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Another cheaper option might be a Mec-o-Matic pump. Their tubes are a breeze to replace and a lot cheaper. I've bought them from a place called Novatech in the past but, I have no affiliation with them.

Cold water?

In my experience the worst thing I ever had to deal with was the one time my boss decided to dye our pools green for St Patty's day. Sure the label said it was 100% safe for plaster pools but what it didn't explain is how it attaches to the grids of a DE filter...and stays there....until the...

You might be able to check into a distributor like Univar but that might require you buy in larger quantities. I have bought 12% in gallon sized jugs from them before. Obviously the more you buy the cheaper it is. Best option is to buy it in 55 gallon drums but.... you don't want to store this...

The TR100 takes 150lbs of pea gravel and 450lbs of sand OR just 600lbs of sand and no pea gravel if you want. Honestly, I would just use good old fashioned filter sand and no gravel. Zeosand has always been more trouble than it's worth......for me anyway.

I find ORP controllers to be a constant battle. They're a fact of life for me but, anyone who thinks putting in an ORP to help automate their system is going to make their life easier has a rude awakening ahead of them. We've upgraded to ORP probes with gold tips and it helps a lot but it's...

Just an FYI..... The latest Code from the state of Texas clearly mandates a 0 ppm level of CYA for indoor pools and a 50 ppm max for outdoor commercial/public pools. Obviously this varies from state to state. My point being, everyone should follow the guidelines for your state or city above...

when you convert from Bromine, I'm pretty sure it's a must to drain the pool first. Maybe someone who's dealt with this can verify but, I've always been warned about going from Bromine to using chlorine....salt water system included.

Did not know that so, not plaster dissolving then for sure. I would probably super chlorinate and maybe leave your pump running overnight. See if that helps.

Assuming your water temp is about 85 F (just guessing) then your Saturation index is about -0.80 which is pretty far up on the scale as being aggressive (corrosive) I'm not aware of a low Calcium level causing cloudy water directly but I might focus on bringing it up some if possible. Your...

This cloudiness might not even be due to your chemistry, maybe it's filter related? None of the tests you've noted seem terribly out of line with what they should be. FC of 4.2 is more than high enough. I would have a look at the Calcium level if I had cloudiness that I couldn't explain. After...

I'm tossing my name in the hat for the Android version. I see that it's a work in progress! I'm able to use the web version on the phone though so all is not lost thankfully. The pool calculator is an awesome tool. =) You made it top of the list in Aquatics Magazine's list.

I've seen this on some of our pools with SWGs and I assumed it's just the chlorine gas being injected into the pool. I'm sure there's a much more technical reason for it but basically it's just your SWG doing it's job, unless it's clouding you pool up. Then it might be an air leak or something...

I started this out last night by adding 3 gallons of the liquid stabilizer to this pool as per the calculator. I'll be back at that location tomorrow and I'll see where I stand as far as CYA level goes. I may go and see if I can find a more comprehensive CYA test kit as this isn't something we...

Thanks Jason At the most I'm going to try and maintain a 30 CYA level. I had actually tried to follow some advice from chem geek one time and added CYA to another of my facilities to try his theory on lowering my CC levels...for whatever reason I could never reach the 30ppm level we were trying...

Yep, just use the same stuff you've always used. They make liquid or dry stabilizer. The liquid dissolves fast but costs more. The dry can take a couple of days to dissolve and get full benefit out of.

I've mentioned in a couple of posts on here that we've installed some pretty high end (read $$) UV systems in our indoor pools. The folks who install these systems swear that they don't eat free chlorine but all of my pool sense, and other indoor facility operators, tell me otherwise. Isn't UV...

I wonder what his local health department inspector says when he shows up, does a random water test and finds NO chlorine in the water? The funny part is the company who manufactures our UV systems made the same claims that once these systems are installed chlorine isn't needed but, a CPO...

Re: Homemade Acid or Chlorine Injection System This little valve might also offer a solution over the rain bird drip devices. It would give you more control over the amount of acid/chlorine it feeds and it's not actually in the flow so corrosion wouldn't be an issue. It's just a pinch valve to...

If you really want to trick up your ORP number then use some of the non-chlorine shock (MPS). It boosts the ORP level drastically while obviously not raising the CL level any. It could actually cause problems with the probes if used enough.

I can certainly throw in my 2 cents regarding zeosand as opposed to DE/Sand media. I run several indoor facilities and was sold on zeosand as being able to help lower our CC levels and to be honest I never noticed so much as .01 drop in CCs for the 5 years we've been using the zeosand. What I...

I happened to have a second Aquapure system that I borrowed the tri sensor out of when I was having the same error codes and issues you're having. For what it's worth the tri sensor apparently isn't the problem since it didn't fix anything for me. I also had a new cell that I tried out and no...

Another vote for the G4 here. I'm using one in a 55K gallon rectangle indoor pool and it 's able to clean the entire pool over night. Of course it's indoors so leaves aren't an issue for us. The thing I love about the Zodiacs the most, one moving part inside. 8)

I'm not aware of a test you could perform yourself but that's not to say one doesn't exist. I've had a private lab, ANAlab do some testing for me. They can test for just about anything you can dream up that could be in water but we just do routine coliform testing as sort of an insurance...

I couldn't help but notice your profile says your in SE Texas so that's probably why the pool guy thought you had metals in your water. Have you ever tested for metals? If you do have metals you might use one of the other Jacks products, like the pink one made for metal staining. Our Austin...

:lol: Relax, if it does happen it's liable to be years down the road. Honestly, like chem geek says you've always had salt in your pool to some degree. I'm always amazed at how little salt we even need in our pools to generate chlorine. It seems so minimal to me. Plus, if you do get a pin hole...

You might notice some corrosion but I have a pool with 2 Nautilus FNS SS DE filters with SWGs and it's been working fine for 3 years now. Our systems run 24/7/365 and I haven't seen anything more than a few surface areas of corrosion and those are generally from a slight o-ring leak during...

Or do as I do, buy 0870 and 0871 in 1/4lb and qt sizes respectively and refill your kits. A quart of R0871 costs me about $38. You can also find it in pint sizes too.

Care to elaborate why you feel so strongly against the Zodiac SWGs? I currently have 9 of these systems chlorinating 7 pools which run 24/7/365 and honestly have very little trouble with any of them aside from having to occasionally replace a cell that gets worn out. I guess if I did have a...

I haven't used the same brand filter as you but I deal with DE filters plenty and I'll just let you know I haven't replaced the tank o-ring on any of my filters in 3+ years. My filters are the SS Pentair FNS Plus which I'm able to climb up on a ladder and actually sit on the lid popping it into...