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Thank you both. That is all quite helpful and what I was after. I’d like it all in the one box but it doesn’t appear all things are equal here. To purchase each of those individual components looks to be the more pricey and time consuming route. So, leaning heavily toward the power center now.

It appears you can add the power center OR you could just add the additional parts that are found inside the power center to the EasyTouch panel. The transformer, board etc. All things being equal, I’d just prefer to put it all inside the EasyTouch if possible. The main part I can’t seem to find...

Is that easier than adding the Intellichlor board/transformer to the EasyTouch?

Hello knowledgeable TFP people! Cutting to the chase: I have a system that was installed less than 2 years ago. Control panel is a Pentair EasyTouch 4. I’ve decided to convert it over. I purchased an IC40 and today I cracked open the panel to check it out. Lo and behold I don’t have the...

This will be the last I’ll bang on this but after just a few days of experimenting and emailing back and forth with Taylor, I’m just convinced DPD-FAS is the only way to go. I just did a few more tests this morning with both methods and did each twice. I’ll add a photo of the DPD test. I think...

Not a huge difference between the DPD reagents but looking at the bottle the “older” one exp on 6/22 where the new one says 9/22. With the older ones I would have probably read it at ~4ppm. The new ones maybe 4, but maybe just a hair darker and closer to 5ppm. With the DPD-FAS I again got 12...

This is what I have. Curious after reading that if my 0002 is a little old. I have brand new 0001 and 0002 so I’m going to compare those tomorrow.

@proavia Hey there. Fixed the kit up with the FAS-DPD reagents. I’ve now done this 3 times. Twice yesterday (wasn’t sure if I did it right) and once today. Both times the regular DPD showed ~4ppm. Maybe even closer to 3.5ppm. From how I read it anyway. The FAS-DPD each time took the same 12...

This is my kinda stuff right here. I'll have to get cracking on something like this.

Thanks y'all. Good info. I think I'll just let the UV run and when the bulbs burn out, we'll make the call. I'm excited to go home and retest my CYA.

Do you recommend using the actual tested TA number for PoolMath from my kit or do you recommend adjusting that for the CYA levels? Also, any advice on Taylor CYA testing appreciated. I feel like there is a range between when I think the black dot isn't visible to when I really know it isn't...

Thanks @mknauss. Solid info link. I'm not sure if I'd purchase and install one of these now but since I have it already I think I'll be keeping it running. If it isn't removing FC, seems like it couldn't hurt.

Thank you @Bperry for your contribution. I'm much relieved to know about the safety of FC levels with CYA. This was something that was really bothering me and I feel relaxed about it now. I replied above on this but in short, from what I know/read about UV and on these filters (mine anyway)...

@PoolStored Thank you so much for taking the time to answer some of my questions. I truly appreciate it. Would the puck cholrinator not come in handy when on vacation? This touches on another question: What do y'all do when unable to attend to your pool for a few days? I've been exclusively...

And one more thing that has confused me, when I measure my TA with either of my 2 test kits I get closer to 140. Is that the value I should always use in PoolMath and should care about or do I convert that based on my CYA levels? Thanks again y’all. I hope to one day be on the other end of...

Oh and just one more tidbit, my pool is in full sun, all day.

Hello Y'all, First post and new to the forum and new to maintaining a pool. I have read a couple books and spent a decent amount of time pursuing various forums and blogs. I'd say at this stage I've gathered about equal parts knowledge and confusion over some maintenance methods. A quick...