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If you're replumbing, consider adding a heater bypass.

Be smart about puck usage. Don't let your CYA get much above 50.

No. TA of 50 is perfectly fine. I wouldn't add any baking soda. You'll have pH stability in the high 7s, which is also perfectly fine. If you added baking soda, you'd eventually need to add MA to counteract the pH rise, eventually bringing you right back to where you are now. Avoid getting...

Your pH and TA look great, and CYA 40 is fine for your climate. It's critical now to abide by the FC/CYA chart. For CYA 40, your target FC is 5-7. Aim towards 7 and consider 5 your FC floor. What kind of puck? (Trichlor or cal hypo?)

I have a similar problem where new links take me to my profile page (it's been this way for months). Only happens with Chrome. Firefox is fine.

Yes. 50-60 would be suitable for our climate. As noted above, pass an OCLT first before bumping up your CYA. Have you thought about a SWCG?

Probably not. It's critical that the rock is bigger than the hole in the bottom of the skimmer to prevent it from getting sucked into the pipe by accident. There's plenty of area on the sides of the skimmer basket, so it shouldn't affect operation.

PoolMath will generate an estimate of FC production. Go to "Effects of Adding" --> "Chemical Additions" --> "SWG" You can fine tune your output based on testing. With CYA 70, your FC should never be close to 3. Target range is 5-10, so think of 5 as your FC floor.

You have a DE filter, not a cartridge filter. That often suggests algae. How are you testing?

If you're doing some replumbing, I'd remove the tab feeder, install the SWCG, and install a heater bypass.

PoolMath is just a calculator. If you give it a target, it will tell you what it calculates is required to achieve it. Don't blindly follow its output.

Are you operating 24/7? When the pump is off, acidic water from the tab feeder will damage the heat exchanger of your MasterTemp.

If you're interested in borates, use granular boric acid since it's much easier to add.

pH in the high 7s is fine, even 8.0 if your CSI is OK. You can add a tiny amount of MA to get your pH back into the high 7s. TA of 50 is perfectly fine. Don't. You're correct. Don't add any baking soda. Add just a whisper of MA. Otherwise, you'll end up on a baking soda/MA seesaw. You're...

Are you still using that tab feeder? If so, it will slowly destroy your heater when you have the pump off. There should at least be a check valve to give you some protection. I'd suggest removing it and installing a SWCG.

I would consider 1.5 gallons to be on the safe side, plus another gallon when they're done swimming. 30 kids will deplete your FC rapidly.

A consistent background is key. To get good backlighting, hold the block in front of your computer monitor/tablet/phone with a blank white screen displayed. Also, try holding the block sideways or upside down. Sometimes that helps distinguish colors better. I also use two old hotel keycards to...

Did you perform/pass an OCLT? If not, you need to.

Your CYA is low, not high. Update your signature with your new and improved test kit.

Turn your SWCG off for a couple days and let the FC drift down, then retest and adjust your SWCG output.

The water needs to be better than just seeing the deep end. Is the water crystal clear? If not, maintain the SLAM. Here's the clarity you should see: https://www.troublefreepool.com/threads/how-clear-is-tfp-clear-lets-see-pics-only-please.207215/...

That's almost identical to the crack on my cell. https://www.troublefreepool.com/threads/ic60-freeze-damage-repairable.224605/ The patch is unbelievably strong and bonds nicely with the cell's PVC. Yes. Maybe 1" wide centered on the crack. Here's what my repair looks like today (it's not...

Might be setup as a spa though?

Hey neighbor, I'm surprised you need baking soda. Most non-trichlor pools will never need it. I'm a little NW of you and our fill water TA is 330. What do you have in Katy?

You're probably have "SPA" selected, which limits SWCG production to 20%. Turn that off and turn on the "POOL" circuit.

How are you testing? In our climate, that would be about right for peak summer chlorine demand. I typically see FC daily demand of 4-5. Get a SWCG. It's by far the cheapest, easiest, and most convenient way to chlorinate, especially for our climate.

How are you testing? How are you chlorinating? What's the TA and CH of your fill water? Where are you located in TX? Assuming you have a recommended kit, during the TA test are you continuing to add drops until there is no additional color change?

Confirm you used a 10 ml sample.

For the FC test, use a 10 ml sample so each drop is 0.5 FC. Saves time and reagents.