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Fronobulax, i have the same board as you (with the larger surface pad). I was afraid to use too much heat as the components around it began to get hot. I ended up snipping the posts and soldering the new limiter to the old posts. I hope it maintains a good enough connection and i don't burn...

yes, i've read the thread... seems my symptoms are very similar to others who have had success replacing the limiter (but not all). I suppose it's worth a shot...what's the worse that can happen...i end up needing a new circuit board?! (so i'll just be out an additional $6)

We're in AL. Water temp is 77 (we have a heater). Flow is ok...blinks "no flow" as it is supposed to for approx. 20 secs after pump is turned on...then no flow light disappears. after looking more at the circuit board...the "current limiter" has a think crack around it allowing it to separate...

Aquarite system; t15 cell; 20k gal pool; 3300ppm salt; 1.5 total chlorine; 0 free chlorine; I added the recommended chemicals (conditioner) and ran system on super chlorinate for 24 hrs as recommended by pool store... after 24 hrs, noticed that neither power nor generating nor super chlorinate...