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Yeh it's a Jandy PDA system running it all. Not a huge fan to be honest so given the price I'd definitely go something more straightforward if/when I need to replace it. Good point, NewDude. Once the SLAM is done I'll stick it at 100% for a few days and see if it's generating anything at all...

I've not posted here in a long time but the last few days have given me something to write about so here I am again! I think the thing that i'm most grateful to this website for is that it's taught me essential life skills as it relates to pool maintenance. And those skills might be succinctly...

Noted a couple of other threads. For me the issue isn't that the logs might be stored in UTC, it's that the app is using UTC in the UI and thus "looks wrong". I don't remember this issue from previous seasons. I think it's a new issue in the last 9 months?

When I add a test result or add chemicals, the time shown by the app is GMT. I am in PDT and my phone shows the correct time. I do not have any other languages or locales configured. I am currently traveling to the UK and here there is a difference between GMT and BST. Thoughts?

Per title, really. We have a patch in the deep end where the rebar is sticking through the plaster into the pool, and tiles are starting to pop in other areas as the beam I believe isn't sealed well from the deck. So likely looking like it's time for a chip out and replaster and then figure out...

Wouldn't be surprised if that's the issue - your FC requirements over winter will drop to almost zero, so you probably genuinely do have very high FC - easily above 15 which is what your 30 drops got you to. I'd try again with a 5ml sample and then each drop will count as 1 FC instead of 0.5FC...

Which is the perfect level, by the way, for a SWCG pool, assuming your CYA is in the recommended range.

Yes they are the same footprint so can be swapped for each other. The cell itself is a different shape though so they are not interchangeable. You would be removing the body of your current Fusion Soft and replacing it with a AquaPure cell body (or generic replacement). I'm going to do exactly...

We only got about 2.5" over the whole weekend in San Jose :( Congrats on the significant refill!

Yes. A significant drain and refill is in your future. A good reason to wait though is to take advantage of "free water" falling from the sky in the next few months (which if you drain out old pool water to maintain the water level and/or allow it to mix properly and not overflow from the top...

Nothing to add to the thread but to say hi to @ccbill - Atascadero! Great small town, we have friends down there! :)

My strips went bad after just a couple months once open. Disappointing I know. Rebecca at TFTestkits sorted me out with credit to buy replacements.

My strips went bad after just a couple months once open. Disappointing I know. Rebecca at TFTestkits sorted me out with credit to buy replacements.

Testing doesn't happen in a closed bottle, it happens in an open test tube. Swirling while dropping is absolutely possible but if you're in TFP you're going to save enough on everything else that many people here treat themselves to the speedstir. It's available on Amazon cheaper. To your...

Tell us more about these "chemicals"... The water in the oceans is 3.8 billion years old! See above :) No such thing. Oh no! Please, before you go draining your pool unnecessarily, do as the above suggestions say and get a real test kit and then come back with your results. Your water is...

A properly configured SWG, with proper other pool chemistry will have no problem 'keeping up with rain'. Side note, leased pool equipment sounds like a nightmare. You aren't sharing your test results. Don't suppose you'd like to share your latest numbers from your own test kit?

Being that you're in AZ and are not using softened water, you should expect CH to rise naturally during the summer as the water evaporates off, and is replaced with water with more calcium in it (the calcium accumulates, does not evaporate with the old water). So to me the puzzle is that it...

Even in a pool your size though, it would take 7lb of calcium chloride to raise your CH by 100. You said "some" dust and you skimmed it off. You also say that your CH levels were dropping... How would that be happening? CH does not evaporate off. I think it's more likely to be testing...

Pentair Warrior SE. Add a smart plug to schedule cycles and jobs done. End of thread :) Oh, and buy from Marina Pool & Spa. Free shipping, no tax, best prices out there.

Visual inspection is good. When we moved here in July 2020 the cell looked like the picture (ha! I just realized in looking for a pic to compare that that picture is literally one of my cell from a previous thread!), but since cleaning it (5:1 MA) it has remained completely clear - funny how...

Amazing - thank you for knowing your way around their site so well!! Can't decide which of these is most appropriate? or Either way, thanks!

Yup read through that thread - lots of good advice in there and lots of weird issues that I recognize (even the 'Aquapure disappearing from the PDA but comes back if you power cycle pump' issue). Results of current tests are posted in my OP. It's seemingly intermittent so hard to chase right...

Do you mean 'the same electronically'? Totally understand that they are different form factor and the cells themselves are not compatible - I'm just wondering whether I can re-plumb onto the existing unions or if I'd need to do some PVC work too if I went down that route.

A polite bump as I would really appreciate some input on this, especially from resident expert @JamesW who knows these units inside and out - literally! :)

Agreed. The answer to your specific question though is yes, it takes more dry acid (by weight) than muriatic acid to lower pH by the same amount. So you shouldn't be doing a $/lb comparison. Looking at PoolMath, it looks like it's a 4:3 ratio of dry to liquid 31.45% MA. i.e. 33% more by weight...

Looks like they're $380 right now. And Jandy only gives you a warranty if you have a "pool professional" install it. The aftermarket ones give 2 years of meaningful warranty, but I will admit reviews are hit and miss depending where you look.

I'm about to go the other direction, I suspect. Just note that the Nature2 is a bit rarer and there aren't aftermarket parts (i.e. cheap compatible cells) for the Nature2. You will be forced to buy the Jandy part as while they're electrically compatible, they are different form factor.

Hey folks. Hope you're having a good long weekend! Just wanted to double check my logic here and tag on a couple of extra questions. Getting Error 120 on my SWG, although it is still generating ok for now. Visual inspection of cell looks good. The 3 prongs at the top look ok, middle one a...