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Following the guides here on the website, I should target CYA of 75 and FC of 5-6 (minimum of 3). When using the Pool Math app on iOS, it shows my recommended FC should be between 4 and 11. Which should I follow? Is 11 really an acceptable level?

What's the best way to do this? My pool has an auto-fill and auto-drain setup so it already drains itself. Is the idea to manually drain some before the rain so that we are not draining a higher percentage of the newly added rain water?

Yes, that is the process I am following.

Yes, I am in the Jacksonville area. As mentioned in my original post, I tested the water coming out of my sink with TF-100 and got a reading of 425. So that sounds accurate.

I should mention in the months of using pool store testing leading up to my switch to the TF-100 last month, their tests were consistently in the 400-500 range. This too made made me question my TF-100 testing. I have some AquaCheck test strips lying around so I tried one of those to have...

Hi all, Still pretty new here. I finally finished slamming my pool and getting my FC and CYA situation under control. I am now turning to, what appears to be, my next issue: Calcium Hardness. Here are the results of my latest tests: PH: 7.5 FC: 6 CC: 0.5 CH: 850 CYA: 60 TA: 60 As you can...

I just dumped it directly into the skimmer, as instructed to on the bag. I haven't done anything that would rid water from the pool. Maybe I need to just wait a week or so and test again, as suggested.

Wanted to post an update here. I have completed my SLAM and the pool is no longer losing FC quickly. I don't know what was in the water, but it took about 7-8 days of SLAMing (~12 gallons of liquid chlorine) to get rid of it. I kept FC levels at 10-12 during that time and CYA was left at ~0-10...

These are not refillable. I toss them in the recycle when done.

None that I can find. Well at least we know it is on or sometime after 09/21 then :) Would that he considered “old”?

I found this stamped on the bottom on the bottles. Seems like it might be a date code for 09/21?

I can't find a date code. I'll see if I can get some from Home Depot to compare with, but I am pretty loaded with this pool store stuff for a while.

Did a true overnight loss test last night. Tested my water just before bed @ 11pm and had FC of 12.5 (I had added some liquid chlorine about 30 mins prior). Checked this morning at 6am (I have little kids, so no sleeping in here :laughblue:) and FC is at 8.5. So we lost 4ppm of FC over 7 hours.

I tested it at 9 and my target was 12, which I put into Pool Math and adjusted for. 30 mins later the FC reading was 10. It's entirely possible that this chlorine isn't full strength. I wouldn't think it was old, having bought it from a pool store where they sell this stuff all day long to...

The pool is not covered. Just has a screen enclosure around it. I read the following in the pool school article on SWGs, which is why I thought it might be helpful to have it on. It is my understanding that all we're trying to do here is keep the FC level up above the SLAM target, so the SWG...

Indeed. Should I turn the SWG back on to 100% to help maintain FC levels during the SLAM?

After correcting 30 minutes ago to go from FC 9 -> 12, I am now reading FC 10. 🤷‍♂️ It is cloudy out today so I don't think the sun is beating down too hard on the pool. I am adding 3.75 cups to try to go from FC 10 to 12 now.

I just noticed that the bottle actually says “provides 10% available chlorine”, so I will adjust the pool math to that, but I don’t think 0.5% will make a big difference.

Yes, bottle shows 10.5%, which I set in pool math. I just tested again after 1hr 10 mins and had a 3ppm loss (9 when the previous target was 12). I will test again after 30 mins this time (in 15 mins).

How long do I need to wait after adding chlorine to test? Don’t I need to wait for it to mix with the pool water for a little while to get an accurate reading? I am just going off of the pole volume number given to me by the builder. From what I read, PH testing is probably not accurate right...

I topped things off at 10pm to get the FC back up to 10 again. Did a test this morning at 6:30am and FC is at 6.5, so a 3.5 loss overnight. I added what liquid chlorine I had left (1.66 cups) to bring it to 7.5 ppm. Will head out to the store here soon to grab some more so I can try to maintain...

Adjusted PH down to 7.3 in preparation for a SLAM. I only have 2 gallons of liquid chlorine on hand today, so with my CYA at < 20, I thought a SLAM FC target of 10 ppm might be enough? I got mixed results on researching if I should attempt to raise my CYA to 30 before the SLAM, but decided to...

I go have three little boys that swim daily over the late spring through summer and early fall, so it wouldn't surprise me if lots of bodily fluids have been making it's way into the pool :laughblue: I will try it this evening and see what I find. Maybe the Overnight FC Loss Test (OCLT) too?

I am not sure. It's just what the pool builder instructed me to do during the hand-off. And the pool store also suggested it so I figured it was necessary. I thought it was something that was suppose to protect the plaster finish from staining. Maybe we're past that period now? Should I stop...

- I have city water - No, just the SWG and liquid chlorine jugs from the pool store. - I posted them above in my original post (with some commentary since this was my first time). Did I miss something?