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replace the whole top assembly. Removing the spider gasket is a PITA. You can end up ruining the assembly from fighting with the spider gasket so save time and replace top assembly. Unless you are lucky and the gasket comes out and leaves no debris that you have to scrape out.

Do you notice any of the teeth on the components chewed up? The metal rod that turns the gears on mine was stripped so I needed to purchase the rebuild kit. I was surprised that the metal plasrod was stripped and no damage to the plastic gears was visible.

I probably removed around 20 full baskets of heavy debris. The rest is what makes its way out of the netting. I think if I wait for the pool to clear a little more I can vacuum to waste so I can try to save water.

Tornado made a huge mess in my pool that I just recently got ready for swim season. I got most of the cedar debris with my net and what ever the Polaris was able to get. I will need to vacuum the rest out. I'm unsure of the setting I should put the valve on. Thanks!

Triton II filter and 125 GPM Max Flow valve has head loss of 8.5 psi. The pressure on the gauge seems to be the same as when I had the cartridge filter.

I just started mine a few days ago. We got a ton of rain the past three weeks so I felt it was time with clear forecast ahead. Also to take advantage of the cool weather keeping pool water cold to keep chlorine in the pool longer.

I recently switched over to sand filter from cartridge filter. I'm not sure if that has anything to do with the low pressure from the one jet. Another issue also arise after the switch. The baby pool which sits higher than the pool itself empties when the pumps are off. Seems like water is...

Nice! Pool built in 1957. How many times has it been re-plastered?

I'm not sure. Ive been adding chlorine daily now that i have a little more free time. I'm going to have to slam the pool though. I'll do the over night loss test then. I'm sure I see black algae.

I automatically fill the pool myself when the water lever begins to drop.

Oops. 50 to 0.

I've been very busy for the past three weeks. Terribly to tired to maintain the pool. I have been doing only the very minimum as far as adding chlorine. There were times when I would not add chlorine for two days straight. Anyhow, there was never some huge algae bloom. Could it have been that...

Thank you. So what's your process when testing for CC's? Why am I not getting any change in color?

Yes, I see black algae. I have not bothered to check the FC loss overnight because I am aware something is there. Yes, my FC has dropped below 7.5% of my CYA of 40ppm on numerous occasions when I come home to a pool full of people on days that require a chlorine douse.

I'm not SLAMing though.

I'm not SLAMming. Just weekly testing. I related the reagent 3 test as a white blood cell count. If the white blood cell count is high, then perhaps there is an infection. If the CC's exist, perhaps there is something growing. IDK.

When I get the FC reading and add reagent 3 for the CC reading I can not tell any change in the color. I know something is growing in the pool. Why cant I see any change in the CC's? Am I misunderstanding something?

Do you have filters on your well system?

check the gasket in the multiport valve.

What does the recirculate setting do? What is happening in the filter on that mode?

FC 3 CC 0 pH 7.2 TA 60 CH 260 CYA 40 I have considered adding borates. I was waiting to get the pool balanced and stable then to observe the pools look and feel before I added any borates. I want to be able to tell the difference.

It's been a while since I have studied volume and area. Is there an easy way to tell what level the water has to be to determine how much water is drained?

I don't have a spa but I do have a baby pool spill over. Three square cut outs from the wall that spill water into the pool. I assume that's plenty of aeration.

No strips. I use the Taylor test kit. I understand the pH scale.

3rd season for the pool. Unless I get muratic any cheaper, I can possibly spend $120 per season for acid. Ill drop TA.

FC 3 CC 0 pH at least 8 TA 110 CH 260 CYA at 40-50(added stabilizer to raise cya from probably 10 last week). Is this the nature of BBB? Adding 3/4 a gallon every 2-3 day's(muratic acid)?

I think only cared about getting paid.

When we originally had the pool installed, the builder said to put the pucks in the skimmers. Have not used any pucks this year though.

To control the parameters are you suggesting I use the chemicals within the BBB? If yes, please explain. If no, please explain. :-D

So if I use trichlor pucks, I raise the cya over time and use less muratic acid? What kind of rise in FC will cause pH to fall? Would it hurt to throw a trichlor puck in each of the skimmers to control the pH? Thank you!