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Chipping out the plaster is a battle I just didn't have the energy for. It took me this long to get them to even replaster.

Hi all, it's been awhile...please tell me if my PB is full of it...very very long story short, after 2.5 years of nonsense from my PB, they finally have agreed to replaster my pool since EVERYONE (ok, except the plaster company owner, lol) they sent out here including an independent third party...

maybe lol...

I can't read the bucket...knew I should have taken a picture.

Allen, I wouldn't say that the pool ever felt smooth...it feels the same as always...a little like sandpaper...I just felt the section he tested and it doesn't feel any different than the rest of the pool.

I'm not positive if it was Jack's...that's what they called it but I didn't look closely at the bucket...I'll look at my cameras and see if I can zoom in. I didn't see an obvious reason for scale either but I'm not an expert. So Mark, do you lean towards this guy is full of crud? He wants to...

I need opinions from people I can trust...very long story short...99% of my pool is like a light blue color (Wet Edge Cadet Blue)...1% is a dark blue where the plaster people attempted to fix a bad plaster job. The pool was originally plastered Nov 2021 and they attempted their fix Jan 2022...

As mentioned by Newdude, my pool is 52 feet long. I would have preferred to go longer but the budget didn't allow. It is sufficient for me but I'm not a former D1 swimmer, lol. I am a triathlete so I only swim 2-3 days a week...I would expect you will be disappointed with anything less than...

oof, it's been awhile...just tested...60. (Just for laughs I looked at the pool store report...they have 150 :LOL:...no adjustments will be made based off of that...purely looked for entertainment value ;) )

Went to the pool store today to pick up Muriatic Acid. While I was there figured I would get "official" water testing done since it's been quite awhile (supposed to have "official" tests for any plaster claims is my understanding). So guy runs all the tests and then tells me I need to add 2.1...

Agree with the others on not having the bench all along the back.

I agree with HermanTX, larger filter is best. Ask the builder what their payment schedule is and I strongly recommend not signing with anyone that insists on final payment before the pool is done! My pool build started in April 2021, got water in Nov 2021...it's now Jan 2023 and I'm still...

Are there any things that didn't get done on your pool?

That's about what I paid for my aqua-cal heat pump/ chiller a year ago...curious to hear what other quotes you get.

I had a heat pump installed by Pinch a Penny...I had to have an electrician come run a line to the pad...that was at least an additional $1k...can't remember exactly and also had to pay extra for a bypass on the heat pump but I think that was only like $100.

We're supposed to get 10-15 inches of rain, after last night's rain, I only had like 2.5 inches before the water would be overflowing the pool and then only a few more inches before it's in my house (I don't know how many inches exactly) so I just drained some away from the house/pool now while...

I just went out and started draining water...ugh, so much perfectly good water and i've barely made a dent so far, lol...but my overflow wasn't keeping up with just the rain we got last night so I've got 3.5 more inches to go.

Based on how this has gone so far, I'd probably assume that you are taking control of the water on day 1, lol...might as well get your supplies...do you have one of the recommended tests kits? Get some liquid chlorine, CYA, muriatic acid...that's probably a good start.

I have mine at 75% for 16 hours which is probably a little high but I want to stay well above minimum, lol. 50% is probably a good starting point.

On a good note, your CYA should be down when you start SLAM...less chlorine needed :)

I am on a well too and my water was very green when first filled up but then it turned blue...can't remember exactly how long but less than a week IIRC.

@pjt It was the compressor capacitor...when he first said what was wrong, I only heard "capacitor" and I was thinking, "did this guy just tell me it was the flux capacitor?!" 🤣

yeah, it's def not 20 degrees more.

If you need to SLAM, you'll need to get the FC up to 24.

On TFTest Kits you can buy a CYA standard solution that is calibrated to 50ppm...so you can see what you are looking for...I just used the standard solution this past weekend and realized I was off...what I was calling 40 is really 60.