouldn't be too hard to implement, with a relay to...