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-Skimmer to pump is about 4 feet of PVC. -Pump to filter about 3 feet of PVC. -Filter to return is about 4 feet of PVC. The pump is on the ground directly behind skimmer by pool wall. Probably 4 feet below water level. Also, the valve has a max flow rate of 75gpm not 62. Double checked.

I wasn’t sure of my head loss, I just posted that spec to give you guys around about GPM. Is there an easy way to calculate headloss? I’m actually curious of what GPM I am running. I’m also using 1.5 inch PVC and 10psi after backwash.

So I’m using a 2-speed 1.5HP Hayward Powerflo Matrix pump and a Hayward s244T sand filter on a 22,000 gallon above ground pool. I have a small question regarding this. I have one skimmer, and one return. The pump is rated at 91GPM at 10 feet of head. However, my filter has a flow rating of...

Yes, it is. CYA: 40 FC: 7 TA: 70 PH: 7.2

Fine particles, I have a slight haze in my water.

Just got off work and checked the pressure. It has gone DOWN 1 PSI. What the heck?

Did you notice an increase in filter pressure when you first added some? How many cups did you use?

It’s still the same pressure after 6 cups. I’m dumbfounded.

So I’m aware on how to add DE or DE substitute into a sand filter, and to add a cup until you hit +1 PSI on the gauge. I added about 6 cups of cellulose fiber to the filter, which according to my experience with other pool owners typically takes 2 cups for for the PSI to raise by 1. I also...

Liners don’t really have a specific life. The life of a liner depends on many different variables, such as: Amount of direct sunlight How well you monitor and repair Insects Chemical balance Etc. An average life for a liner I would say anyway in above grounds, is 5-6 years. You can get more...

What you said about the inside of the wall is spot on. Rust near the bottom track is typically one of the first areas to rust on metal sided above grounds, it’s quite common. It could be do to condensation, repeated rain exposure, or just moisture from the ground. I would start with some high...

Assuming you’re just using a standard padlock to lock your ladder, I did a quick search on Amazon and found the top rated one. The item ID number is: B01149YWSQ. It’s got plenty of positive reviews, and it’s quite affordable.

Haha that gave me a laugh ?. To think, I used to love lazy rivers!

Brushed entire pool, vacuumed entire pool twice(once in the morning, once in the evening), added enough chlorine to keep it at shock level, replaced my backwash hose, backwashed filter, and added DE substitute to my sand filter.

As previous posters have stated, get your water filled to the point of circulation. We at TFP don’t endorse the use of algaecides as they simply aren’t needed with proper water chemistry, and they have nasty side effects of use age. With proper sanitation levels, algae and other contaminants...

I’ve heard of members using tabs as a last resort if no one can look after the pool for whatever reason. Just be sure to calculate how much CYA they will add to your water. As you know, the higher the CYA, the higher the FC you will need to get the same effect. The SLAM idea doesn’t sound too...

I’ve heard of above grounds lasting 15 years. It really depends though, on location, weather, humidity, and more. The biggest thing with above grounds is wall integrity and the only way to truly see what shape the walls are in is to pull back the liner. Every liner eventually gets holes, and...

Looks fantastic! If you haven’t already, test that water! I want it to stay looking good!

Agree with above poster. Check to see if it’s actual sand, pollen, or algae. Pool filter sand is very coarse. It’s not like play sand as it has to have the jagged edges and imperfections to filter the water. If it is actual pool filter sand, the most common issue is a broken lateral or...

Find out the brand of main drain you have, it should be somewhere on the actual unit.(if possible). If you have the brand name, go to their website or contact them somehow asking for the “adapter” you need.

I patched the hole under the water line, but I don’t have any holes on the actual pool wall rusted through yet. Just moisture on the actual rust spots. I’m just hoping the rust hasn’t damaged the structural integrity of the pool wall.

Directly above this section of my pool there was a hole about the size of a penny under the water about an inch. I’m not sure how long it’s been there, but this part of the liner isn’t directly against the inside of the pool wall. Also did yours collapse?

@zea3 on the outside of the wall the rust spots are moist. Does that mean water has penetrated the wall?

Well I found what has been causing the rust. Immediately on the inside of the liner where the rust is are two holes. The other is about an inch under the water. I also measured my pool to check the leveling, and found out it’s out of level by almost 2 inches and THIS is on the side that is...

Welcome! Echoing what jblizzle said, go over the Pool School section of the site and familiarize yourself with each chemical and how they interact with your pool water, and what they do. There is also a Pool Math Calculator you can use on this website. It’s very advantageous!

Echoing what everyone else has said, avoid algaecides at all costs. The poly type is best one to use as it doesn’t have metals or ammonia, but it still isn’t necessary if proper pool chemistry is maintained. Even if you have an algae bloom, you can easily knock it out by SLAMMING your pool...

Thank you everyone for the prompt replies. So are you guys leaning more toward safe? Or? I also like how on the main parts page they have a warning to inspect your pool walls for rusting. Wish I would have known to research before purchasing a pool for brand reputation.

I would imagine the ground cloth but I could be wrong! Maybe someone else can chime in?

I also just went out there and poked it relatively hard, and the wall did not break or gave way. The wall flexed inward, and then returned to its resting position after I relieved pressure. I just got rust on my finger.